Archive through March 05, 2013

[sshaff]

Thanks Tom. I'll probably try using a jam nut that won't budge.

 

[digger]

Steve S.
I've had this setup for 7 years now and still using the same wire! LOL

 

[glippert]

I went home at lunch time today and jumped on the 782 with QA42a to clean up the latest snow mess. 30 feet later, the snow stopped flying. Fortunately, Mr Proctor had previously sent me a nice supply of coil pins to re-connect the sprocket to the shaft. Thanks again, Charlie - snow is flying again!

 

[hydroharry]

Donald T T T T T - I can't see 2 springs in the pic of the PTO on the left. If it has 2 springs then it is stronger than the version with one spring. I'm also glad that Wayne agreed with me. It really wouldn't take you long to disassemble the clutch, paint it up nice (2 coats), dry and re-assemble. You just saw the story of removing a rusty one. I know you don't plan to get yours all wet, and you'll put anti-seize on the allen screws, but the PTO does get hot, and will naturally accumulate moisture as it cools. Think of it as a little preventive maintenance that goes a long long way.

Dennis - are you sure you can't get at the allen screw on the eccentric locking collar of the PTO when you slide the basket pulley back. I seem to recall having done it once. I believe the basket pulley has about 1" of space behind it. The basket pulley has a couple cut-out slots where you can get at the allen screws holding it in place. Once you have those loose you can slide the basket back against the block and with a nut driver you can get at the lock nut on the allen screw on the eccentric collar if there is one, and if you're lucky the nut will loosen the allen at the same time. If you happen to not have the lock nut then you can probably get an allen wrench in to loosen it. Once the collar is loose then the clutch should really just slide right off with the bearing (key word "should"). You still end up with a mess to get the allen screws out of the PTO but it's certainly easier to work on once removed from the cranksshaft. Once it's off this way, you might even be able to cut the allens holding the bearing, remove the bearing and then maybe even unscrew the allens from the bottom if you can get ahold on them. At least you can probably salvage the pulley by ruining the bearing which is alot less costly. Be intersting if someone actually looked and checked into this possibility. The problem I had when I did it, was getting the basket pulley to move again. The crankshaft was all rusty in the area up close to the block and I had a heck of a time getting the basket pulley off. I know there are a couple tricks to it now, like drilling holes and pulling it off.

Terry D - glad you got the PTO clutch off the crankshaft. Sometimes the allen screw on the eccentric locking collar does have a lock nut, so what you saw is correct. The triangular spring "maybe" re-used if it still has enough spring tension. The only way I know for you to tell if it still has enough tension is to install and see if you can set it up correctly with the gauge. Charlie does sell the gauge separate, and also as part of the clutch rebuild kit. But since you busted the pulley apart I think you'd be better off getting one of Charlie's complete rebuilt clutch assemblies. Then you'd have everything new except the pulley and you wouldn't have to worry about the triangular spring, nor the 3 special screws with double nuts, nor the 3 ears, nor the fiber disc, nor the pressure plates, nor the 6 allen screws. If you do find a used clutch some place you have to make sure all these are good. And yes, if you have 2 of the thin fiber discs you can combine them and use them together. Make sure you line the **** up evenly. I believe the service manual indicates you can have 3 of those **** broke off and still use them. Good luck with it.

 

[hydroharry]

You guys with the QA42A throwers keep talking about the belt tensioner coming loose. I never had this problem over the years I was using one. Are you sure you're following the instructions in the Op Manual for setting the belt tension. It tells you to "Turn the belt tensioner counterclockwise until all slack is out of the belt, and then turn it 3 to 3 and 1/2 more turns". That's alot of tension, but I always set mine up that way, and would make a note of what position the tensioner handle was in, then went ahead and had all my fun without a problem. I recall couple times mine would move about 1/4 turn. I used to check and reset it each time I went to blow snow. You get so you know when you have the correct tension on the belt (it's part of knowing your tractor). I say that because I had to remove the side panels on my 1450 to see the belt, and even then it was hard to tell when the slack was all out of the belt. I just got so I knew - it's actually very tight. (I also had the ISO-mounts on the 1450 so maybe it gave me a differnt feel, and I didn't have the engine running when I set the tension, so maybe when it's running the combination of the ISO-mounts and the belt don't really cause the tensioner screw to back off on it's own)

Kraig, Oh Great One Keeper of the Photos - I almost hate to say this, but that pic you posted that shows the 3 Special screws on the PTO clutch. Are you sure those are "allen heads". They're so dang small in the pic they just look like dots.

