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Archive through March 24, 2016
- Thread starter sblunier
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
I picked up an IH radio off greed pay a few years ago
Took it apart last year, sandblasted the outer shell ,put some paint on it ,looks just like the one we had on our 806.
oh, ya first thing I did when I got it was hooked it up to a battery, and it WORKED...way cool.
Planning on mounting it on my plow tractor some day, but I'll build a bracket off the fender or some place else, the drilling holes and putting it on the hood never really turned me on.
Took it apart last year, sandblasted the outer shell ,put some paint on it ,looks just like the one we had on our 806.
oh, ya first thing I did when I got it was hooked it up to a battery, and it WORKED...way cool.
Planning on mounting it on my plow tractor some day, but I'll build a bracket off the fender or some place else, the drilling holes and putting it on the hood never really turned me on.
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wsdrake
Well-known member
Hi everyone,
I am considering purchasing a #2 Tiller for my 108. I know that I will need the 3-point assembly also, but my question is about the mule drive. Will the mule drive for my mower deck work for the tiller, or will I have to pick that up as well? Sorry if this is a stupid question- chalk it up too inexperience. Thanks!
I am considering purchasing a #2 Tiller for my 108. I know that I will need the 3-point assembly also, but my question is about the mule drive. Will the mule drive for my mower deck work for the tiller, or will I have to pick that up as well? Sorry if this is a stupid question- chalk it up too inexperience. Thanks!
wsdrake
Well-known member
Thanks Steve!
glippert
Well-known member
Since it's off-topic Good Friday, thought I'd mention to Hydro, I drove through Yankton yesterday on my way to spend the weekend with kids & grandkids. I always listen to WNAX when we make that trip. Less music these days and more talk radio, but they carry the MN Twins & Vikings games. Their strong signal covers my entire trip.
Billy D.
The IH/CC OEM pulleys are more than likely the same tiller or mower. I don't see a greater load on them from the tiller, the tension spring dampens that load.
Like Steve said the angle of the pulley bracket is the only issue.
Straight Mule Drive Pulleys
Jim
The IH/CC OEM pulleys are more than likely the same tiller or mower. I don't see a greater load on them from the tiller, the tension spring dampens that load.
Like Steve said the angle of the pulley bracket is the only issue.
Straight Mule Drive Pulleys
Jim
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Good day all. I was over at my cabin last weekend, and while cleaning up stuff from the last wind storm I wondered about a front mounted brush rake to put on the 123. Has anyone ever seen or made one of these on a GT sized machine?
Ron R. Schmitt (Rrschmitt) on Thursday, June 22, 2006 - 12:47 pm:
Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Ron R. Schmitt (Rrschmitt) on Thursday, June 22, 2006 - 12:47 pm:
Ray L,
Yes, you should use the solid steel idler pulleys w/ball bearings on your mule drive when operating 1, 1A, 2 or 2B tiller on all Cub Cadets prior to the 82 series. The solid steel pulleys are needed in order to maintain adequate tension on the long 3/8" wide drive belt back to the gearbox. The stamped sheet pulleys won't hold up very long under the higher tension loads and loading from the tiller. The solid pulleys will work fine for mower operation as well assuming you have a 38", 42" or 48" mower deck with center mower drive pulley on center with the CC. You will need a separate mule drive for tiller operation if you have 44" or 50" mower deck as the idler arms on the mule drive are at an angle for the off-center mower drive pulley. The 82 series went to the 5/8" wide "B" belt and a heavier duty mule drive so the larger stamped sheet pulleys on those will work fine for tiller operations but you may still need a separate mule drive depending upon what mower deck you have due to the issue noted above.
so this tells me there are two types of pulleys and one is just a pass at best. I love search function .
Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Ron R. Schmitt (Rrschmitt) on Thursday, June 22, 2006 - 12:47 pm:
Ray L,
Yes, you should use the solid steel idler pulleys w/ball bearings on your mule drive when operating 1, 1A, 2 or 2B tiller on all Cub Cadets prior to the 82 series. The solid steel pulleys are needed in order to maintain adequate tension on the long 3/8" wide drive belt back to the gearbox. The stamped sheet pulleys won't hold up very long under the higher tension loads and loading from the tiller. The solid pulleys will work fine for mower operation as well assuming you have a 38", 42" or 48" mower deck with center mower drive pulley on center with the CC. You will need a separate mule drive for tiller operation if you have 44" or 50" mower deck as the idler arms on the mule drive are at an angle for the off-center mower drive pulley. The 82 series went to the 5/8" wide "B" belt and a heavier duty mule drive so the larger stamped sheet pulleys on those will work fine for tiller operations but you may still need a separate mule drive depending upon what mower deck you have due to the issue noted above.
so this tells me there are two types of pulleys and one is just a pass at best. I love search function .
hydroharry
Well-known member
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- Harry Bursell
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Jim/Billy-
Note that the tensioner spring in the mule drive is replaced with another tensioner bolt when using it for a tiller. That belt does have to be a bit tighter since there is no longer a spring to take up slack as the belt heats up and lengthens.
Also note that if using a 44/50" deck mule drive, you'll have to straighten the pulley arms so that the pulleys line up with the tiller pulley. Best to get an extra mule drive for this.
Note that the tensioner spring in the mule drive is replaced with another tensioner bolt when using it for a tiller. That belt does have to be a bit tighter since there is no longer a spring to take up slack as the belt heats up and lengthens.
Also note that if using a 44/50" deck mule drive, you'll have to straighten the pulley arms so that the pulleys line up with the tiller pulley. Best to get an extra mule drive for this.
Matt,
If I had looked more closely at the picture I posted earlier, I would have seen the two bolts and no coil spring.
My Grandma had a tiller back in 70's on her 126, I helped my dad do the winter, spring & summer swaps of attachments. I guess I did not see the difference in the mule drives when I was 10 (+/- 5 yrs). Just thought it was convenient to have two mules for sister.......
Jim
If I had looked more closely at the picture I posted earlier, I would have seen the two bolts and no coil spring.
My Grandma had a tiller back in 70's on her 126, I helped my dad do the winter, spring & summer swaps of attachments. I guess I did not see the difference in the mule drives when I was 10 (+/- 5 yrs). Just thought it was convenient to have two mules for sister.......
Jim
Don T.
So if I understand, the long belt is able to deform a regular IH mower pulley that is welded in the radial center of the V and results in belt slippage or such? I ask as it has been many years since working on the belt drive tillers, I seem to forget more than I remember. Not that I was that interested at age 15, LOL.
Doug A.
https://www.ihcubcadet.com/forum/messages/106/51246.html?1170874809
So if I understand, the long belt is able to deform a regular IH mower pulley that is welded in the radial center of the V and results in belt slippage or such? I ask as it has been many years since working on the belt drive tillers, I seem to forget more than I remember. Not that I was that interested at age 15, LOL.
Doug A.
https://www.ihcubcadet.com/forum/messages/106/51246.html?1170874809
This may help explain the steering wheel.
Not sure about this. Was there a production change somewhere along the line here?
Notice the difference in the cups and ball retainers in the 1st picture,from a 126. balls and retainers look new, a recent rebuild maybe? The 2nd is from a parts 125. the cups in it are like all the rest I have dis-assembled but are mashed and distorted and the retainers are shot as well.
So far, I have 2 units taken apart and not enough parts to make one good one!
Not sure about this. Was there a production change somewhere along the line here?
Notice the difference in the cups and ball retainers in the 1st picture,from a 126. balls and retainers look new, a recent rebuild maybe? The 2nd is from a parts 125. the cups in it are like all the rest I have dis-assembled but are mashed and distorted and the retainers are shot as well.
So far, I have 2 units taken apart and not enough parts to make one good one!
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wsdrake
Well-known member
Thank you everyone for your replies. This information is VERY useful. I checked today, and I have a 44" deck, so it appears I will have too get a mule drive as well.
Also, how paramount is a creeper when running the tiller? My 108 doesn't have one, and its importance may dictate my decision here. Thanks!
Also, how paramount is a creeper when running the tiller? My 108 doesn't have one, and its importance may dictate my decision here. Thanks!
