Archive through March 25, 2012

[dtanner]

Alan Cocconi

sitting on the tractor looking down the right valve would be the reverse valve. I would try at half speed on the throttle quick reverse and forward movements to see if it will break free. Those valves can be bought for around $50.00 each new .

 

[mhomrighausen]

Allen C. Donald T. has a very good suggestion using half throttle. Or jack the rear end up and take extra precautions to make sure the tractor won't come off it's jacks/blocks if you want to try any faster speed.

 

[nbartee]

Well, finally got the engine in my newly acquired 1450 together. Now to get some work done on the tractor.

To Late! I got him!

 

[mhomrighausen]

Norm B. Nice looking engine.

 

[bnolte]

I spent a busy weekend Cubbing, first thing on the list was to mow part of the yard Friday, 3 weeks earlier than I usually have to. The 129 got through it, and once the engine warmed up, it didn't smoke too bad, but the old girl has issues. Saturday morning was rainy, and I spent it replacing the ballast in one of my overhead light fixtures in the garage. Once I could see to work, I took a break and in the afternoon I set about removing the engine from the 125 to rebuild it for the 129, whose engine is on its last legs and its last rebuild. Removing the engine went fairly smoothly, the only surprise was that you can't remove the mule drive without removing the front casting. Since this had to be done anyway, I didn't mind so much, but switching from a plow or snowthrower back to the mower deck would be a chore. Once the motor was out and on the engine stand, I blew out debris that collected in the PTO setscrew holes, and gave each one a shot of PB Blaster before calling it a night.

This morning I was back at it, and after spending time doing general garage cleanup and cleaning up the workbench before I started tearing down the engine. I was pleasantly surprised that the PTO came off fairly easily, but I couldn't say that about the flywheeel. As usual, the PTO bearing needed a little help from a gear puller, I quickly fabricated a support for the gear puller jaws out of a scrap piece of bar stock with my angle grinder and cutter blade. The rest of the engine came apart without too much trouble, and I was happy that both the crankshaft and camshaft appeared to be in good shape (the journals miked at less than a half a thousandth under), and the main bearings were smooth.

The parts all still need to be cleaned up, but the small stuff is safe in ziploc bags and sorted by type, the larger stuff is sitting in baskets waiting to get cleaned up. After a bath with some Simple Green and a garden hose, I should have the block ready to go to the machine shop by Tuesday.

 

[mgwin]

Norm,

You forgot to hit enter between the pics! Better hurry and edit that before Charlie gets ya!

 

[cwestfall]

picked this up today while out driving

 

[kmcconaughey]

Bruce,

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

...the only surprise was that you can't remove the mule drive without removing the front casting.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

By "front casting" do you mean the grill frame? If so, you can remove the mule drive, or snowthrower, or blade sub-frame without having to remove the grill. Unless I've been doing something wrong for over 40 years.

 

[bnolte]

Kraig,
It didn't make sense, one thing I think I did wrong was to try to drop the mule drive with the mower still attached. I had the mower off before and even repaired bent lift arms a couple of years ago on the same tractor. My memory ain't what it used to be.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Bruce, ah! That would do it. Remove the mower deck first the belt then pull the hairpin clips holding the rear of the deck hanger then remove the mule drive. Whole procedure only takes a few minutes.

 

[tzingleman]

Quick question Cub Cadet gurus...

After I shut down the engine, is the flywheel supposed to keep spinning for almost 30 seconds, or is there something wrong?

Been working my IHS CD pretty hard hauling dirt, and I don't want to ignore something that might be a problem.

Also, how big of a load is too much on the power train? When hauling big loads I always keep it in 1st with the RPM's as low as they can be while keeping the machine feeling happy. I figure I've been hauling 400 lbs at a time + 200 lbs for me.

Oh, and it's a 1968 124.

Thanks guys! You helped me get her up and running, and I want to keep her that way.

 

[jbaker]

Tim 30 seconds is a long time a very long time for a engine to keep spining

as for the weight it will take more than 400 pounds, a whole lot more to hurt it

 

[tzingleman]

Thanks, Jeff.

To be clear, it's not the entire engine that's spinning. There is no compression like there would be if I was trying to crank it up.

There's just something that keeps spinning after I kill the engine, but the engine itself is not turning over.

 

[dkirk]

Gentlemen,

Thanks to all that contributed great suggestions and comments to my worn lift arm - rockshaft problem. I decided to weld up the roll pin holes in the LH lift arm and re-drill them. My friend who has a milling machine and TIG welder, offered his services - obviously the right equipment for such a job. We began by welded both roll pin holes up solid in the offending arm. Then, C-clamping both arms together back-to-back with the shaft used for aligning the rockshaft bores, the shaft was then removed and both arms secured in the milling machine vise. Alignment was accomplished using a 5/16 drill bit in the mill collet, then rotating the arm assembly until the bit freely passed through the roll pin holes in the RH arm (the good arm). Measuring the offset from outside of arm to the hole, we then duplicated the offset on the LH arm, thus aligning exactly where the new hole would be drilled. Using a 5/16 diameter end mill, we then bored a new roll pin hole in the welded up locations - worked very nicely.

With everything cleaned and oiled, assembly went very easily. New spiroll pins were used and went in without protest using the air impact hammer and assembly grease. Arms are now tight and snug to the shaft and are exactly in alignment. Attached the deck and with a few minor hanger adjustments, it's now level and lifts without tilting.

Thanks again guys - your suggestions and encouragement greatly appreciated! No more saw-tooth lawn for this Cub driver.

Dave

 

[jbaker]

Tim from what you say I am thinking your flywheel screen has broke loose from its 4 little screws and is spinning after shut down.

 

[proessler]

Way to go Dave!!

 

[ldoe]

Jeremiah, Edward & Donald,
Thanks for taking the time to research my valve seat issue and responding with great advice. Based on your help I will try simply replacing the guide and re-hone the seat and valve. We'll see where that get's us. I'll let you know. Thanks very much.

 

[dross]

Tim, I'd be finding out whats loose, cause whatever it is, aint good. Good luck.

 

[jbaker]

has anyone had to fill and redrill the hole in a hydraulic lift lever on a 149? this is where the lever connects with the control valve

The hole on mine is wallowed out. My first thought was to redrill right next to it or should I try to fill the hole with something like Kentucks favorite jbweld and redrill it

 

[tzingleman]

Jeff, I'll try to get a video of the issue up as soon as I can.

The flywheel screen seems to be intact, is it possible that the flywheel is not attached to the shaft anymore and is gradually spinning up from friction and then taking a while to stop spinning after killing the engine?