Archive through March 21, 2015

[lpalma]

you mutha trucka

should look like this David.
This is on a 127,

 

[hydroharry]

Lewis Do-Da - hey that's what I thought. There are 4 bolts and 5 studs. Makes retorquing the head a pain - but ya gotta do what ya gotta do.

Here's what it looks like with the head removed and the studs still in place.
(And Lewis - don't ask me how I got a pic of your engine with the head removed)

 

[hydroharry]

Dave - so you need 5 studs now with and 10 thick washers and 10 nuts and 5 of those spacers for the studs.

You'll want to make sure you button just the head up and run the engine without the tin cover or the gas tank mount, so you'll be able to re-torque the bolts. It will take a little riggin it up so you can get gas and the muffler to it. I recommend running it 20-30 min. then let it cool 45-60 min then re-torque those bolts/nuts.

 

[dschwandt]

CRAP!! Looks like I got all the wrong stuff then!
And, my spacers are aluminum.
Odd, it don't say nothing about this in the parts lookup, it calls for 3 bolts 2.5" and 6 bolts 2.25"

 

[hydroharry]

Dave - well I think the studs should be all the same. I've never seen aluminum spacers before either. I'd just try to round up some of the original steel used ones. Another thing, I noticed you tin cover has a hole exposing the bolt directly in line with the plug and carb which is nice. You might want to consider enlarging the hold for the bolt closest to the S/G side. I don't know why it has just that little hole. That way you could at least have the tin cover on when you torque and re-torque.

 

[bcarl]

Hi everyone,

Had a recent problem with my 147 that turned out to be a simple fix. While I was pushing the last snow from the driveway, the engine started surging and then would die. It would then start right up and run at idle. But after running awhile it would begin surging again.

I got it back to the garage and proceeded to determine the problem. It seemed to me that the surging would start whenever the engine began to heat up. I thought it was a points, coil or condenser problem. So I adjusted and swapped out those items with other ones from the 70. No change.

My future son-in-law stopped by and I asked him what he thought was wrong. He said it sounds like a fuel problem. Fuel didn't occur to me because the fuel bowl looked full to me and the engine would run fine until it got hot.

But I pulled the fuel bowl assembly apart to clean it. And there it was - a piece of grit stuck in the intake to the fuel bowl assembly. Cleaned it out and put everything together and the engine purrs - well runs great.

Sometimes it pays to get a second opinion. Just like doctors.

 

[dschwandt]

Harry...Okay, so how long are the studs? and how long are the spacers. Spacers I can make, thick washers should not be a problem either, but studs, I dunno. Would have to be grade 8, w/G8 nuts I would think w/how many threads, NC 16TPI, above and below the non threaded portion?, if there is one.

Geesh, is this the "Desoto" of Kohler engines or what? This is the 3rd 301 I have dismantled and NONE of them had studs anywhere.

At this point, I'm beginning to wonder where this engine came from and if it's even a correct K301 for a 126. It was just "in there" when I brought the tractor home and it appears now that I have fallen into the proverbial "assume" trap here.

 

[hydroharry]

Bruce C - I think you have a lucky "future" son-in-law, and I also agree that a 2nd opinion often pays.

Dave - I've got neither the studs or the spacers, or the nuts for that matter. All I have is the old photos of the head, and memories of being a stud (hehehe). Now Lewis Do-Da usually has at least one of everything so I hope he'll let you know.

Now, about this possible Desoto Kohler - if you didn't have any studs on your other two K301's then they were not correct, assuming they were used in Cub Cadets. I'm gonna go out on a limb and claim the heat shield always used 2 studs (and I know that tree has been debarked, Josh was hanging on a limb and Lewis was cutting the tree).

 

[dschwandt]

Well, stupid me....I just uncovered my 125 that I bought 2 years ago and stashed and it has the studs as you guys mentioned. Guess I should have done that sooner, but I already had another parts 125 that one of the engines came from and it had the same spec # as the one that was in the 126 so I assumed (there's that dern word again) that they were the same.

I sure hate to take the good 125 apart just to find the length of the studs cuz I'm pretty sure it has never been down from the way it looks. I'm sure McMaster Carr would have th correct studs if I could get some spec's on 'em. Are all 5 the same length?

