Archive through March 17, 2015

[jpatchett]

Don T.

The cam shaft is hollow and has a pin (like a 3/8" rod) passing through it from one side of the block to the other.

Drive the pin out with a punch from PTO side to the bearing plate side. This will also push out the cup plug on the plate side. There likely will be shims that are at the end(s) of the cam. I don't reuse shims just note what size was where for reference. This is in section 10.5 in my manual.

NOTE the position of the pin relative to the block wall before you drive it out, this will save a little time on reassembly.

Jim

 

[dtrend]

Jim Patchett, thank you very much.

 

[jpatchett]

Jack M.

I think the new style have a bolt on oil slinger vs the old which has it as part of the casting of the rod cap. I know some rods have thicker beams, but I don't think the K181 rod is one of them.

This makes me wonder if this was a improvement, cost savings or both (both is not usually the case).

Jim

 

[dschwandt]

Daddy Daughter dozer duo....

 

[jbaker]

no pictures but went thru a tank and a half with the loader today moving straw/manure

 

[bwittman]

Dave,

I always like to see those parent/child duos. It is wonderful to see the technology driven younger generation out enjoying the simplicity of the tough Cub Cadet.

All,

I have been enjoying some early seat time on the 1250. This spring, the K-301 seems to be starting a little harder than I remember last year. The starter seems to catch only after the key is held for a few seconds, then the machine cranks a lot before starting. The engine runs good after it starts.

I put in new points a couple of years ago, and this is a sudden event. I am not sure about the timing, as I haven't had any luck figuring out the static timing method. When the points were installed, I pulled off the valve cover to see that both valves were closed to determine top dead center.

Could it be that the timing is just a bit advanced? Could it be that the points and plug are wearing again? Could it be that the weather is still too cold and it just takes longer to start?

The engine starts as I think it should when warm. Any thoughts?

 

[hydroharry]

Brian - well, on your starting, I still don't like the static timing idea. To me there is still a chance you could be off a little. Best to use a timing light and adjust it so it's dead-nuts on the SP (sometimes just S) mark.
Now, about your starting - it could be the timing, it could be outside temps, it could be the carb a little gummed up, and it could be the starter starting to slow down. The starter does require maintenance according to the Kohler manual. It could even be the battery putting out a little less juice.

 

[dschwandt]

Got a 126 head bolt question here.....
Is the placement of the fat head bolt washers correct in this picture, sandwiching the head tin, fuel tank and muffler support between the washers and aluminum spacers?

Or....do the fat washers all go on top of the spacers and head proper?

I am going to replace all the head bolts w/new but will be re-using the original fat washers.

Also, does the complete assl'y as pictured get painted, bolts, washers and all?

Thanks I advance guys.
I'd sure like to get this unit buttoned up as the frame, tower & grill will be back from the paint shop soon.

 

[hydroharry]

Dave - I don't have a 126/127 to verify but had some old pics and found this. You can't see everything but it does show studs being used for the heat shield. The studs are double nutted, first the thick washer and nut goes on the head so you can torque correctly - and then add spacer, heat shield, thick washer and nut (in order).
The bolt I don't understand is the one closest to the S/G. Seems to me that should have a bigger hole in the tin so it's not using the tin cover when you torque it. Also, I have to think the 3 bolts holding the gas tank mount should also be studs with double nuts.

 

[lpalma]

should look like this David,this is a 127.