Hydro, that isn't a simple sun shade type canopy it's an actual Roll Over Protective Structure aka ROPS. Anytime you have an ROPS you want to have a seat belt as it's safer to stay in the seat if it goes over.
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Archive through March 18, 2012
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
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- Binder 1650
OK - even though I am hopelessly behind on my technically advanced - modern designed 1650...
I'm looking ahead at the next Cub Cadet and have a few questions. This next tractor will be a gear drive.
The gear drive Cub Cadets - use the same rear/transmission as the Cub tractors?
What is the most simplest all shaft driven Cub that has full foot pedals back to the fenders? I want this to keep my Boys feet out of the rear wheel deck area when it's their turn at the wheel. I want simplicity just to make the tractor quick and easy to work/teach my boys basics on fixing/restoring a tractor.
Our grass is greening-up in my neck of the woods. This next tractor will see mowing chores too. How did these older CC cut grass? How was the quality of cut? Can you find decks that are in reasonable shape?
Last question - kind of non-related to the above. Do you folks use your Cub Cadets as daily drivers or to you have a new tractor that "just starts every time you turn the key" Just curious on this one. I know sometimes my other color tractor fleet will fire-off, no problem, but almost certainly if my Wife/boss is at the switch and I'm at the salt mine - trouble is around the corner.
Thanks!!!!!!!
Bill
I'm looking ahead at the next Cub Cadet and have a few questions. This next tractor will be a gear drive.
The gear drive Cub Cadets - use the same rear/transmission as the Cub tractors?
What is the most simplest all shaft driven Cub that has full foot pedals back to the fenders? I want this to keep my Boys feet out of the rear wheel deck area when it's their turn at the wheel. I want simplicity just to make the tractor quick and easy to work/teach my boys basics on fixing/restoring a tractor.
Our grass is greening-up in my neck of the woods. This next tractor will see mowing chores too. How did these older CC cut grass? How was the quality of cut? Can you find decks that are in reasonable shape?
Last question - kind of non-related to the above. Do you folks use your Cub Cadets as daily drivers or to you have a new tractor that "just starts every time you turn the key" Just curious on this one. I know sometimes my other color tractor fleet will fire-off, no problem, but almost certainly if my Wife/boss is at the switch and I'm at the salt mine - trouble is around the corner.
Thanks!!!!!!!
Bill
Sundstrand 15U Rebuild update: Split the 1450 over the weekend, and installed my first rebuilt 15U pump. To my surprise...........it worked! New Gaskets all around=no leaks!!!! The R&R on the Hydro linkage with fixing up the spring slot and adding shims to take up shaft endplay worked great as well. So just like the interview with NASCAR drivers, Thanks to everyone who helped with both technical knowledge and parts! (sorry no pictures to post, when I'm wrenching I do not think about grabbing the camera!)
Bill, yes the gear drive Cub Cadets use the same basic transmission as the Farmall Cub.
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
What is the most simplest all shaft driven Cub that has full foot pedals back to the fenders?<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
<font size="-1">I assume you mean foot rests. If that is the case then the 102, 122, 104, 124, 106, 126 would be good choices. The 102 through 124 have the squarish fenders the 106 and 126 have the one piece fender pans with more rounded contours like would be on your 1650. The 42" decks cut nicely. I use a 125 as a daily driver year round for mowing with a 42" deck, snow clearing duties with a 42" QA42 snowthrower and for hauling in firewood.</font>
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
What is the most simplest all shaft driven Cub that has full foot pedals back to the fenders?<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
<font size="-1">I assume you mean foot rests. If that is the case then the 102, 122, 104, 124, 106, 126 would be good choices. The 102 through 124 have the squarish fenders the 106 and 126 have the one piece fender pans with more rounded contours like would be on your 1650. The 42" decks cut nicely. I use a 125 as a daily driver year round for mowing with a 42" deck, snow clearing duties with a 42" QA42 snowthrower and for hauling in firewood.</font>
BILL - A #104, 124, 106, 126, 86, 108,or 128 will have continuous foot rests back to the fenders. There's others too, the GD versions of the Quiet lines, the 800, 1000 & 1200, also the GD versions of the red tractors, think they're the 482, 582, & 582 SPECIAL. The round fender tractors, CCO, 70/100/71/72/73 all have gaps between the foot rests & fenders.
The gear drive rearend isn't exactly like the Cub Farmall but they share the same beefy design and many parts interchange. The CUB rearend doesn't use a reduction housing on the front of the transmission, the transmission runs at engine speed, 1400 to 1800 RPM depending on vintage. The final reduction is via bull gear & pinion at the ends of each rear axle carrier to slow RPM to the large diameter rear wheels. The CC version uses a 7:1 reduction unit so all of them run 515 RPM in the transmission, and the axles directly drive the rear wheels from the differential. I'm sure KRIAG can post a pic of a CC rearend suspended above a CUB tractor to show the differences. An Internal brake rearend would be the simplest and most common GD. They have an internal 4-1/2" oil bath wet disc brake that works thru the differential to give both rear wheels braking effort. They're really reliable and effective. The clutch is a 4-1/2" dry disk clutch that is very durable also. For just mowing & general yard work they last almost forever.
