Archive through March 10, 2009

[jharvey]

Pops
Connect your battery neg. to soleniod case ground. Connect battery pos. to the small terminal and you should hear a "click" when it pulls in. If you need to test the contacts hook the battery to one of the big terminals and the other battery post to the other big terminal through a load such as a headlight bulb. JH

 

[rchristensen]

Matt & Mike I've had a lot of Quietlines from 1200's to 1650's both early and late versions and have never had one with balance gears. I don't doubt that some might have them though, that's why I said probably.

 

[bcorn]

Thanks Jerry!! knew it was something easy just CRC anymore!

Dustin: just bite the bullet and by from the guys up top. I have bought from Northern and always have to drill new holes.

Pops

 

[atharp]

Have 1250 with internal brakes, Brake retainer O ring is leaking. Can I disconnect linkage and remove brake retainer and front disc thru front or do I have to remove the bevel pinion shaft, constant mesh gear and rear brake lining disc in order to remove brake retainer?

 

[stanner]

Dustin,
I went to my local cub dealer, and bought a seat for a 2000 series cub, layed out the bolt pattern, installed some rivnuts (threadserts) and was good to go...

 

[aschumacher]

Dustin, as Ben suggested check with people above. I know CC Specialties has nice seats that are made for Cubs at prices competive to similar store bought seats.

 

[proessler]

Nick H The hole in the sleeve hitch stabilizer plate is 1.5"...

 

[smitchell]

how do you adjust the inturnal breaks on a 1000 thanks guys

 

[dtanner]

I`am done for today, i got a little done here. primed and ready for paint.

 

[pthorne]

Aaytay,

That's where I was headed. Now to find the replacement mounts and not spend a small fortune.

Any pointers?

 

[dfrisk]

STEVE M. - On the lower front face of the transmission there's a lever about 5-6 in. tall that when You push the clutch/brake pedal down the top of that level moves forward a bit. On the bottom, close to the pivot between the two ears sticking forward on the lower edge of the rearend casting is a square-headed bolt with a hex jam nut. Loosen that jam nut and turn the bolt IN maybe a quarter turn, then lock the jam nut. If You have any brake pads left in Your 1000 You should have brakes. If not, You may have to adjust in another quarter turn.
Remember, The pedal is a clutch AND brake pedal, the clutch has to be adjusted so the clutch disengages before the brake is applied. There's pretty complete instructions in the owner's manual on how to adjust.

 

[stanner]

Phillip T,
http://cubfaq.com/isomount.html

 

[rchristensen]

Alan T. The brake retainer o-ring is pretty easy to replace. Remove the hardware in front of it and then clean the hole in front of the retainer real good. If you have rust you can use some emery cloth and get it cleaned up. Don't lose the small ball in the retainer, and the adjusting bolt has to come out completely to remove the cross shaft.

It is about impossible to grasp the retainer with any kind of pliar to pull it out. If it sticks I use a socket that just fits inside of the retainer and with an extension on the socket you can wiggle it back and forth and it will work out.

If the hydro fluid is drained it is pretty easy, but if you want to do it without draining the fluid you need someone to help and when you pull the retainer out have someone immediately cover the hole with a rag or something and hold it. When you have the new o-ring on the retainer you can replace it quickly and you wont lose a lot of fluid.

 

[pthorne]

THANKS SCOTT!!

 

[pthorne]

After reading the link that Scott posted for me I'm lost.

I'm pretty sure I'm going to fab up a cross support and try to save myself some change. But which motor mounts do you guys recommend?

On CC Specialties web site he has the NAPA replacements and then the originals. The NAPA's are half the cost of the Cub parts.

 

[stanner]

Philip,
I posted the link so you could get the p/n for the moog parts. From what i have read, the moog parts work better than OEM...

 

[wmiller]

Dustin I got a seat at my local CaseIH (Cub Cadet) dealer last year. The label on the box says it was made by the Michigan Seat Company in Jackson Michigan and it has the 8x11 bolt pattern. The part number on the box is B94114. It is very similiar to my original 147 seat. There is another number on the box,but does not appear to be the part number,but double check to be sure. The dealer said the original is not available.

 

[pthorne]

Scott...
I must be blind. I was looking for the p/n in the text, not written on the cardboard.

Thanks for clearing that up!

 

[mstetar]

Thomas F
yes the a kohler K-301 will fit in a 70 i myself have a k-321 in my 100 which is basicly the same tractor but mine has the k-301 tins and flywheel
post some pics when you get it in!

 

[aschumacher]

Hey guys, what did you pay for seats? I got one last year from CCS that was made by Michigan Seat and fit just fine. Thought price was OK even with delivery.<font size="-2">($106.00)</font>