Kenny, I should have been more clear. You can use any (thier called) mule drive for a narrow frame. Unless it's specific to the rototiller you may have to heat and straighten the mounts for the idler pulleys. The mule drive for a mower deck cants the pulleys to point them toward the center deck pulley. you would need to make them point straight to the rear gear box. The other thing is, if you look at the holes in the front of the mule drive you posted the right side is for an L shaped bolt that you'd use to adjust the belt tension, the holes on the left are for a spring that holds tension on the deck drive belt. To use it for a rototiller you'd put anouther bolt on that side, the spring won't let you tighten the long belt enough. Hope you get it running, again good luck.
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Archive through March 26, 2010
- Thread starter dreinhardt
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jott
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Steve, I have owned two 123s and have never known of anything like that or ever saw one. let us know what you find out.
I am putting a throwout bearing on a 104. got the whole tractor apart front, engine out etc but cant get the pins out. drove the one pin,driveshaft to trans, about 1/16" and thats it. was thinking about drilling or heat. can someone suggest the best way. Thanks, this is my first post and happy to be here. Bob
Steve, Josh: The photo of that air deflector plate was probably taken during R & D. IH manuals are famous for such nonsense because IH manuals were written during development long before production began and my guess is that it never made production because the Rear Frame Back Cover Panel performed the same function. That's also probably why you can't find it and no one has ever seen one...
Myron B
Myron B
JOSH O. - I agree, never seen anything like that air deflector on any CC. I have seen fan shrouds, cylindrical enclosures around the outside of the fan on the driveshaft to increase air flow, but I suspect they're NLA as well.
ROBERT W. - I strongly suspect the roll pin your trying to remove has deformed, or "crankshafted", or instead of being straight, is now shaped more like a lightning bolt.
I would suggest use plenty of your favorite spray lubricant, Kroil, PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, etc to soak the pin. If there's enough pin sticking out maybe use a small pair of ViceGrips and try to turn the pin 90 degrees in the hole. Since the pin has moved, heat won't help, and those pins are REALLY hard, brittle-hard, about twice as hard as your drill bits.
I strongly suggest not applying too much stress or force to the very back shaft, the drive pinion going into the reduction housing of the rearend. I broke the one on my 72 about 20 yrs ago. Support the shaft where your trying to remove the roll pin from securely, small pin punch, small hammer, light taps....plenty of lube, and since it's moving it should come out. Several people here have purchased "Roll Pin Roemoval punches" which stay centered on the pins better than a normal punch. Those really help.
ROBERT W. - I strongly suspect the roll pin your trying to remove has deformed, or "crankshafted", or instead of being straight, is now shaped more like a lightning bolt.
I would suggest use plenty of your favorite spray lubricant, Kroil, PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, etc to soak the pin. If there's enough pin sticking out maybe use a small pair of ViceGrips and try to turn the pin 90 degrees in the hole. Since the pin has moved, heat won't help, and those pins are REALLY hard, brittle-hard, about twice as hard as your drill bits.
I strongly suggest not applying too much stress or force to the very back shaft, the drive pinion going into the reduction housing of the rearend. I broke the one on my 72 about 20 yrs ago. Support the shaft where your trying to remove the roll pin from securely, small pin punch, small hammer, light taps....plenty of lube, and since it's moving it should come out. Several people here have purchased "Roll Pin Roemoval punches" which stay centered on the pins better than a normal punch. Those really help.
DONALD - I knew either You or Kraig would post a picture!
If I had known then what I know NOW, I wouldn't have broken the drive pinion 20 yrs ago in my 72. I'd have take the reduction housing cover off the transmission and put the whole thing in my vice. Then I could have used slightly LARGER hammers! I used to work with a retired Farmer who always commented when We were working on something, "Don't use Force, just get a BIGGER hammer!". I have some hammers I can barely pick up anymore!
If I had known then what I know NOW, I wouldn't have broken the drive pinion 20 yrs ago in my 72. I'd have take the reduction housing cover off the transmission and put the whole thing in my vice. Then I could have used slightly LARGER hammers! I used to work with a retired Farmer who always commented when We were working on something, "Don't use Force, just get a BIGGER hammer!". I have some hammers I can barely pick up anymore!
Speaking of unusual sheetmetal parts... Does that discharge chute that Bruce Ruhman posted in the classifieds fit the 42" and/or 48" decks? It looks like that's what it's for, but I've never seen one. Were they optional, or were they standard equipment that was quickly removed?
Jerry
Jerry
