• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

Archive through March 10, 2013

IH Cub Cadet Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Harry B.
Short story about painting PTO's.
So a guy buys all the parts to rebuild his PTO, primes, paints, assembles. Sets using the gauge.
Runs it about 5 minutes, calls me askin why it won't engage.
Before I know he painted it, I said, you primed and painted it before you put it together dint ya!

He said why yes! I said, do you know many thousands that primer and paint added to the parts? There's a pause on the line and he says, Oh crap!
I almost said, Here's your SIGN!!!!!
So he cleans off all the parts that connect to metal, re-assembled it and he's a happy camper once again, LOL

The moral of the story, paint the main body ONLY, and leave the rest alone unless you paint it after assembly, that's my story and I'm stickin to it.
biggrin.gif
 
I feel I must defend the painters of the IH parts. When I first went to work at Freightliner in 1979 we had the best, most modern paint booths money you could buy. We also hired some of the best painters. But with the paints of the time and a production environment runs, fisheyes, etc. were expected.

We tried to paint some fire engines and were so bad at it we finally gave up and painted the cabs (we only supplied cabs and chassis's) black (black will show up every fault in the paint and the underlying body work). We then sent them off to a specialized shop for the final paint job.

Only when robotic painters, computer controlled paint mixing, and hospital clean paint areas were available in the 2000's did we once again paint fire engines.
 
Quick question - oil pan to frame bolts. Are the front two bolts shorter than the two in the rear? If different, anyone know the proper lengths?

I'm pulling the engine out of my 122 and the front bolts are shorter than the rear ones - but they all have IH stamped on the bolt heads...

greenthumb.gif


Just want to make sure this is correct.
 
Bill,
They should all be the same size but the rear ones have a washer and a lock washer.I think they are 1" long.
 
I have installed a 1A tiller on my 1200. The problem that I have is the belt from the right angle gear box does not line up with the tiller which causes the belt come off. Is there any adjustment for lining up the belt?
 
Don-
The grill is still sitting on my workbench. That will get installed with all of the other final bits.

Charlie-
Does that NOS PTO have TWO clutch disks in there???
1a_scratchhead.gif
 
Art,

Originally they were one thin disk. Two thin disks were used in the 70's to transmit more HP without breaking off "ears". Somewhere along the line the went to one heavy disk for all of the PTO's. The rebuild instructions addressed this IIRC.
 
Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow"

Steve; thanks for that info. I did see the two disk and no threads left on the bolts. What puzzles me is when I set up a pto with the gauge I find three exposed threads usually mean it is set up to work great. That said , I see no threads on the pto that Charlie posted
1a_scratchhead.gif
 

Latest posts

Back
Top