Archive through March 19, 2014

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Tim Zingleman

A 12 volt automotive coil will not work. A cub coil has a built in resistor . But you could add a resistor of an early dodge Car (71 duster 225 slant 6 ) . Looks like porcelain about 4 " long with two slide on plugs.It will work but not OEM

 

[mfrade]

Some GM auto coils have a built in resistor! Where do you think IH bought theirs for their tractors?? Delco-Remy..
Simply ask the counter person for a unit with a built in coil, or ask if it is listed as using an external resistor, usually Ford (resistance wire) or Mopar (external block resistor).. hth.

Also many auto houses will list parts for small engines. Worth a try!

And of course you'll need to mention it's points ignition..

 

[kmcconaughey]

Tim, could also be the condenser, or even a plugged vent in the gas cap. But my vote is it's the condenser.

 

[bjamison]

Tim Z - I think Kraig is right on. I had similar troubles with my 126 and it turned out to be the condenser.

Also, I believe your compression reading might be low due to the engine compression release.

Harry B - how am I doing, trying to answer a few quick questions....

 

[hydroharry]

Bill QQ - geez, I know you're trying. For me I would not jump on the compression question since I don't know how Tim was performing the compression test or what tester he was using. The Kohler manual calls out a funky testing method using a hydrometer (or something like that). It's always been my understanding that because of the ACR (Auto Compression Release) you can't measure compression in a Kohler engine using a standard compression tester.

Now as far as the 30 minute run time issue - being I'm an older guy if I ran for 30 minutes I'd probably sputter and die to. Fortunately the Kohler comes back to life after some period of time. Now, I had always thought a coil or a condensor were either good or bad - that there was no partial or in between - basically it either worked or didn't. So, over the last couple years this website has proven my knowledge to be wrong (yup, I admit it). There have been several guys that either had a bad coil or condensor and were able to run the engine for awhile. So, as usual for me I fall back onto my old methods - replace the cheapest and easiest component first. If that doesn't fix it then you got a spare, and you go to the next easiest cheapest. Hmm, start with the spark plug, then the wire, then the condensor, (can't see it being the points but throw in a set for good measure) then the coil. If none of that works, well move on to the PTO switch if it's electric, then key switch. I don't think it'd be the solenoid, but oh well, nothing wrong having a spare around to. Anyone that wants to can print a copy of this list just in case they want my view.
So Bill - you're catching on now.

 

[bwittman]

Bill QQ,

I hate to cloud the hydraulic port issue even more, but my 1250 Nightmare was built in September of 1977, and it doesn't have front holes for hydraulic ports.

Perhaps the newer 1450 and 1650 models do, because of their standard equipment hydraulics.

I like the look of the plain frame cross member. I think the unused and plugged port holes looks a little cheesy.

 

[ewells]

tim my 122 coil failed on weekend. I went to autozone asked for 12v internal resistor coil and got a confused look. I then asked for a VW coil I think 1968 and checked in the box said was internal resistor and been running ok for couple of years now

 

[sblunier]

Hot wire coil direct to battery and you can eliminate all of the chassis electrical components (key switch, pto safety, bad wiring etc).

 

[ccarney]

Fwiw from yesterday's question my 71 drives my one-extension no 1 tiller just fine, I the rocky sandy soil I live in. It gets tilled every year tho. I tried once however to do my sister in laws former horse pasture near red wing and found I had to break it with the 10" plow first before plowing.

 

[jgoodine]

Tim I don't have the experience some guys have and I know compression test on these engines are not accurate, but that is exactly what my k301 gives me for compression. Also if I were you, I would also change gas filter and check to make sure gas tank cover is not plugged. It can't hurt

 

[aaytay]

"Impressive that the Original plows so well. I would have thought about the belt coupling to the tranny from the engine and maybe lighter weight as compared to later models might be somewhat a handicap?"

Bill-
The belt-drive of an Original is not a handi-cap at all. Zero. A lot of people forget that the belt on a Original transfers the Kohler's power to the drive-train, but is not used as the clutching mechanism like a lot of other belt-drive GTs. The biggest issue an Original has in the furrow at a PD-event is the slower 2nd gear in the transmission. You'll pile up more tractors behind you than Charlie does with other customers at the local Taco-Bar, but that's another story for another day!

