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Archive through March 10, 2011

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Dudley C.-

The 50" deck is the largest that will fit.

Jeremiah-

The metal piece on top of the rag joint in this picture (circled in red) should be bolted to the drive cup on the engine; carriage bolts go in the square holes and through one set of holes in the rag joint. 3/8" bolts, washers, and locknuts go through the other two holes in the rag joint and connect them to the coupler on the driveshaft.

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Jeremiah,

Here are two pictures of my drive setup on a 149. I only have one rag joint disk on each end. And I did use lock nuts when I did the final assembly.

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Lets talk hydraulics. Does anybody know the output of the Cub Cadet narrow frame hydraulic setup?
I want to build a loader on my 70 but don't want to pay for a "proper" CC pump. I'm trying to decide if an automotive power steering pump (which I've already got) would do the job.
The pump I've got produces 65bar which a little math tells me is 942psi, with 2" cylinders that seems like plenty considering what little I know about hydraulics.
Flow is still a question that I'm working on...
 
Curt R.
I don't suppose you searched the vault for the info your looking for?
It's been talked about probably 50 times or more over the years.
thumbsup_old.gif

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Jerry & Matt:

I'm missing something with my setup. The "flange" does not bolt up to the engine. My "drive cup" has two (2) 3/8"-16 bolt holes, which don't mate up to the holes on the flange. If I'm understanding you both correctly, I need to find a way to bolt the "flange" (which Matt circled in red) to the "drive cup" as shown in the pictures of the 149 Jerry posted.

Does anyone know how the flange supposed to attach to the drive cup on a 782 (1711) which has now been transformed into an 1811 with the installation of a Kohler M18?

I guess I need to disassemble it so you can see what I'm working with. But I think there is still a piece at the drive cup missing from my assembly.

By-the-way Jerry, I also have a 149 and it takes the single disks, the 782 was configured from the factory with two disks on either end. I may want to compare its setup to the one you show in your excellent pictures.
 
Curt-
A narrow frame hyd pump will probably not be big enough to power a loader.

Also, keep in mind that although the P/S pump you mention may put out 900psi+, it may not push the VOLUME of fluid necessary to drive a loader, so the cylinders may move pretty slow.

Notice how small the cylinders are on that 106 Charlie posted pics of...
 
Point taken Charlie but the search and I don't get along too well... I'm working through it.

Looks like Northern Tools has a good pump for about $150. Maybe if I want this project to work out real well I need to just suck it up and buy a pump. That way I won't have to adapt the output of the pump I have... Or maybe I'll just do it and see what happens and if its bad I'll try again with a better pump.
 
When assembling your rag joints make sure you use the correct nut,those nylon lock nuts are not the right ones to use.You don't want to have it let go on you and ruin that shiny paint.They are described in the parts lookup as gripco center lock nuts.
Charlie,I like that 107's setup.
 

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