Mike, one thing I forgot to add about the search, change the "Keyword options" to: "And" (Match all keywords) Like this:
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Archive through March 19, 2019
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Mike, this is probably the best post on drive shaft material and is the one I recalled and was hoping to find:
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
By Dennis Frisk (Dfrisk) on Tuesday, July 24, 2012 - 08:50 am:
Jonathan S. - NO WAY would I make a CC driveshaft out of SS. For one thing it'd be really expensive, another thing is you can't buy decent SS except at specialty steel outlets for inflated prices. And SS is prone to galling. Any place SS rubs against another metal it tears it up.
The proper 4140 alloy steel is 4140 pre-hardened. Normally it's hardened to around 30 Rockwell on the C scale, about the limit of machinability with normal common tools. If you get 4140 annealed, it's not much better than plain old 1018 cold rolled which was what IH used.
Another great driveshaft material is Stress-Proof steel, which is a registered trade mark of LaSalle Steel, which is 1144 severely cold drawn steel. Machines very nice, every company that makes cold drawn steel makes a stress-proof equivalent. You compare the mechanical & physical properties of 4140 pre-hard & Stress-Proof and they almost identical.
I would not get too far away from stock on the clutch on your 100. With OEM components in good shape your clutch can transmit more HP/Torque than you have traction to use.
I put an aftermarket clutch in my #72 when I installed a hot-rodded K321 several years ago. 4140 hardened drive shaft, billet clutch plates, red spring, extended clutch release lever. It was a PITA to run. Finally after 150 hours the throw-out bearing destroyed itself from constant running under way too much pressure and I went back to OEM parts. I had the old clutch slip a few times before I installed the K321 when I was running a K241, plowing in 2nd gear about 8-9 inches deep. Took excellent traction & lots of added weight to get traction too. And that was using 35 yr old clutch plates & pressure spring.
With the new billet plates, OEM spring I have NO clutch slippage with a strong 14 HP engine.
Don't over-think this clutch. The stock parts work really good and every time you shift you'll appreciate it.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
By Dennis Frisk (Dfrisk) on Tuesday, July 24, 2012 - 08:50 am:
Jonathan S. - NO WAY would I make a CC driveshaft out of SS. For one thing it'd be really expensive, another thing is you can't buy decent SS except at specialty steel outlets for inflated prices. And SS is prone to galling. Any place SS rubs against another metal it tears it up.
The proper 4140 alloy steel is 4140 pre-hardened. Normally it's hardened to around 30 Rockwell on the C scale, about the limit of machinability with normal common tools. If you get 4140 annealed, it's not much better than plain old 1018 cold rolled which was what IH used.
Another great driveshaft material is Stress-Proof steel, which is a registered trade mark of LaSalle Steel, which is 1144 severely cold drawn steel. Machines very nice, every company that makes cold drawn steel makes a stress-proof equivalent. You compare the mechanical & physical properties of 4140 pre-hard & Stress-Proof and they almost identical.
I would not get too far away from stock on the clutch on your 100. With OEM components in good shape your clutch can transmit more HP/Torque than you have traction to use.
I put an aftermarket clutch in my #72 when I installed a hot-rodded K321 several years ago. 4140 hardened drive shaft, billet clutch plates, red spring, extended clutch release lever. It was a PITA to run. Finally after 150 hours the throw-out bearing destroyed itself from constant running under way too much pressure and I went back to OEM parts. I had the old clutch slip a few times before I installed the K321 when I was running a K241, plowing in 2nd gear about 8-9 inches deep. Took excellent traction & lots of added weight to get traction too. And that was using 35 yr old clutch plates & pressure spring.
With the new billet plates, OEM spring I have NO clutch slippage with a strong 14 HP engine.
Don't over-think this clutch. The stock parts work really good and every time you shift you'll appreciate it.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
mpatterson
Well-known member
That’s a beast Wyatt!
Anyone have a good source for a splined coupler if mine is worn too much and causing the problem? I see Charlie has them but didn’t see any splinned ones?
Anyone have a good source for a splined coupler if mine is worn too much and causing the problem? I see Charlie has them but didn’t see any splinned ones?
mpatterson
Well-known member
Thanks Kraig - but Dennis, you saying that cold rolled isn’t the best option? Some of that info is too technical for my two brain cells
So I got my monthly shipment of seats in today!
And, I also learned something about what machines take the 8 x 11" bolt pattern.
I guess Juan Dear seats have the same bolt pattern as our Cub seats, LOL
So in case someone wants 40 yeller seats, I'll just send'um back, LOL
And, I also learned something about what machines take the 8 x 11" bolt pattern.