I found with My SON when he was 8-10 yrs old got along better with a "hydro", he didn't get the gears completely engaged when putting the Cubbie in gear.
Depending on the model & HP of the GD Cub you can use either a 38", 42", or 48" deck. The 38" & 42" are common, the 48" are "Rare", (no SILLY COMMENTS GUYS!) If the blades are sharp, the baffles intact, the deck leveled properly, and the grass is dry they do a good job mowing. Maybe not as good as a Simplicity deck but close. Decks in good shape are around. Depends how they were maintained, afterall, some of them are 40+ yrs old.
I would say most guys here have their CC's as "Daily Drivers", some have newer tractors to mow with but most don't. I haven't run my 70 since between Christmas & New Years, it might give me a problem starting, the main fuel valve in the carb sticks closed. Last time I ran the 72 was DEC 13th. when I finished aerating the yard. It will start right up on the 2nd or 3rd revolution next time I get on it. The 982 would need to be cranked a bit to get gas up to the carb but would start after cranking 2-3 times for 5-10 seconds each time.
Like I always tell everybody, I'd consider buying a new CC or ???? if I ever wore my old 72 out, but I've been trying with NO success for 31 years so I keep running it. It's a '68 vintage, so 44 yrs old this spring. It's the tractor ALL my attachments were designed to fit and work on. It would be the LAST tractor I'd ever think of parting with.
The gear drive rearend isn't exactly like the Cub Farmall but they share the same beefy design and many parts interchange. The CUB rearend doesn't use a reduction housing on the front of the transmission, the transmission runs at engine speed, 1400 to 1800 RPM depending on vintage. The final reduction is via bull gear & pinion at the ends of each rear axle carrier to slow RPM to the large diameter rear wheels. The CC version uses a 7:1 reduction unit so all of them run 515 RPM in the transmission, and the axles directly drive the rear wheels from the differential. I'm sure KRIAG can post a pic of a CC rearend suspended above a CUB tractor to show the differences. An Internal brake rearend would be the simplest and most common GD. They have an internal 4-1/2" oil bath wet disc brake that works thru the differential to give both rear wheels braking effort. They're really reliable and effective. The clutch is a 4-1/2" dry disk clutch that is very durable also. For just mowing & general yard work they last almost forever.
I found with My SON when he was 8-10 yrs old got along better with a "hydro", he didn't get the gears completely engaged when putting the Cubbie in gear.
Depending on the model & HP of the GD Cub you can use either a 38", 42", or 48" deck. The 38" & 42" are common, the 48" are "Rare", (no SILLY COMMENTS GUYS!) If the blades are sharp, the baffles intact, the deck leveled properly, and the grass is dry they do a good job mowing. Maybe not as good as a Simplicity deck but close. Decks in good shape are around. Depends how they were maintained, afterall, some of them are 40+ yrs old.
I would say most guys here have their CC's as "Daily Drivers", some have newer tractors to mow with but most don't. I haven't run my 70 since between Christmas & New Years, it might give me a problem starting, the main fuel valve in the carb sticks closed. Last time I ran the 72 was DEC 13th. when I finished aerating the yard. It will start right up on the 2nd or 3rd revolution next time I get on it. The 982 would need to be cranked a bit to get gas up to the carb but would start after cranking 2-3 times for 5-10 seconds each time.
Like I always tell everybody, I'd consider buying a new CC or ???? if I ever wore my old 72 out, but I've been trying with NO success for 31 years so I keep running it. It's a '68 vintage, so 44 yrs old this spring. It's the tractor ALL my attachments were designed to fit and work on. It would be the LAST tractor I'd ever think of parting with.
jmacdonald
Well-known member
Guys the neutral safety switch release strip broke on my model 125. It's part #3. Judging from what I can see with an inspection mirror it looks like it's held onto the shaft with a spirol pin? Doesn't appear to be much room to hammer out a pin upward and certainly not downward.
Thanks for any help.
Thanks for any help.
James, the spirol pin is just a locator to keep it from rotating on the brake/clutch shaft. The clip itself just clips on. There is a hole in the clip that goes over the spirol pin. I'll post photos in a few minutes.
James,
Don, bummer about the problems/set backs. But on the bright side the fresh paint sure looks nice.
proessler
Well-known member
Denny & all,A few years ago, I found *A Corporate Tragedy* @ local library after a transfer from within South Central WI Library System...PWR
Since deck talk has officially started for the spring I'll share some stages of a "quicky" refurb on a 42". It's going back on the 104 it came from and should be together in a week or so. I didn't plan to do as much as I ended up doing but that's always the case it seems. I can't stand to put a rusted bolt or part back into anything.
