My Dad and I took this to Auburn Wednesday.
(Message edited by Dmerkle on March 19, 2004)
(Message edited by Dmerkle on March 19, 2004)
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O.K.,here's my take on air compressors. I have a little pancake unit that isn't even good for blowing up a beach ball. Don't get that one. We have a huge one at work that runs a blasting cabinet,(4) 1/2" impacts,the waste oil burner feed,crank grinder turret and chucks,seat grinder and guys blowing off parts fresh out of the jet washer without blinking. Don't get one of those either. Go somewhere in the middle.
Kevin- ya forgot to mention the additional air pressure from your hot air.
LOL
I have a coleman oilless compressor for use here at home and my next one will be a cast iron jobber.
(Message edited by hsimon on March 19, 2004)
I have a coleman oilless compressor for use here at home and my next one will be a cast iron jobber.
(Message edited by hsimon on March 19, 2004)
Hey All! Little pancake compressors are okay for running a brad-nailer, and if you're not running the pants off of 'em, they're okay for framing nailers or a short stint with an air-chisel. No point in trying a die-grinder or air-drill.
In the train-picture I posted, in the upper leftish, you'll see two silver cylinders that are cut off by the upper-edge... this is a regenerative combination dessicant-type dryer with an oil/moisture droplet extracting device. The droplet extractor uses a 'torturous path' method of capturing droplets passing through something called Rashig Rings... held in your hand, they look like a coffee-can full of old piston rings, but they fit together pretty tight. Oil and water droplets stick to the rings, while air passes up through dessicant, and out the top. The grey box between the two towers is a selector valve and control circuit board, which alternates drying between the left- and right-side towers every few minutes. As one tower is absorbing moisture(drying the outgoing air) the other side is 'regenerating'... dry air is directed through the dessicant BACKWARDS, flushing out trapped moisture, and preparing it for it's next round of drying.
Just downstream of this dryer is a filter... barely seen in the photo as a white column right next to a white frame leg on the far left side. This filter has a fine screen and paper element, as well as a sediment-bowl type trap at the bottom. It captures any stray dessicant, as well as precipitants from the cooling compressed air. This particular compressor's outlet rating, in addition the the CFM and pressures I indicated in earlier post, are 35% relative humidity in ambient conditions of 100% RH from 35F to 110F, all in 100% duty cycle.
For painting, you'll want a centrifuge-helix-type separator to extract moisture and stray compressor oil... as well as a conventional filter stage or two to keep any crud from finding it's way into your spray-gun. In most smaller cases, a Speedaire diaghram-type compressor might be a better choice... but they ain't up-to-task of running air-tools.
In the train-picture I posted, in the upper leftish, you'll see two silver cylinders that are cut off by the upper-edge... this is a regenerative combination dessicant-type dryer with an oil/moisture droplet extracting device. The droplet extractor uses a 'torturous path' method of capturing droplets passing through something called Rashig Rings... held in your hand, they look like a coffee-can full of old piston rings, but they fit together pretty tight. Oil and water droplets stick to the rings, while air passes up through dessicant, and out the top. The grey box between the two towers is a selector valve and control circuit board, which alternates drying between the left- and right-side towers every few minutes. As one tower is absorbing moisture(drying the outgoing air) the other side is 'regenerating'... dry air is directed through the dessicant BACKWARDS, flushing out trapped moisture, and preparing it for it's next round of drying.
Just downstream of this dryer is a filter... barely seen in the photo as a white column right next to a white frame leg on the far left side. This filter has a fine screen and paper element, as well as a sediment-bowl type trap at the bottom. It captures any stray dessicant, as well as precipitants from the cooling compressed air. This particular compressor's outlet rating, in addition the the CFM and pressures I indicated in earlier post, are 35% relative humidity in ambient conditions of 100% RH from 35F to 110F, all in 100% duty cycle.
For painting, you'll want a centrifuge-helix-type separator to extract moisture and stray compressor oil... as well as a conventional filter stage or two to keep any crud from finding it's way into your spray-gun. In most smaller cases, a Speedaire diaghram-type compressor might be a better choice... but they ain't up-to-task of running air-tools.
jrichardson
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 12, 2009
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- displayname
- jason richardson
Hey Art, why does this remind me of you?
jrichardson
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 12, 2009
- Messages
- 211
- displayname
- jason richardson
By 10:00 last night, Jeff had discovered some of his Cub Cadet mechanical woes, started banging his head on the desk, and began drinking beer. A little after 2:00 this morning, he was rolling on the floor, laughing. This obviously proves that drinking beer cures headaches.
Thanks, Jeff, I'll check into that. If you have a particular regional brand of headache remedy that you recommend, I'd like to try it. I have some upcoming Cub Cadet-related projects, and may need some preventative medication.
