Archive through March 23, 2012

[jchamberlin]

Loren -- Two seconds on Google pulled up the following link with an illustration of a "special puller" Inserting Valve Inserts

The text goes on to explain that in the absence of aforementioned "special puller" ,

<font size="+2">However, if a puller is not available,
you can punch mark each side of the insert and
then drill almost through. After drilling, take
a hammer and chisel and break the insert into
halves for easy removal.</font>

The text goes on to explain,

<font size="+2">Before installing a new insert, chill it
for 15 minutes in dry ice or by any other chilling
method. Chilling shrinks the insert so that it
will fit in place. You may then drive it in place
and grind the seat.</font>

The text begins be explaining that the only reason to perform this repair is if the original insert is too far gone to re-grind.

Don -- The valve guides can be driven out (I've done it), but I've never attempted to remove the seat as Loren wants to do. I haven't been into a Kohler yet, but starting in 1973 or so American car makers started using valve seat inserts because of the switch to unleaded gasoline (or petrol for the folks in the UK; I don't know what they call it in Canada). The insert is made of harder material than the block.

Edit: The quoted text was supposed to be smaller, but it came up larger and I kinda liked it so I left it.

Also, I'm not sure what your skill level is, Loren, but after my experience with press-fitting a camshaft gear on a Chevy truck, I would take it to someone who has experience doing this sort of thing.

My two-cents worth

 

[cledford]

Asking for help to convert 1450/K321 from Walbro to #30 Carter…

My 1450 (purchased used 2 season ago and used last season as primary mower) has been acting erratic when mowing on incline – it seems to run ok uphill or on the flat, but then seems to want to stall when turning and heading back down the same grade. I’m guessing it is the Walbro #52 carb on it – which doesn’t seem to garner much in the way of reviews. Once it starts to stall, if I can get the tractor leveled out, it’ll continue to run or at least restart. NOTE: This is not due to bad gas - this behavior started last season when running clean fuel through the tractor. Since I never cleaned the carb - I'm just guessing over the years it is has collected some junk in it.

I’ve been able to scavenge a Carter #30 from a 1650/K341 donor and, assuming the carb is the issue, would like to clean-up/rebuild the Carter #30 and replace the Walbro.

I wanted to ask for help on determining what carburetor refurb parts (or kit) to purchase for the Carter, and any other linkage, gaskets, throttle, governor or parts required to move from the Walbro to the #30.

Would anyone have any advice? Spring has sprung around here (Northern VA) and the tractor needs to be running by this upcoming weekend – the grass could already stand to be mowed. (Weird spring!) I plan to use this link:

http://mgonitzke.net16.net/tools/carb_rebuild.pdf

(Courtesy of Matt Gonitzke) to clean and rebuild the carb. I’m just hoping that if there are any things I need to be aware of that someone might know and share them

I can (in the way of contributing) say that I’ve called Tiny Tach and they can provide an RMP tach for setting the governor – they just have to build them as they state that due to issues with “noise” (related to the points on the Kohler K series) their current tachs will not provide an accurate reading. If you want one made you have to call and request the “4K” unit.

Thanks for any advice!

-Calvin

 

[elincoln]

The kokler engines have stellite valve seats, they are also installed into old car cylinder heads to run unleaded gas. They are very hard,unless someone has ruined them, should not need to be replaced.

 

[jchamberlin]

Calvin-- You can can purchase everything you need to rebuild the carburetor from our sponsors. Matt's instructions are a good supplement to the manual or the instructions that come with the throttle shaft replacement kit (the kit has torque values for the bowl nut which I can't find in any of the manuals).

I recommend you purchase a float, even if yours appears to be working correctly and passes a "sink test" because there are two stops on it, one to make sure the gas stays below a certain level in the bowl, and another to make sure the float doesn't hit the bottom of the bowl.

On a recent rebuild (my first) I noticed that the float was riding on the bottom of the bowl, but I didn't discover there was a second stop until I was putting it all back together. The second stop was missing entirely from my float, and its absence is NOT obvious unless you know what to look for. I had to wait for a second parts order to finish the job. I just want to spare you that aggravation.

If you're not sure about the condition of your float, you could try following the adjustment instructions in the manual during dis-assembly (Matt does not include them on his site) to make sure you can adjust the float for both stops; if your float is fine, you don't have to order another. Again, I just want to spare you the aggravation I experienced.

Also, I don't recommend trying to remove the main jet, it really isn't necessary, and if/when the screwdriver slips, it just ruins the slot. (It is very tempting though, and the previous owner attempted it, I tried too, but it just would not move.)

Under Edit: Loren --After reviewing the site a bit more, the valve seat replacement instructions appear to come from a US Navy manual, in the public domain no doubt, which the site is only too willing to charge you a fee to download.

 

[jchamberlin]

Calvin-- An after-thought: I think that the reason for the "bottom stop" may be to keep the needle valve from getting hung-up. I was having two problems with my Carter Model# 30 before I rebuilt it: first, it would consistently drain my tank of gas while sitting, and second, the needle valve stuck closed so that the motor refused to run on anything but starting fluid (hence, the rebuild). Both issues can be attributed to problems with the needle valve --the float "floated" fine.

The original design of the "bottom stop" must have been recognized as issue by Carter/Kohler, because it has been re-designed in its current release.

By-the-way, the "top stop" is <<11/64" +/- 1/32" from the machined surface>> but I have difficulty determining which of the two surfaces available have been machined. As Matt points out, the measurement doesn't have to be all that precise, as long as you're within a 1/16 of an inch of 3/16" you should be OK.

The torque value for the bowl nut is between 50 and 60 inch-lbs according to the Throttle Valve Repair Kit instructions, which also includes detailed instructions for the float adjustment.

 

[sblunier]

If you must remove the main jet for any reason, use a HOLLOW GROUND screwdriver that fits the slot PERFECTLY. The hollow ground screwdriver (usually found as a bit, or labeled "gunsmith screwdriver") will not slip out of the slot or "cam-up" like a std screwdriver will.

PB Blaster never hurt here either....

 

[mgonitzke]

And to add to that, I have never found any reason to remove that jet in any of the couple dozen carbs I've rebuilt. Unless it is completely mangled, leave it be.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Norm B. Try checking out Google Search. You need what is called an automotive weather pack electricl connector. BING SEARCH ENGINE also has lots of suppliers. Too many to sift through right now though. I'll try later on to find your specific ones.

 

[acocconi]

Hi Folks,

It's been a while since I've posted anything - you guys are just too knowledgeable - and quick! I got my beloved Model 107 running yesterday for the first time this year. Started right up after sitting since late November. So, I hop on and pull it into reverse...nothing. push the selector forward - that works. Bottom line: forward works; reverse doesn't. I checked the FAQ and the service manual. Nothing pops out. Any ideas on what could cause this? Recommendations on how to trouble-shoot this? Thanks, Al C.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Alan C. Offhand I'd try the check valves for one that is stuck/sticking. Question for you. By chance did you leave the tractor sit all winter with the release lever holding those valves down? If so that would more than likely be what's causing your problem. With the tractor shut off you may try and reach up into the area and see if you can feel if one of the buttons on the relief valve is stuck down. If so then try and shoot some PB Blaster on the sticking culprit... Let the tractor sit a little couple of minutes before starting and then try a couple of quick forward/reverse moves with your hydro lever.... BE CAREFUL DOING THIS MOVE!!!