I guess Juan Dear seats have the same bolt pattern as our Cub seats, LOL
So in case someone wants 40 yeller seats, I'll just send'um back, LOL
Charlie-LOL
Charlie, "Juan Dear"
Charlie - I read a WHOLE topic a year or two ago on Green Tractor Talk about how crappy those yellow seats are. THAT'S WHY I BOUGHT MY 982 SEAT FROM YOU!
Wyatt - As you know, Weasler is good stuff. Best Sr. QA lab tech supervisor we had at my last job has been at Weasler now for ten years. Everything she touched turned golden.
That repost of my post on driveshafts saved me lots of typing. JULIAN at MWSC sells pre-hard 4140, I still have a 3 ft PC of 5/8" StressProof out in the shop I was going to use. Find a steel catalog, E.M. Jorgensen, Central Steel & Wire, or any one of the hundreds of websites on the internet. Three things are important, ultimate tensile strength, yield point, higher is better on those two, and hardness. 30 Rockwell C is as hard as you can saw and drill with common tool.
Another thing you could do is increase the diameter of the driveshaft. Going from 5/8" to 1" increases cross section over 255%.
Wyatt - As you know, Weasler is good stuff. Best Sr. QA lab tech supervisor we had at my last job has been at Weasler now for ten years. Everything she touched turned golden.
That repost of my post on driveshafts saved me lots of typing. JULIAN at MWSC sells pre-hard 4140, I still have a 3 ft PC of 5/8" StressProof out in the shop I was going to use. Find a steel catalog, E.M. Jorgensen, Central Steel & Wire, or any one of the hundreds of websites on the internet. Three things are important, ultimate tensile strength, yield point, higher is better on those two, and hardness. 30 Rockwell C is as hard as you can saw and drill with common tool.
Another thing you could do is increase the diameter of the driveshaft. Going from 5/8" to 1" increases cross section over 255%.
mpatterson
Well-known member
Dennis, only problem with increasing the shaft size diameter for 982 is have to machine both ends to fit over the couplers as well as the cooling fan.
Was able to order a new splined coupler after a lot of digging to get correct part number. Not a normal stock item, so have to wait a couple weeks for it. Going to get local machinist to spin my drive shaft on his lathe to see if it is bent at all too. No reason that the engine is causing this issue.
Good info though that you posted! Thanks
Was able to order a new splined coupler after a lot of digging to get correct part number. Not a normal stock item, so have to wait a couple weeks for it. Going to get local machinist to spin my drive shaft on his lathe to see if it is bent at all too. No reason that the engine is causing this issue.
Good info though that you posted! Thanks
mpatterson
Well-known member
Nice haul Tristan!
Tristan, WELCOME!
Very nice! For attachments/accessories I see a mower deck, dozer blade, rear lift, tiller, a Brinly plow, rear Ag tires and wheel weights. Pretty complete setup.
Very nice! For attachments/accessories I see a mower deck, dozer blade, rear lift, tiller, a Brinly plow, rear Ag tires and wheel weights. Pretty complete setup.
mgwin
Well-known member
Tristan,
Congratulations!
Looks like you will be doing some gardening soon with that fine 782.
Welcome to the forum.
Congratulations!
Looks like you will be doing some gardening soon with that fine 782.
Welcome to the forum.
glippert
Well-known member
Welcome to the forum, Tristan. Nice score on the 782 and all those attachments. What part of the world did all of that come from to get to Belgium?
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I know I'm a little late, but Mike P. I'm sure your drive shaft is bowed. My first 982 would vibrate and I found the shaft was bowed and the couplings were badly worn. My second 982 is bowed as well but not as bad. I agree with Dennis Frisk. 1144 or pre-hardened 4140 would be a great substitute for that 1018 OEM shaft.
Tristan, Nice 782. That is one of my favorite tractors. I'm sure your really liking it. I'm really liking the look of those rear tires.
Tristan, Nice 782. That is one of my favorite tractors. I'm sure your really liking it. I'm really liking the look of those rear tires.
mgwin
Well-known member
Almost done clearing the downed trees behind the house. Hope to finish tomorrow.
Here are a couple of spots that I cleaned up.
The pics don't do it justice. There are about 15 downed trees in this pic, but it looks like only three. There are about 15 wood piles too.
Here is one other spot where there were about 10. One was a large maple.
Getting closer to begin finishing up on the 100!
Here are a couple of spots that I cleaned up.
The pics don't do it justice. There are about 15 downed trees in this pic, but it looks like only three. There are about 15 wood piles too.
Here is one other spot where there were about 10. One was a large maple.
Getting closer to begin finishing up on the 100!
Finally got some serious cub time in,got back to work on the freebie 149 and sorted out some headaches that have cropped up on iron patriot (1450 plow rig).the freebie needs new hydro damper springs so I’ll be hitting up digger for parts
Marty, nice progress!
