Archive through March 20, 2012

[dtanner]

Off to Toronto Canada next week I think to recover a MC that a friend has that broke down.To Toronto from here is 1268 KM 788 miles one way. Should be a blast .

 

[bjamison]

So while I'm busy thinking ahead (at the risk of my marriage... ) about the next Cub Cadet for my fleet, I've decided it will be a gear drive - thanks for everyone response to that question.

What I've got my brain thinking about now is a gear drive that is also a rope start.

What model CC's were rope start and are these abundant or a rare find?

Thanks!!!!!!
Bill

 

[kmcconaughey]

Bill, the Original, the 70, the 71, and the 72 were the only pull start Cub Cadets. All were 7hp and all were gear drives. They are rare. The last of the 7hp Cub Cadets, the model 73, was only available in electric start. Fenders were an option on these tractors. Also there is a gap between the foot rests and the fenders. Thought I'd mention this per your query yesterday.

 

[dfrisk]

BILL - I don't think you really want a pull start CC. I have to pull start the K181 on my lawn vac. It starts good, but it pulls pretty hard.

I guess it's one way of making sure nobody else runs "YOUR" CC.

 

[dfrisk]

DON - re S/G pulley, I've MIG'd both of mine. 2-3 tack welds will do it!

 

[bjamison]

Kraig - I thought about the gap between the fender and foot rest - thanks!

Dennis - yea, I hear you on the hard to pull aspect. I've got another color tractor that has a 14hp Kohler Magnum on it and I put a rope start on it as a battery back-up and have used it from time to time. Early on with this engine, I found that it's good NOT to have to many winds on the pulley as if it kicks back - sore fingers and joints! OTOH, it has saved the day a few times.

Thanks again!
Bill

 

[pbell]

Luther, Denny,
According to the CPE-2 equipment parts manual/catalog, the 44C and 50C decks were built 1979 and later. It would appear the I167G MFD you list is in the CCC serial number format, where the "I" is the month (ninth letter of the alphabet = ninth month of the year, September), "16" is the day of the month, "7" is the last number of the year (probably 1987), and "G" is the factory it was built in ("G" = Brownsville, TN.) I don't know if equipment used the same format as the tractors or not, so this is just a guess.

Bill Jamison,
The "Original", 70, 71, 72 all had recoil or "rope start" as standard equipment and electric start as an option, but by and large, most were equiped with electric start. To find one so equiped is fairly rare (but not impossible), and to find one that the recoil mechanism and magneto is still intact and functioning, is even more rare, and those correct parts are hard to find.

Denny and kraig type too fast.......

 

[hydroharry]

Charlie and Kraig - I made a couple posts yesterday in reply to Kraig's ROPS, Dan's pulley, and a couple other things. Did I reach my posting limit for the month or something? I think they were within the rules.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and deserve being talked about)

 

[wshytle]

Charlie-

Did you get my email last Thursday, the 15th?

Thanks

 

[dmjames]

Was in a hurray earler and posted in the wrong form, so Hydro Harry or anyone who has seen this, I have been looking at a 149 for a while, waiting on the owner to get someone to get it running. I gave up and went out to day and got it running my self. It runs good mowes decent but the hydro made a banging noise so I got to checking and it was banging up and down because some of the bolts holding it to the frame are gone and the others are stripped out. Have any of you seen this or how to fix. thanks for info. David

 

[dtanner]

Dennis Frisk
Thanks !

 

[lpalma]

Don T,
another 100 miles and you would be in Nj.

This is my 72 recoil start,starts on the second or third pull...

Here is another shade I have as a brochure.

 

[stanner]

Dave J,
I know all too well about that, as this is why I took mine apart 5 years ago.. The bolt broke off inside the casting. You'll need to remove the rear transaxle and drain the Hy-Tran Fluid, so you can remove the axle housings, and get at the bolts. My bolts backed right out, turning them with a sharp metal scribe. You can now put in new grade 8 bolts.

That's the easy part... Chances are that your frame holes are now oblong, and should be welded and re-drilled so the rear is solidly secured to the frame. This step is a nice-to-do item, and is not absolutely neccesary, but highly recommended. If not fixed, the rear will still rock back and forth in the frame. I though about bushing the hole in mine by drilling out the wallowed out holes, then adding a bushing to fix the hole. The issue with this is making sure that you get the holes in the right spot. I suppose you could bush just one, then leave the other one alone.. you could make a template out of strap steel, patterned off of the axle housing to get the right spacing. I used a piece of steel that I made for a future ROPS mount as a template for re-drilling the hole (I welded them shut then re-drilled)

 

[dtanner]

Lewis Palma

now that would cost me $$$ . I don`t have a sickle bar grass cutter lol. I think I better stay here and look over lol. It is just to easy for you all.

Denny

I will get it welded. Today it was 20 deg here, tee shirt weather. I hoped to get some work done this winter, because I know nice days I will be on my Nomad. Just stuck waiting to buy parts and shipping time, but I do have things I like to fill in time. I do have some other mods to spend time on. I had better align the PTO cut outs for the set screws for the PTO.Or not.

 

[hydroharry]

David J - besides what Scott T mentions I have to believe there could be wear issues with the drive shaft alignment and couplings, or the holes in all those parts wearing out of round. I've never actually encountered what you're describing but what Scott says makes sense. Another fix for just the frame might be just to find a replacement. They are around and hardly ever required as a replacement so sell price can't be to much. It wouldn't have to be from a 149. It could be any xx8/xx9 frame, and I think it could also be from a Quiet Line unit as well. If you're plan is to restore it you're gonna have it tore apart anyway. As for buying the tractor and what to pay if you do, well, all I can say is consider the cost to replace the frame, and that you probably will have some drive shaft and coupling issues to address, and maybe even a problem with the shaft on the hydro pump itself if its been going on to long. You have some risk with this unit. Consider it in the price.

Don T - I sure hope you ain't going on your trip via the St. Lawrence seaway.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (but sometimes get things mis-aligned)

 

[digger]

Lewis P.
I've got one of those.

 

[fcurrier]

David James: Congrats on getting it running! That's a big part of the battle and makes me think you're mechanically inclined. That's another plus. "It mows good" made me grin -- the most grass I see here is over the septic tank! My theory when it comes to prices is look at the cheapest "box store" garden tractor and work backwards from that price -- you'll usually find that you've got a better unit for less money. This forum is indespensible for info and you don't need metric tools!

 

[lhinds]

Dennis and Paul Thanks very much for the info.

 

[aschumacher]

Leave it to Charlie to put a sunshade on his tractor in the winter !

..

..

 

[hydroharry]

Scott T - upon further review and investigation, I'm wondering just what that tractor is in the pic you posted. I see a non-IH wheel weight on the throw rug which sparked my interest. I noticed an integrated starter (no S/G) but it doesn't appear to be an Kohler K "AQS" engine. I don't see a muffler box, and I don't see the tube off the side of the shroud that would connect to an egg shaped air cleaner. Just what is this mysterious tractor????

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (even if modified)