The lighter weight of an Original has never been an issue for me, but then again I usually "help" with about #230 of 'ballast'. (A little 'body English' doesn't hurt either)

 

[thoffman]

Harry admitted he was wrong....

 

[tzingleman]

Thanks again, everyone. I was just using a standard inexpensive compression gauge, throttle open, turning the engine over about a dozen times. I now know that these readings aren't accurate, but at least I know the cold reading is at least 75 psi and the machine runs great, and I know the hot compression is not less than 75 psi. The ignition wire is already connected to the battery. That's the way it came, and I haven't had much time when I didn't think I'd use the 124 to work on rewiring it properly.

I hadn't considered the gas cap, but I know I have checked it for gas when it started running poorly at least once, and I would think that would have let some pressure back into the system, so I'm thinking it's probably not that. I have the old-timey glass bowl w/ fuel cut-off that you guys helped me find a couple of years ago, and the engine doesn't want to crank back up until it has cooled off, so I'm thinking it's not a fuel-related issue.

I have to admit I'm a little eager to get this thing running. I had about 20 trees cut down and still have fill dirt to move, spring is coming and I was kind of counting on this thing to help the job done. I don't have a lot of time to wait on parts to come in the mail, and I don't want to use my nearly-new John Deere mower as a tow vehicle... so if I seem to be leaning towards parts I can get at the auto-parts store, that's why. If I have to wait, I have to wait. I know the thing is almost 50 years old, and I really like it -- but I like it the most when it's running well.

I left myself open to Murphy, and he may get me this time.

Is the condenser very specific to the engine or is there a more common one I can use that's a little easier (quicker) to get? It's just a capacitor, right?

I like the idea of the VW coil if it mounts right up... I don't have the means to do any customization that doesn't require cable ties and duct tape.

I'll have to post some pics of it soon. I want to finish my "farm grade" utility paint job first, though. I like the machine, and wife willing and if the Creek don't rise, I hope to get a lot more work out of it.

 

[hydroharry]

Tim Z - I just checked AutoZone and sure'nuff they have a '68 VW Beetle coil that shows as "internal resistor" type just as Ed Wells had said. They don't list dimensions but the pic looks near identical to the size and style used on a CC.

It's part no. LU800, in stock (at your local Loganville AutoZone) but pricey at $31.99.

No guarantee this will solve your problem. Based on the price you might want to start by changing the condensor first, but I think you'll have to get one at your local small engine shop. Let us know how you make out.

 

[lhinds]

Joel as I said soil is different so I would try using what I have. Also I always till as deep as the tiller will go.

 

[bjamison]

Harry B - It's always been preached to me to be a fixer and not a parts replacer, but I get what you are saying and reading between the lines, what you are really helping me with is how to get more parts into the basement under the Wife/Boss' radar. But it might be better to start with the more expensive items and justify the next replacement part, because it's "less" expensive - until you have a whole tractor on the shelf...

 

[tarthurs]

Tim Z, I have had this issue on a few cubs over the years and it has always been the coil. A good way to tell if its a fuel problem or an electrical problem is by how the tractor shuts off, if it spits and sputters and then dies its most likely a fuel problem but if its running fine and just dies that means you lost spark.

 

[tzingleman]

Wow, thanks, Harry. I had no idea you could look up parts like that from home. I'm going to pull the coil, condenser, and wire off and take them up there to see what they can do here in a little while.

 

[dfrisk]

TOM H said, "Harry admitted he was wrong.... "

Yep! And not only that but he's all kinds of confused about the "MANOMETER test" Kohler recommends, not a "hydrometer test".

Since both IH & Kohler have trouble-shooting sections in their manual's, people should read those before trying unfamiliar tests. If you're lucky enough to have access to a SUN Engine analyser, then I guess you can be more creative. These old K-series Kohler's are "Old School", You can't punch a few buttons then they tell you what's wrong, or hook a code reader to them... it actually takes some work to trouble-shoot them.

 

[hydroharry]

Dennis - yup I was sure wrong about that Hydrometer thing. I just new it had something to to with water and had a funny U shaped loop in the pic in the manual. Now as for it being called a MANOMETER, I don't know if this site allows that type of terminology. Next thing you know there will be a WOMANOMETER, but probably only talked about over in the Garage (speaking of which I haven't been there recently).