Here's a shot of the untouched bottom. It's pitted some but no holes and all is straight. It wasn't used hard apparently but was used. The baffling was toast.
The new baffling turned out well and even close to original. I had some 3/4" angle and cut several 3/4" long pieces, drilled and tapped one side, and with them clamped to the baffling and bolted in I was able to get things darn near original. I did add one brace that wasn't there to begin with.
Here's the "quicky" part. I just steel brushed the underside well, washed it and primed it using a rattle can.
I'll post more pics as it comes together. Most of the small parts that become white are done and waiting. I wasn't planning on painting the top at all but that may change as well. I need to spray some yellow but the rains and winds keep getting in the way. We're suppose to have some beautiful weather this week so maybe...
Here's a shot of the untouched bottom. It's pitted some but no holes and all is straight. It wasn't used hard apparently but was used. The baffling was toast.
The new baffling turned out well and even close to original. I had some 3/4" angle and cut several 3/4" long pieces, drilled and tapped one side, and with them clamped to the baffling and bolted in I was able to get things darn near original. I did add one brace that wasn't there to begin with.
Here's the "quicky" part. I just steel brushed the underside well, washed it and primed it using a rattle can.
I'll post more pics as it comes together. Most of the small parts that become white are done and waiting. I wasn't planning on painting the top at all but that may change as well. I need to spray some yellow but the rains and winds keep getting in the way. We're suppose to have some beautiful weather this week so maybe...
Dennis , kraig
Funny after I posted I thought I might have flooded it so I gave it another try. It ran for a second and was real black smoke out the muffler and then stopped. I found it would not restart because the key in the starter gen basket for the pto is broken. I have a new key here but it will have to be cut shorter for the PTO to fit on the end of the crank shaft. Can someone tell me how long that key is ????
Funny after I posted I thought I might have flooded it so I gave it another try. It ran for a second and was real black smoke out the muffler and then stopped. I found it would not restart because the key in the starter gen basket for the pto is broken. I have a new key here but it will have to be cut shorter for the PTO to fit on the end of the crank shaft. Can someone tell me how long that key is ????
PAUL - Yep, if your Public library doesn't have the book they should be able to Borrow it from another library. Corporate Tragedy is a quick read, only 300 pages, large print and small pages.
DON - On the key for the S/G pully and PTO basket, I'd cut that key off just enough to get the PTO clutch bearing & lock collar on. That key & keyway transmits ALL the power from that Kohler to the PTO, on the higher HP tractors the key will wear the keyway out. I'd make it 1-1/2 inches long if it will clear the bearing & collar. That's 38 mm in CANADIAN.....
WAYNE - When I replaced the baffles on my 38" deck I just welded the baffle to the underside of the deck on the back side away from the blades. Makes it easier to clean the accumulated grass from the deck. Those old 38 & 42" decks are made with heavy enough steel you can arc weld them easily.
DON - On the key for the S/G pully and PTO basket, I'd cut that key off just enough to get the PTO clutch bearing & lock collar on. That key & keyway transmits ALL the power from that Kohler to the PTO, on the higher HP tractors the key will wear the keyway out. I'd make it 1-1/2 inches long if it will clear the bearing & collar. That's 38 mm in CANADIAN.....
WAYNE - When I replaced the baffles on my 38" deck I just welded the baffle to the underside of the deck on the back side away from the blades. Makes it easier to clean the accumulated grass from the deck. Those old 38 & 42" decks are made with heavy enough steel you can arc weld them easily.
Dennis Frisk
thanks for the reply on that key length ,I will have to cut one down in the am and remove the grill and see if I can get it in place. I did follow the timing speck I say posted and I still think I `am to far advanced yet. I will have a look in the am. thanks again.
thanks for the reply on that key length ,I will have to cut one down in the am and remove the grill and see if I can get it in place. I did follow the timing speck I say posted and I still think I `am to far advanced yet. I will have a look in the am. thanks again.
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
I bought the paperback from Binder a few years back. I re-read it every few years...for added insight
It is an enlightening account of IH's management history....however in the last few pages the author takes a few pot shots at the quality of the products that I feel are un-necessary.
It is an enlightening account of IH's management history....however in the last few pages the author takes a few pot shots at the quality of the products that I feel are un-necessary.
jmacdonald
Well-known member
Kraig thanks for the photo and information. Looks like it's a lot easier that I had imagined!
Looks like my problem is bigger than I thought. The key is there locked in place , seems the pulley part is spinning separate from the centre. SO I need to find another one. Looks like evil bay will get some of my money
. This will put the finish of the 125 off for a few weeks. I think I will put it in storage till I get the parts I will need. Thanks for the help guys.
