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Archive through March 25, 2013

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Norm, Charlie and Brian - I remember back in my early Cub Cadet days, before the Internet and this Forum, I decided I had better changed the fluid and filter on my 1450. The 2 local Cub Cadet dealers close to me didn't have HyTran but claimed the CCC stuff at the time was equivalent to HyTran. I was a bit skeptical since the manual identified HyTran as complying with IH Spec B-6 (which at the time I didn't know what that spec was), but this Spec was not listed on the CCC quarts. So I mosied around the local NAPA store and they had a Valvoline Tractor Fluid which listed meeting IH Spec B-6. And the 5gal bucket was a heck of alot cheaper than the stuff from CCC in qts. So I used it in my 1450. I think I changed it every other year for about 4 years. I did change the filter every year since that's all the Operator Manual actually calls out. Then the Internet came along and I happened upon this Forum when it was just starting, and I made some claims that I thought the Valvoline was pretty good stuff, from a well recognized oil company. I made the unfortunate claim that I assumed IH had someone make the HyTran for them since they weren't in the oil business - only to be informed that yes IH was in the oil business, and that Viscosity Oil in Chicago was owned by IH. Viscosity developed the IH Spec B-6 and made the HyTran. Shortly after this I searched out some other Cub Cadet dealers, one in particular in CT that had also been and IH farm equipment dealer and they still carried the HyTran. Upon looking at the jug it said it was made by Viscosity Oil Company, Chicago, which apparently still existed at that time. The cost for the HyTran at this dealer was not to much more than the Valvoline so based on what I had learned I made the switch to the real stuff. I never had any problem with the Valvoline, but decided for the small additional price it was probably worth it to use the real stuff. I believe Viscosity Oil still exists but has changed ownership several times. I had understood it has some of the best oil reserves in the US right there in the Chicago area and still refines and produces HyTran, now call HyTran Plus, and it may have even been updated to a newer name but not sure if it's the same. And by the way, I don't recall exactly how to describe IH Spec B-6 but in general it means the oil will obsorb or hold 50% moisture by volume. I'd say it's best to make sure you are using a fluid you know meets this spec. By the way, there has been some discussion before about the early operator manuals identifying using 30W oil in the gear drive rearends or HyTran. I don't recommend straight oil in the gear drive rearends. I have since restored a few gear drive tractors, and when I pulled the drain plug on the rearend (yes the gear drives have a drain plug) the first fluid to come out was straight clear water. I got what appeared to be a about a quart of water from every gear drive tractor. There is alot of moisture build up and it just doesn't mix with the oil. So for me, it's HyTran in every IH CC rearend. I never saw this water in the Hydro rearends, but there is no drain plug to see it at first so I tend to think the HyTran keeps the water obsorbed within the fluid unless it sits for long extended periods of time.
 
Edward - makes sense now that you mention it insofar as the points lobe. So the wear, or flattish spots, are actually supposed to be there to open and close the points? How about the thin spring on the cam weights? Is it actually broken (right in the center of the cam) or is it actually supposed to be that way? Curious if anyone has a close up pic showing the weights, spring and points lobe? Won't pitch it yet. Btw - the rest of the engine looks good. Block needs a good cleaning up and will hopefully get by with just honing and new rings. VERY light scoring on cylinder wall and head was actually fairly clean. Drained the old oil yesterday and took the pan off - talk about nasty! At least no chunks of metal in the sludge. Thanks Edward.
 
Edward - as for the points lobe, is there any way to ensure I have it back on correctly (not 180 degree off) when I reinstall? Would rather not take it back apart if at all possible. Thanks
 
Harry B - Nice post on the HyTran and Valvoline. Can you comment on CCC/MTD "HyTran" vs IH HyTran - are they the same? Both are very expensive.

Around my neck of the woods, there just ain't any CaseIH dealers. However, there are New Holland dealers everywhere. In as much as CaseIH is now Case-New Holland, I'm thinking there is a "blue" New Holland packaged "Hytran" with a different name.

Bottom line is that if you want HyTran around where I live, it's the CCC stuff, maybe New Holland "HyTran" - if that exists, purchase from our fine sponsors (I would think shipping would be expensive?) or go with a different brand like TSC or Valvoline, etc.

Quick question - how often do you folks change your Hytran? More often in a hydro vs gear drive? I know we speak of changing the oil every X-number of years, but should we be looking at "years" or number of hours. Reason I say hours is that in my case (and others I'm sure) if you put 100 hours on one tractor, if you have 2 workers, that might be 50 hrs. So not sure if one is necessarily changing for wear and tear on the oil or water build-up over time in the oil - regardless of hours.
 
Very interesting write- up, Harry. Good info from the two Bill J's also.
So I wonder what the price difference is b/t New Holland & CC? Probably varies by local.
 
New to Cub world but it looks like fun! Please give direction if i am in the wrong area to post this.
Someone gave me what I believe is a 123. It is in fantastic shape but sadly it was painted blue. I am having trouble identifying the carburetor so I can get a rebuild kit for it. It is a Walborg WHG but when I match it to the various sites the float looks different. My float is not doughnut shaped. It's horseshoe shape if that makes sense I am assuming that I have the K301 and the carb is supposed to be a type 26? . The Kohler ID tag is unreadable. Any help is appreciated especially a part number for correct carb rebuild kit!
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David S., if the text is too small to read easily, hold the Control key (aka Ctrl key) down and use the scroll wheel on your mouse to increase or decrease the text size.
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Under Edit: Or like Charlie mentioned hold the control key and use the + or - key to make it bigger or smaller in place of the scroll wheel on the mouse.
 
Scott C., WELCOME!
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You're in the correct forum area.

Charlie,
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Charlie, is that blue factory? Sorry for ignorance lol. Thanks for welcome Kraig!
Boy am I going to wear this forum out as I get my CC running. Can you guys confirm mine is a 123? I have a bunch of questions for all of you. Also, if I can help in some small way I am more than willing.
 
Scott C.
Cubs are yeller and white from the factory.
Looks like a 123 to me, but that dang little pic is a pain, LOL

And yes Kraig, I did the CTL+ to make it bigger.
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Scott C - if the engine is a replacement "crate" engine, it would have been painted black and very well may have a Walboro carb on it. This is what I found with my 122.
 
Ok Charlie,

What did I do wrong last night? I posted something in sandbox about K241 and its deleted now? Where should I have posted it - here?

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Hi Bill J. Thank you for the reply. Engine is yellow (except for part painted blue lol). Carb is definitely a Walbro WHG. It is stamped. Previous owner said he rebuilt the engine himself. So what model of Walbro would fit on the K301? This will lead me to the right rebuild kit I believe.
 
Scott C.-

First of all, welcome. I'm sure you'll find this forum the best resource for any and all cub related situations.

Clean that Walbro up nicely, put in a new kit, then throw it in the trash. Then find yourself a Carter carb. There have been a few advertised here lately and they aren't that hard to find.

You'll better understand what I'm saying in due time.
 
Mike Patterson
Replace the float and your problem will go away . BTDT !
 
Scott, here's what the carb for a K301 should look like.

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