Hydro, I'm not parting with this one!
I'll have to take some photos of the bolt tip this evening.
It would work for the dowel pin IF the dowel pin were short enough to fit it.
-
This community needs YOUR help today!
With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
We need more Supporting Members today.Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.
Why Join?
- Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
- Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
- Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!
This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:
Archive through March 27, 2012
- Thread starter rmcshane
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
I've got both sizes.
jbaker
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 10, 2008
- Messages
- 4,144
- displayname
- jeff l baker
Dan,
The drive pin on the motor side should be a VERY tight fit, I have done 4 of these recently. If your pin is loose enough that it slides in and out easy with a new OEM pin then the shaft is begining to wear.
It is not a big deal unless you have actaul movement of the pin, then your shaft hole is worn bad. I would of used Steves suggestion about hose clamp if not for a P.O. mod already done on this tractor.
My drive shaft is worn enough that I am thinking of tac welding my pin to the shaft
Steve I have not seen a grove in any drive pin and cant say that I see the taperedness to them, but, it would not take much to create friction.
The drive pin on the motor side should be a VERY tight fit, I have done 4 of these recently. If your pin is loose enough that it slides in and out easy with a new OEM pin then the shaft is begining to wear.
It is not a big deal unless you have actaul movement of the pin, then your shaft hole is worn bad. I would of used Steves suggestion about hose clamp if not for a P.O. mod already done on this tractor.
My drive shaft is worn enough that I am thinking of tac welding my pin to the shaft
Steve I have not seen a grove in any drive pin and cant say that I see the taperedness to them, but, it would not take much to create friction.
I have installed several of those pins and they are hardened steel about 1 millionth oversized from what I've experienced. If the hole in the driveshaft is not wallowed any the pin should fit very tight. I learned from this forum (Matt G. I think) to put the pin in the freezer and apply heat to the driveshaft. It works but mainly with the driveshaft out. It's just safer that way.
I was plowing today and the trunion blew. This is one I reworked last year. The 129 was working just fine and then...
It did get me back to the shop but that was real fun speeding up then slowing down. When I parked it and after I discovered what was wrong I looked and both trunion springs and end caps were on the ground beneath the tractor. How's that for luck.
Also, has this happened to anyone else after hard use of a hydro? It must have been slamming back and forth while plowing.
I'm just going to switch everything over to the 1650 in the morning. I wish I had a gear drive with hyd. or elect. lift. My back won't take the manual lift abuse.
I was plowing today and the trunion blew. This is one I reworked last year. The 129 was working just fine and then...
It did get me back to the shop but that was real fun speeding up then slowing down. When I parked it and after I discovered what was wrong I looked and both trunion springs and end caps were on the ground beneath the tractor. How's that for luck.
Also, has this happened to anyone else after hard use of a hydro? It must have been slamming back and forth while plowing.
I'm just going to switch everything over to the 1650 in the morning. I wish I had a gear drive with hyd. or elect. lift. My back won't take the manual lift abuse.
Just wanted to take a minute to thank all that offered up advice on my 682 repower to a magnum 18. I was so suprised an very relieved that so many took time out to give detailed help. I ended up going with the relay and it worked well. I now have pto power. Next. charging issues....it seems im not getting enough voltage from the stator at WOT. I have one from the kt17 will they interchange? Also if anyone knows wull the carb and intake from the kt17 interchange with the magnum without any restriction issues?
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,468
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Chad - you must'a got help from some of the twin-cycle guys on here. Most of us is just one-lungers. Someone like Mr. Plow or Matt will probably chime in. (this was just a lead in so I could address Wayne).
Wayne, oh Wayne, oh Wayne - what have ya gone and done now. I think I can see some welding remants on one part, but it looks like a clean break on the other. And another thing that surprises me is the paint ain't even hardly wore off. Something must'a not been quite right, but I think you got enough left there to go ahead and pull the FAQ again, and start over. You're gonna have to build it back to a little better mouse trap this time. Glad to know you got a few others around so you don't have to slow down.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and sometimes their springs and buttons and bow-tie trunions get twisted up)(please sing this to the tune of buttons and bows)
Wayne, oh Wayne, oh Wayne - what have ya gone and done now. I think I can see some welding remants on one part, but it looks like a clean break on the other. And another thing that surprises me is the paint ain't even hardly wore off. Something must'a not been quite right, but I think you got enough left there to go ahead and pull the FAQ again, and start over. You're gonna have to build it back to a little better mouse trap this time. Glad to know you got a few others around so you don't have to slow down.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and sometimes their springs and buttons and bow-tie trunions get twisted up)(please sing this to the tune of buttons and bows)
chad edward carey
Lets hope your charging issue is not missing magnets on the flywheel. I think the mag 18 had that problem. The magnets are aligned north south in alignment to giver a pulse for the stator to pick up , If some of the magnets are lost you will get a weak fire or low amperage.I would remove the fly wheel and have a look. my .02
Lets hope your charging issue is not missing magnets on the flywheel. I think the mag 18 had that problem. The magnets are aligned north south in alignment to giver a pulse for the stator to pick up , If some of the magnets are lost you will get a weak fire or low amperage.I would remove the fly wheel and have a look. my .02
Harry Bursell
Look`s like Wayne has a penetration issue on that weld job. Wayne I add washer between the springs and the caps , I found that the washers made that area have a tighter fit so the springs did there job and had no slop .
