Archive through March 19, 2013

[dschwandt]

Kieth, 1-1/4 EMT, not the ridgid stuff, is what I used to make my extensions out of. Then just gave /em a shot of hi-temp aluminum rattle can.

 

[nbartee]

Does it look like I have all the pieces? I don't see a top cover.

 

[hydroharry]

Dennis and Scott L - well, wouldn't you know it, I have to disagree slightly with Dennis' position on some of the paiting. I know and understand the reasons, but still have a little different recommendation. I would not install the inspection plate on the rearend, and I would not install the breather cover. These 2 items get installed with gaskets, and I mask/block off the openings and paint the plate and cover separately. I hate having to cut thru a painted over gasket, and if the bolts/fasteners are painted over with the plate and cover installed then when you go to remove them for maintenance the paint will almost always chip off and look bad. It's fairly easy to mask over the openings where these items would mount, so you can keep a nice clean metal surface where the gasket mounts. And yes, you'll have to touch up the paint when you install the bolts on teh rear inspection plate (I think I found some small stainless washers the size of the bolt head and about 1/16" thick that you can't even see, so I actually didn't have to touch up the paint). Of course this is just me being finnicky with the way I do things. I like the looks to when it's done. You can see nice clean new gasket edges not all painted over. And for what it's worth, I actually paint the bolts a grey/silver color with some special paint I have. I like the appearance and makes the bolts look sorta like new. I didn this to the bolts on the rearend cover, the wheel lug bolts, and many of the others that may need to be removed for various maintenance (i.e. coil mount, condensor mount).

 

[sblunier]

There are MOdel, TYpe, and Spec numbers stamped right here on the Briggs engines....

 

[aaytay]

Keith-
Charlie sells them (and the clamps to go with them).

 

[dfrisk]

NORM - not sure if the rear PTO switch is in the correct spot, but it's in the same place as mine is, so I'd say your O-K there.

My 982 had a new plastic dash panel installed as part of it's refurbish before I bought it and the lettering is all legible yet, but your's looks correct. It's only missing the cruise control stop for the hydro speed lever in the slot to the left of the speed control lever. I understand SHARPIE makes a silver felt tip paint pen that works great for repainting the lettering on those dash panels.

I absolutely HATE those Maintenance Minders, the plastic lens in them always fogs over if the tractor spends ANY time at all outside. But it's not like I could ever figure out how many operating hours they showed anyhow with the three hands and dials to add up. My 982 had a new HOBBS hour meter installed when refurbished. It shows 0404.00 hours now. SON left the key on for 20 hours last spring so it actually only has 384 hours since refurbish.

My 982 has a rocker switch installed between the two elec. PTO fuses for the work lights I installed. Two white flood lights under the foot rests facing forward and out to the side plus another white work light above the rear PTO facing back. The times I've mowed with it after dark the work lights were all I needed, no head & taillights needed.

I remember looking at the little CC dealer in downtown Bettendorf, IA back around 1981 or 1982 at some tractors they had on the lot. Place was an old small 2-pump gas station decades before so the lot was really small. They had a 982 & deck and I was looking at the 682's & 782's and I remember thinking "No WAY would I ever need a CC as big as that 982!"

 

[dfrisk]

HARRY - Your tractor, your work... you can paint it ANY way you like. But it's NOT the way IH did it, so you get a deduct to a 99-point restoration.

FWIW, after you service the rearend one time you have a nice new fresh unpainted gasket edge exposed around the rear cover anyhow. Yes, I even pull the rear cover to service my GD's.

Just kidding with you of course!

And all the hardware installed after the chassis was painted would be cadmium plated, not painted, so rear lug bolts, hood pivot bolts, etc would be silver, so that would be correct! ;-)

 

[hydroharry]

Dennis - well I thought we were on the same page just with different foot notes (and yes I'll accept the 1 point deduction). Good point on the cadium plating. I forgot to mention that.

Scott - there is a place in CT that still will cadium plate the hardware for you, bolts, nuts, PTO linkage and turn buckle. Sure makes for a nice look. Not sure of the price but last I knew it was less than $100 for a bucket of stuff (you have to have everything ready for plating tho).

 

[nbartee]

Steve,

You are correct, I just had to remove some crud. Still hard to make out as a lot of the numbers are filled in with paint. If these don't make sense, I'll take a sander to it.

Model 422437
type 4050 01 90082312

 

[dfrisk]

HARRY - I remember YEARS ago we were discussing plating hardware here and Bryan posted a pic of some hardware he plated with Eastwood's Tin-Zinc plating. Was the same color as cad plating, just a bit brighter shine; http://www.eastwood.com/ew-electroplating-system-tin-zinc.html

But I bet the corrosion resistance of the cad plating is MUCH better than the tin-zinc. But any plating that works with two "D"cell batteries must have it's limitations. Maybe spray some clear satin finish laquer over the plated parts.

Last job I was involved with plating at we switched ALL our yellow zinc-dichromate plated parts over to a RoHS compliant clear zinc-dichromate plating and it was VERY similar to the color & sheen of cad plating, plus offered about the same corrosion protection as cad plating. It would be available anywhere and be fairly cost effective since it's environmentally safe. It would be available in both barrel and rack plating. The rack plating would be more expensive but would assure uniform coverage over the whole part like on a CC grill screen, etc. Lug bolts, hardware, etc. could be barrel plated.

I guess the fact I put gasket sealant on ALL my paper gaskets influences the way I deal with gaskets. I have two types of Permatex, and a drawer full of every color RTV available, and a can of "Right Stuff" but for coating gaskets my #1 choice is Hylomar Universal Blue. Every gasket in the 70 I'm working on will have it. http://www.hylomar.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=62&Itemid=70 Except the head gasket! I've had thick paper gaskets leak internally through the gasket material and a coating of paint helps seal those leaks.

NORM - Yes, you still need a belt cover for that deck. I think your spring for the belt tension idler on the deck is the first one I've EVER seen with the eyelet where it bolts to the deck housing NOT broken off. I normally keep a spare one and a couple mule drive idler pulleys on hand for both my decks. I had a bad mule drive idler on the 982/50C two yrs ago and when it finally went bad it locked up and killed the engine before I could hit the switch to shut the mower off. Takes a LOT to bring a B48G Onan to a stop like that.