Appreciate you folks putting up w/me here, this is the 1st NF I have really gotten into.

 

[hydroharry]

Dave - you don't need to go tearing your 125 apart to find out what you need for studs and spacers, and it doesn't hardly matter about being a narrow frame. The studs and spacers were used on the K engines in the 1x8/9 series too. I don't know what parts look up you're using. When I look at the CCC one linked here I see it shows requiring 6 (six) hex head mach screws 3/8-16 x 2 1/4 (this is listed under the head info). My parts book is only for wide frames and for the K engine in the 128 it shows requiring
5 (five) studs Kohler Part No. KH-237277,
4 (four) hex head cap screws that are 3/8-16 x 1 1/2 Grade 8 (alot short than yours),
4 (four) spacers KH-X-400-71,
5 (five) hex head nuts 3/8-16,
5 (five) hex head jam nuts 3/8-16

It's sure odd my parts book shows the cap screws being 1 1/2 (for the engine in the 128) and the CCC site is showing 2 1/4 (for the engine in a 126) but I'll bet both will work.

I'm hoping Lewis will pipe in after he gets home from church

, or maybe someone else has an engine open that can give exact details.

You can also do a little more detective work. It's obvious the threading on the studs will be the same as the bolts so that's one answer. Next if you look at Lewis' pics you can see how much area the spacer take up - and that they come up just to the top or are slightly above the tin cover. Since the nuts should be the same thickness as the heads on the bolts I think you can determine how large the spacers should be.

Now - the next question on the studs - requires a little more guessing. My recollection is the studs do not have stops (blank threaded areas). I don't think they can have stops since you have to install a washer and nut to torque the head, and then you add the spacer. (If they had a stop it would have to be less than the thickness of the washer and I just don't think they have stops). I believe you just install the studs until they bottom out. So, with this in mind you could see what you have laying around and handy to try - something with the same threads about 3 or 4 inches long, and screw it in all the holes to see how much thread depth you have, and then you can calculate back from that to determine the stud length you need.
(Also, I'm suggesting you check all 9 holes just to verify how much threaded area is there on every one).

One other thing - I mentioned my recollection was the studs are installed until they bottom out - if you are installing the L shaped engine hanger bracket on top of the heat shield you need to leave that stud about 1/4 in from bottoming out.

Now - it's taking me about 30 minutes to type all this up. I wonder when someone is going to give us the actual lengths of the studs and spacers.

 

[cmiracle]

Have yall used the Cub Cadet yellow Majic paint/hardener from TSC? The label looked a little orange, but would it stand out in a line of Dupont color # matched cubs? Or is the School Bus Yellow a better match? I'd rather not drive a couple of hours to get another brand of paint...

 

[cmiracle]

I just read some bad stuff about Majic paint, now the drive definitely seems worth it...

 

[bwittman]

Thank you for the tips on getting the 1250 to start better, Hydro Harry! I have something to look into from your insight.

 

[mmoredick]

I need to fix the steering knuckles/axle on my 70 and 124. Both of my spindles are loose in the axle housing.
Can i use a 149 knuckle and king pin boring the hole to fit the spacer?
I see in the FAQ a super steering axle of a 82 series. Is that the way to go?
thanks

 

[jbaker]

looks like seat time on the 169, 5 inchs of white stuff and still falling,,grrrr

 

[lpalma]

Jeff,
looks like more seat time,but it is getting old being in the cold,come on spring!

David,
the spacer is 11/16 tall,the studs are 3 5/16 long and are not all thread 3/4 ? threads into the block.
the 1x8 1x9 only use 2 studs as the gas tank is mounted on the dash tower.

 

[jlspicer]

Jeff,
That stinks. We only got about an inch and it stopped. Rain to freezing rain to snow. Supposed to get more rain tomorrow, then 50 by Wednesday. I'll let mine melt. Already pulled the blade off the 1772. Karma........

 

[jbaker]

I would of liked to let it melt but at almost 6 inch's, I had to get seat time. pics later

 

[jbaker]

very messy pushing snow with the soft ground under it, and a throw would of been clogging up bad

 

[dtanner]

Jeff b

complain ,complain , complain . you should be here this winter.