Archive through March 22, 2007

[lbuttke]

Thanks for the tips on storing the cubs.
I'll drain the gas from the system and pull the plug and spray some WD40 into the carb while turning the motor over a few times.
Also pick up some tarps from the local hardware store to toss over them.

One more question though.
What do you all think of filling the gas tanks with used motor oil to help keep them from rusting on the inside?
Other than maybe a stray metal fileling or two, but I would think a good flushing of the tank befor reuse would flush any out of the tank.

Charlie,
I am not home most week night, but my attack deer are always on the watch so you best be careful when sneaking around out back

 

[kweaver]

DON'T Ever put oil in the cylinders. The ACIDS in the oil will eat up the aluminum piston!! I lost a new set of Crane forged aluminum needle bearing roller rocker arms for a SB Chevy that way once!!

... and it was with NEW oil.

This will take care of the "Attack Deer"

 

[lbuttke]

BUT KEN!
If'n I caint use da big gun fer shooten dem dare deer, what cans I bea use'n. Da pea shooter?

Oh by the way, thanks for the tip on not useing oil in the cylinder. guess I will just spray the carb good with WD-40 instead.

 

[rbedell]

Carol D:

I have a Installation Manual being sent to your Email address.

 

[tcbusch]

Lonny,
You can buy engine fogger for your positions. I fog the snowmobile for the summer and the boat for the winter. It comes in a spray can.

 

[digger]

Terry,
You should have said something, I would have let ya fog your snow sled for free! LOL
And mine's refillable! And comes with instructions.

 

[mbounds]

Lonny B: Do NOT spray WD-40 in the carb for storage!!!! Take the cap from a can of WD-40 and spray about a 1/4 inch of WD-40 fluid in it and set it on a shelf for about a week. When the carrier dries up and you discover the greenish "concrete" that remains, you'll know what you were putting into your carb. You'll have the main jet needle plugged & cemented up so tight you'll never get it clean again...That's why you NEVER use it in clocks, locks, and guns!! WD-40 has its uses but these are not amongst them....Aside from Cub Cadets, I'm also a clock repairer. NO WD-40 in my shop !!!

Myron B
CCSupplyRoom

 

[kmcconaughey]

Paul B, thank you for the <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> production serial number info! I forgot about the monthly production numbers, my bad. Good to see you post again.

Matt G., good catch on the fenders! I think that is a 100 that Bryan M. used to have.

Bryan, is that your old 100? If so, any info on the fenders?

 

[dfrisk]

KRAIG, PAUL B. - In the summer of '81 I was in the market for a new K241 engine for one of Dad's Cub Cadets. Co-worker of Mine at FARMALL gave Me the name of a person in Purchasing at LVL.. I called Her and got the name & number of the salesman who called on them from KOHLER. She said they were busy loading up all the CC parts and shipping them to CCC. She didn't say for sure but I got the impression there were something like 5-6 semi-truck loads of parts of all types from castings, forgings, stampings, wire harnesses, lights, etc.
BTW....the new K241 assembled in Kohler's model shop to CC spec's cost Me $300 plus a very small gratuity.

 

[tcbusch]

I was thinking its more like this.

I also noticed I said "You can buy engine fogger for your positions."

I think I meant "You can buy engine fogger for your pistons."

Trying to keep this family friendly.

 

[pbell]

Denny
From talking to Harold Schramm before he passed away, and according to Hank Will's book Cub Cadet tThe First 45 Years, there were over 100 semi loads of Cub Cadet parts, tooling, fixtures, ect, shipped from Louisville, and about the same from the Memphis plant (lawn tractors, riders etc). Harold was the engineer that designed the drive system in the CC Original and a large part of the design of the 70/100, and was basically in charge of that move.

 

[tgeirnaeirt]

I am thinking of buying a snow removal attachment for my IH 782. What do you guys suggest? Have been trying to decide which way to go a thrower or blade? Which do you think is more effective?? The QA type throwers or the front blade attachment? I have a large concrete drive way that I am way tired of shoveling. Thanks for your thoughts in advance. Terry

 

[kmcconaughey]

Terry G., each have their benefits and disadvantages. I prefer to use a snowthrower myself mainly because it is what I grew up with. Here are some disadvantages to a snowthrower. It is more complex to maintain and repair, it is bigger to store heavier to lift if you have a manual lift and to move about when it is not mounted onto the tractor. If the tractor is a gear drive (i'm speaking to anyone here as I know that the 782 is a hydro) the tractor would require a creeper drive to get as close to the optimal speed to feed the thrower, too slow or too fast not good. It's advantage is that it doesn't leave mountains of snow built up that can cause you to run out of room for places to put the snow. I believe that if you have a lot of snow it is faster to use the snowthrower to remove it. Now on to the snow blade. A blade is simple to maintain, reasonably light to move about when not mounted, lighter to lift with a manual lift. It can be faster to use if you only have a few inches of snow to remove. It's disadvantage is that you have to plan ahead at the start of the snow removal season to allow enough room to push up mountains of snow. This could mean that you have to push it into your lawn risking damage to the lawn. You may have to drive faster "Blunier ramming speed"&#153; style, (sorry old forum humor) to move snow which could be dangerous if you hit an unmovable object. I'm sure there are more but I'll leave those for the other guys.

 

[lbuttke]

Charlie,
A couple weeks back I mentioned that the 129 I recently picked up and ahd little to no reverse and that I am planning on replacing the filter and oil with new hy-tran.
Well today I went out to move it to the shed to get started on it and wouldnt you know it, the reverse is working fine now that the weather has warmed up. So I still going to change the filter and oil just to be on the safe side.

 

[lbuttke]

Aslo I have anothe rquestion to ask.
Seeing how the head gasket appears to be leaking on the 129, I decided to see if the head bolts where tight.
NOPE! all but one was loose, so my question is this.
Would retorcking the head bolts do any good or should I just pull the head and replace the gasket. Along with de-carboning the head & piston if needed. ( like they would not need de-carboning)

 

[bmavian]

I have a cub cadet 128 with a Kohler K301 engine.It was running fine and suddenly started to "hiss".It still runs well and has full power but has this loud hissing or scraping sound. Any ideas of where to look ?

 

[bcorn]

Terry: Buy both!! Here in Indiana sometimes both really come in handy.

Pops

 

[kide]

Bob:
Tell some really bad jokes around the 128?? (didn't buy a green tractor and set in the same barn by any chance??) Maybe you got caught looking at a hydro ??

Really - is it possible that something is dragging on one of the rotating parts - I've had a stick get caught under the hood and drag on the S/G belt. Also, possibly part of your clutch release mechanism has come apart. ( I dunno, I'm a hydro guy, so that's a little out of my league..)

 

[kweaver]

Lonny - My 129 is the same way. I'd remove the head and clean it and replace the head gasket. Chances are that it has enough carbon build up under the head in the gasket area that it wouldn't seal anyway. The gasket may be burnt bad too with the flame escaping past it.

And on the hydro, I'd bet it has a lot of sludge from moisture in it.

 

[lbuttke]

Anthony,
Here are the photos I took of the tiller decal I have.

Is this the decal you are looking for?
If so I also posted some more photos with a ruler laying on the decal for size reference.