Thanks, Jeff, I'll check into that. If you have a particular regional brand of headache remedy that you recommend, I'd like to try it. I have some upcoming Cub Cadet-related projects, and may need some preventative medication.
K
klutz
Guest
I'm a compressor junkie. I have an emglo portable with a 5 hp briggs on it for building projects. My shop compressor is a 1960 ingersoll rand type 30 with a 242 head and a 3 hp motor. When I bought some parts for it that they had in stock they told me they would have parts for it for years to come. Id like to see someone try to get parts for a brand new compressor. Id put that one up against any new model. The new ones are to light and they run them to fast. I could put up to a 10 horse motor on that head just change pulley speed for more cfm.Then we get into the rotary gas powered units. I have an gardner denver with a 4cyl continental motor im doing motor work on that one I plan on using it for my cabinet blasting with a big nozzle its 85 cfm. Last is my ingersoll rand 160 cfm with a 200 inch international harvestor motor. its going to be used with a big pressure blaster with a 1 inch hoes.At work they run 2 large screw type compressors and a new 10 hp ingersoll for the laser cutting machine.
Dave Kirk-
I think after reading my NTN catalog further I may have "seen the light". The C3 bearings are made with a slightly larger ID to allow for a close clearance fit, like you said a C3 fit. What I didn't understand is what you mentioned about the internal clearances, but I do now. So . . . . I found a pair of SKF 6303 C3's online for $10 a pair. I'm still stuck with the ones from McMaster, but they'll find a home in something of mine someday I suppose.
Thanks for bringing up how that suffix affects the bearing and how they differ from a normal non-suffixed bearing. I'm still learning!
I think after reading my NTN catalog further I may have "seen the light". The C3 bearings are made with a slightly larger ID to allow for a close clearance fit, like you said a C3 fit. What I didn't understand is what you mentioned about the internal clearances, but I do now. So . . . . I found a pair of SKF 6303 C3's online for $10 a pair. I'm still stuck with the ones from McMaster, but they'll find a home in something of mine someday I suppose.
Thanks for bringing up how that suffix affects the bearing and how they differ from a normal non-suffixed bearing. I'm still learning!
Kurt ,I have the identical Ingersol compresser ,It came from the I.H. dealer my Dad worked at. They replaced it in the late 70s with the same unit only 5 hp. I think its a 1961 . I put a new Baldor 3 hp and had new rings and reed valves installed a few years back.
I bought a new blast cab a couple weeks ago and need to pipe my shop so yesterday I went and spent $300. on copper and got started on it .hope to be done today or sun. should have about 200' when I`m done. hope to eliminate my moisture problem.
any thoughts on useing copper? The first guy I told what I was doing said it won`t work but most paint manufactures reccomend copper because it disapates heat faster. I think the pipe itself is rated at 300psi ,just hope my joints hold up.
If the rubber hoses work this should to. My neighbor has plastic (pvc) in his shop and its about 10 years old now ,no problems.
I bought a new blast cab a couple weeks ago and need to pipe my shop so yesterday I went and spent $300. on copper and got started on it .hope to be done today or sun. should have about 200' when I`m done. hope to eliminate my moisture problem.
any thoughts on useing copper? The first guy I told what I was doing said it won`t work but most paint manufactures reccomend copper because it disapates heat faster. I think the pipe itself is rated at 300psi ,just hope my joints hold up.
If the rubber hoses work this should to. My neighbor has plastic (pvc) in his shop and its about 10 years old now ,no problems.
check out the porcalin I.H. sign in my last pic ,It was hanging in our open machine shed as long as I can remember.since you could see it from the road I figured I had better move it to a safer place. I have to ask my dad again what its from
Big snow storm here earlyer in the week ,still have snow on the ground its in the 40s today and its storming with thunder and lightning.
Big snow storm here earlyer in the week ,still have snow on the ground its in the 40s today and its storming with thunder and lightning.
K
klutz
Guest
I have the shop piped in 3/4 and 1/2 inch black iron. i use a set up like the TIP catalog with the drops and risors. I have heard the talk about different piping but all the shops ive worked in have iron pipe. we plumbed the little compressor at work with an alluminum coated pipe because the laser needs supper clean air.Rich yes that looks close to mine I bought 2 qrts of the syn oil but havent put it in yet. i plan on changing it once a year.
Just to let the group here know I survived my operations, my eye is healing slowly and looks like I will be able to return to work next week, than i will be able to keep up with the fourm again.
Got 11 days worth of posting to chetch up on.
Got 11 days worth of posting to chetch up on.
jrichardson
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 12, 2009
- Messages
- 211
- displayname
- jason richardson
Welcome Back Lonny, glad the surgery went well.
