Archive through March 21, 2014

[bjamison]

Brought the 126 down from camp duty today...

Need to get it ready for mowing season. On the list is:

Hydro fluid change
Engine oil change
Points and plug and maybe a Dave Kirk points saver kit
Tubes in front tires
Kohler #26 carb in place of the Walboro
Retorque the head
New seat
Mowing deck serviced

If I have time:
23 Deg's Firestones w/tubes on the rear
3 point hitch w/helper spring assist
Move the V/R under the rear seat

 

[hydroharry]

Don T - the 12hp engine itself sounds really good to me in your video. At about the 21sec point just after your extreme rev (sounded above 3600rpm) I hear a whinning or scraping sound start. I listened again to the entire video and do not think I hear it at the start, so about 21 or 22 sec it starts and continues to the end. I'd check the screen on the flywheel to see if it's rubbing the shroud (although the sound in the video wasn't quite what I'd expect). Sometimes they get bent just slightly on re-install and can rub the shroud.
Another thing to check is whether you installed a bolt in the shroud that is to long. Kohler does use different lengths for the lower side and if you use one to long it can rub the flywheel.
If it's not any of these then I would check the PTO again.
Overall it does sound as tho something is rotating and rubbing against a non-rotating surface.

Bill QQ - before you move the V/R under the seat make sure you have a good overall look at the wiring harness. The 1x6/7 series is notorious for harness failure - it just disintegrates upon touching.

 

[jnicklas]

Haven’t posted for quite some time, work, in-laws, and grandkids have kept us very busy for the last couple of years. I just retired in Oct. after 40 years of working in the manufacturing industry making industrial lift trucks, my plans now are to work on my Cubs. I have a 149 with the engine on the work bench ready to re-install, a second 149 to clean and paint. A 1250 basket case that will not run that need a lot of work and a 1650 I picked up last fall, pictures below that ran for about 3 weeks and through a rod. I have that on the bench waiting on warm weather to get back together. Also an IH 782 that doesn’t need anything at this time. I have been following the discussing on the QL series and I have to agree on the casting comments. We used very large cast counterweights on the rear of the truck, some weighing 10 to 15 thousand pounds. We would put a little filler” body putty “in the deep sand holes but for the most part they were painted with a rough surface. At 15-18 $/HR you don’t want to waste a lot of time sanding/grinding.

 

[dschwandt]

John, That's a sweet lookin 1650 Ya got there!!! She musta had more than a few daters with Mr. Clean!!! Wish mine looked that good but I don't have time now to do much in the cosmetic dept. what with tilling and mowing season around the corner.

My 1450 did the snow thrower duties this winter and will be pulling a plow here shortly and I'm in the process of getting the dual stick 1450 set up w/sleeve hitch for de thatch work. Gonna try and modify my cheap farm store de thatcher so it will work off a sleeve hitch.

 

[thoffman]

KO,
That hood latch looks like it wouldn't be too hard to make. I' like.

 

[kostendorf]

John, nice looking 1650. I see you have the manual release valves, is your grill housing aluminum or cast iron? Nice deck too. I've got a 44c on mine but I just found a 48 I'm going to use this summer.

 

[jnicklas]

David, Keith, thanks, that's the way it looked the day I brought it home. The PO owned a local paint shop, same one we used for parts for work after they did away with the fabrication process. Said he had everything bead blasted then fresh paint. Lower housing is cast iron. I know that for a fact when I took it off to pull the engine. I hope when I get the others finished they look half as good,

 

[jclazar]

Fantastic looking 1250!

I sanded the cast on both the grill and the transmission. They'll be seeing primer and paint so as to lean toward the smooth side effect. But, what the heck......the factory look is fine by me too!

H Y D R O fluid change

lol!

 

[jclazar]

Well, I did a double take when I read Bill was changing the hydro fluid in his camp 126, knowing its a gear drive Gt. That's right, and that's recommended!

 

[dtanner]

Harry Bursell

I did use my photo tack to set wot at 3800 . I think the manual says 3800 no load ? Now that you said about the noise I think I will check that out . I bet you are correct in it not shaped correctly. I will check it in the am and let you know.