 

[dtanner]

Harry Bursell

Ok Harry, I will take it apart and paint the PTO. and You do remember that the basket pulley has a set screw in it . Just how do you plan on it just sliding back. I know with the PTO out . The basket pulley can still be a bear to get off with out damaging it.They will bend and the wobble when put back on .btdt

I looked at installing my PTO yesterday and have a new bearing and locking collar. BUT the locking collar will just spin on the crank with my fingers. There is no way it will ever tighten up to hold the PTO bearing in place . Is there more than one size locking collar ?????


And one set screw with no nut !

 

[dbell]

Does anybody know if any of attachments from a JD 318 will interchange/fit a 682 hydro? I found a 42 snowplow and snowblower for cheap that came off of a JD 318. Thought Id ask since some of the JD/cub cadet rear wheels interchange.

 

[wshytle]

Don-

The locking collar will spin freely until you slide it over the "concentric?" part of the bearing. It will then spin until it starts to bind (as it's designed to do). Also, if you haven't cleaned up the crank with some emery cloth now's the time. It helps to have it shined up a bit. I even put a film of grease on the crank afterwards then wipe it off with a rag to help keep it clean. Most bearings have a stop ring inside that only allows the bearing to go on so far. If it doesn't the manual says to put it flush with the end of the crank then lock it down with the collar. Make sure you lock the collar in the same direction of the crank rotation...counterclockwise.

 

[dfrisk]

DAVID BELL - The ONLY attachments used on a 318 that would fit on a CC 682 would be attachments hooked to either a sleeve hitch, an add-on Cat O 3-pt, or hooked to the rear drawbar with a simple pin.

The Quick-Attach system on the CC's is LIGHT-YEARS ahead of what JD used on any of their tractors for attaching frt or mid-mount attachments.

 

[vthomley]

David Jonathan Bell - I'd put those John Deere things up for sale! That green Deere paint seems to be worth a lot more to people versus Yellow. I'm not saying its any better or worse, just on average it costs more.....and I don't know why. Sell them, with the profits buy your self a Cub Cadet Blade and Snowthrower and a few other attachments, goodies, things...

There I hope I wasn't appraising anything there...

On a better note my K341 got a little flat black paint last night. With any luck I'll have it back together yet this month.

I still have to decide on clutch and driveline parts yet. I have a 6 pin clutch driver. Do I got with a new Kevlar clutch or something else. Thsi is going into a Quietline gear drive, the motor will have solid engine mounts. - Dennis...?

 

[lpalma]

Harry,
The sg pully only goes so far back till it hits the bolt holding the arm for the sg .As for reaching that locking collar screw...It is possible if the planets are aligned with alpha centuri,but if it has that nut on there you are more than likely to break the allen set screw off.BTDT

Don T...
Silly question, do you have the locking collar on backwards?

 

[sblunier]

Harry,

If you pull a thrower hard and put the HP through them the belts work loose. IH had a clip to prevent it from happening, but they were rarely installed and were lost easily.

It is quite possible that some throwers with "dry" or harder turning adjusters don't back off, but if the adjuster is free, they will back out over time under hard loads.

 

[dfrisk]

HARRY - The upper adjusting bracket for the S/G on all my older tractors is attached to the front face of the block with a 5/16" hex head cap screw. And when the basket pulley is located properly there's only about 1/8th inch clearance between the head of the cap screw and the rolled edge of the basket pulley. Yes, there's bare 1" dia. crankshaft about 1" long behind the pulley but you can't move the pulley that much because of the cap screw. And to remove the cap screw you have to slide the pulley forward to get that cap screw out.

All the eccentric locking collars I've had on all my CC's have just had the set screw, no locking jam nut on them. Drop of blue Lock-Tight keeps them tight.