Ah freezing the pin does work, I did an engine job on a 1973 850 Norton MC a few years back and with the new piston wrist pins came instructions to put them in the freezer hrs before the install. They would slip right in when cold.I think you can empty an ABC type fire extinguisher on them if you have no freezer.btdt works great and my fire insurance refills them for free. They do have a shelf life and I will use them and get them refiled every few years .Later Don T
Wayne
I would give you my 149 or my 1512 to use if you closer .
Look`s like Wayne has a penetration issue on that weld job. Wayne I add washer between the springs and the caps , I found that the washers made that area have a tighter fit so the springs did there job and had no slop .
Ah freezing the pin does work, I did an engine job on a 1973 850 Norton MC a few years back and with the new piston wrist pins came instructions to put them in the freezer hrs before the install. They would slip right in when cold.I think you can empty an ABC type fire extinguisher on them if you have no freezer.btdt works great and my fire insurance refills them for free. They do have a shelf life and I will use them and get them refiled every few years .Later Don T
Wayne
I would give you my 149 or my 1512 to use if you closer .
chad edward carey
Here is some reading for you on your charge issue.
https://www.ihcubcadet.com/forum/messages/106/195003.html
Read this post by By Norm Bartee (Nbartee) on Tuesday, August 03, 2010 - 07:29 pm:
https://www.ihcubcadet.com/forum/messages/106/195094.html
Jim D does have some great info on this date above (1). a Lot of info can be found using the search function at the top of the page.
Here is some reading for you on your charge issue.
https://www.ihcubcadet.com/forum/messages/106/195003.html
Read this post by By Norm Bartee (Nbartee) on Tuesday, August 03, 2010 - 07:29 pm:
https://www.ihcubcadet.com/forum/messages/106/195094.html
Jim D does have some great info on this date above (1). a Lot of info can be found using the search function at the top of the page.
Don-
I haven't heard about that "trick" with the washers. Does it really help? I forgot to mention the small spring was broken on one end and sort of stuck on the pin post. I found the other pin on the tractor and I also found the piece that broke off of the trunion arm. In other words, everything is accounted for but I'd like to know if something would/could cause this. I might not be so lucky next time.
Hydro-
I'll weld something together tomorrow. I've been thinking and will probably make another "rectangle", cut, and weld. That would be the strongest way I believe. I haven't got time to split the tractor but I've gotten some experience working on the hydro linkages in the tight spots. I needed to find neutral for this tractor anyway. It was close but never just right but the hydro worked well and kept a constant speed. The engine is a slight smoker but runs well. I didn't know this last year when I removed the grenade gears. I also found an oil seal leaking which I just replaced. I bet it's the one where I found a very small nick in the crankshaft AFTER I had just popped the new seal in. A lesson was learned there.
I haven't heard about that "trick" with the washers. Does it really help? I forgot to mention the small spring was broken on one end and sort of stuck on the pin post. I found the other pin on the tractor and I also found the piece that broke off of the trunion arm. In other words, everything is accounted for but I'd like to know if something would/could cause this. I might not be so lucky next time.
Hydro-
I'll weld something together tomorrow. I've been thinking and will probably make another "rectangle", cut, and weld. That would be the strongest way I believe. I haven't got time to split the tractor but I've gotten some experience working on the hydro linkages in the tight spots. I needed to find neutral for this tractor anyway. It was close but never just right but the hydro worked well and kept a constant speed. The engine is a slight smoker but runs well. I didn't know this last year when I removed the grenade gears. I also found an oil seal leaking which I just replaced. I bet it's the one where I found a very small nick in the crankshaft AFTER I had just popped the new seal in. A lesson was learned there.
