Archive through March 07, 2016

[dwales]

Nic, Same issue with my 129, 1250, 1450. I put the blade in position and put a length of 6x6 under the the end to point the rears toward the rock shaft. A couple of 2x4s under the pivot point of the blade to lift the pins up. A couple of shims get everything at the correct angles. At that point I kneel next to, looking under the cub and can usually make any small adjustments by hand as I slowly drive it forward until I get the pins locked. If I got the heights right I just pull forward until the frame slides off the wood and pull them out from under. If I get it a little too high, a hand sledge to the shims is the ticket.

 

[belliott]

David,

Thanks for the lift pin pictures. No, my pin doesn't look like yours. Mine doesn't have a washer welded to it. Also yours looks like it has a slot cut in it at the end where mine has a hole.

I measured the distance from the casting to the hole and got 3 1/4". Yours looks more like 2 3/4". That 1/2" makes a difference.

I think I have a home-brew pin that was made wrong.

 

[dschwandt]

I have several and they are all the same.

The slotted pin allows the "T" bolt to pivot some and be in more of a straight line w/the tiller at all heights.

 

[mpatterson]

Okay so Nick had discovered what I have! Any problem with cutting off the QA pins at front and welding them the inch or so further ahead so it pins up right AND bottoms out? Does it effect the pivot at all, won't be jamming the blade into the bottom of the grill frame? Nick how close is your bracket for lift rod to front of frame?

 

[nbextermueller]

There is plenty of room to slide it back an inch. The only issue is the lift rod is close or contacts the right side body panel. This happens on most 82 series tractors. My rod is bowed out from ramming into drifts and bending the rod. I call it "self corrected".

 

[fcurrier]

Not much of an accomplishment for a winter's Cub Work, but it should put another 149 into service. One of the 3 Allen Screw holes had been ratted out so I redrilled and tapped them all to accept a 5/16 - 18 screw instead of the 1/4 - 20. Then I needed 5/16 cone point allen screws. Ordered them from McMaster-Carr on a Saturday. 50 to a package. UPS brought them in here Monday morning!!! Now I have 47 extras, but I see no problem with using cone points as a "back up" screw. Was it a cost saving thing for IH not to use all cone points on the PTOs or am I missing something, here?

 

[digger]

Frank C.
I think it has something to do with surface contact area on the first set screw.

Next,
Since you painted the PTO fingers as well as the pto casting. Make sure you check the PTO after you run it for a while.

There's a reason that IH assembled PTO's and then painted them.

Primer and paint can add up to .010 thickness depending on how much pay on, and after the first use, you'll have a PTO that's out of adjustment and could very well slip on ya and create a premature disc failure, Just sayin!

 

[hydroharry]

Charlie - I thought the PTO along with the basket pulley and the S/G all came from Kohler already assembled with the engine, and all painted. (I seem to recall seeing an old factory pic of the engines on a pallet with these items already in place).

 

[fcurrier]

Charlie: Another thought I had while doing this is that you must use some sort of jig - putting these back together is like dealing with a pan of guts!

 

[digger]

No matter where they came from!
And frankly Scarlet, I don't care, LOL

The fact remains that they are all assembled and THEN painted, Nothing more, nothing less.

Of course anyone can do what they want. The RIGHT way is not to paint and then assemble!