 

[kfreeman]

Steve,

I have seen that clip listed in the "parts lookup". I can't tell where it went or how it worked. At least twice I have asked if anyone had a picture, but I never got a response.

Your post is the first mention that I have seen about the factory clip. I need to do something, but I have wondered what was the original design.

We now have the bolt and locknut method, and Charlie's piece of baling wire, (is anyone using duct tape?). Can anyone tell us more about the factory clip?

 

[dfrisk]

VINCE - I'd talk to Julian and ask him how he feels about the new Kevlar disk in a working tractor. His new catalog says it has 85% of the torque capacity of his full metallic clutch, but I've heard the full metallic clutches are "On-Off Switches", no way to slip them when easing back & forth. If the Kevlar disk allows the clutch to be feathered like the OEM disk I'd go for it.

I still have the OEM disk in my #72 w/K321. On hard pulls I run out of traction L-O-N-G before the clutch runs out of bite, and I'm using the stock OEM pressure spring.

Interesting chart in the MWSC catalog. They make clutches that will hook-up 20, 30, 40, 50, 75, 90, 120, and 200 HP.

Lets see... two full size FARMALLS for 80 HP total, 50+30, 20 HP 982, 15HP @72, and a 10 HP #70, so 125 HP TOTAL between three CC's and 2 full size tractors and MWSC makes a clutch that will still handle 60% more HP. Guess I better buy a 1206 too!

 

[kmcconaughey]

The belt tension on my QA42 has never come loose. It moves freely when I intentionally loosen it or tighten it so it's not like it's got stiff threads. I don't recall it ever coming loose for my dad when it was his either. 44 years and never a problem with it coming loose. I must be doing something wrong...

 

[hydroharry]

Steve, Denny, Do-Da - ok, I'm sorta recalling now, since it's been years. Remember, this was on a PTO clutch that I was really stuck with, and trying to find a way to get it off since I wasn't using a puller (didn't make sense to me to use one at the time). I think maybe I un-screwed the bolt holding the S/G adjuster arm (as much as possible), then cut the head of the bolt off and unscrewed the remaining threads and it dropped out, and then I removed the S/G arm, and was able to slide the basket back against the crank. It's so hard to remember exactly. I was having a bear of a time with that PTO clutch. I also know there are 2 allen screws on that S/G pulley, and the 2 cutouts so you can get at them, but I just can't reall how exactly you can reach them when the clutch is in the correct position, unless as Do-Da mentioned, the planets line up. I must have done something to get the PTO clutch to move forward, is the only thing I can think of - like using a BFH on the pulley area (with some cushioning). I think I was afraid of really scoring or tearing up the crank, or the _ _ _ thing moved but then really locked up on me, or something like that. Anyway, I remember getting the PTO off, and then it was even worse getting the basket pulley off. I couldn't get behind it with anything to give me any leverage - but we all know when there's a will, there's a way - I think it was all bent up when I was done.

Steve - I can't remember my thrower belt adjuster screw turning hard. Seems I remember when I refurbed the unit, that that part was sloppy to begin with (has a king nut on the inside as I recall), and I set it up as snug as I could so there was no slop. Say I'd sure like to see what that IH Clip looked like myself. I don't see it mentioned in the Op Manual for the thrower. Any chance you could provide a "rendering"?

 

[sblunier]

Belt locking clip....

 

[dschwandt]

So... Ya have to pull the cotter pin, remove the clip then tighten the belt adjuster and reinstall the locking clip??? This while stuck in a snow bank!! (TIC)

threaded hole, 1/4" bolt & jam nut and a stbby 7/16" in my shirt pocket for me!

Really though, prolly 6 a' one or 1/2 doz t'other wnen it comes to solutions.

Easier ta find a bolt/nut combo that another locking clip!!

Dave S.

 

[kide]

Trade the cotter key for a hair pin clip and it's a pretty neat solution (I don't usually adjust belt tension in a snow bank and the clip could be pulled by hand, just like all the other ones on my 129) Anyone got a better pic, (3 view would be nice)??