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Archive through March 04, 2015
- Thread starter ecaye
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
Ed C.
I would check the linkage lever on the handle under the dash and make sure that it hasn't slipped.
I know it's a PITA to do, but I'm thinking that you moving the lever more one way than the other.
I had that happen on one of mine once. Just a thought.
I would check the linkage lever on the handle under the dash and make sure that it hasn't slipped.
I know it's a PITA to do, but I'm thinking that you moving the lever more one way than the other.
I had that happen on one of mine once. Just a thought.
Yeah, that kinda makes sense. Would almost have to be in the valve spool somewhere. Like maybe it is cracked just a hair in the down position and not returning fully because of a slipped clamp. Or could it be some kind of internal valve leak, like an o ring or something?
Has this just started recently and has the handle been pulling/pushing harder than usual?
Has this just started recently and has the handle been pulling/pushing harder than usual?
mhomrighausen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2001
- Messages
- 3,133
- displayname
- Marlin Homrighausen
Tom H. Welcome back. Were you able to snag that freebie 100 in Georgia that Charlie posted a picture of awhile back?
Ed C. I agree with Charlie. I recently had a young gentleman e:mail me that the linkage was the problem on his Cub. A snap ring had come loose.
Spring time is coming so I need to make a list of Cub stuff to order from CC Specialties.
Fancy just walked into the room. Said to say, "HI!!!" to everyone.
Ed C. I agree with Charlie. I recently had a young gentleman e:mail me that the linkage was the problem on his Cub. A snap ring had come loose.
Spring time is coming so I need to make a list of Cub stuff to order from CC Specialties.
Fancy just walked into the room. Said to say, "HI!!!" to everyone.
Well guys I took her apart and the only thing I could find was the Roll pin had slipped quite a bit out to the point it was almost out. I have not put the tractor back together yet! Hopefully that was it. Charlie if this works I'm putting you on speed dial. I will keep you posted. Thanks
Ed C.
Move the lift lever back and forth to make sure that it's pulling and pushing the plunger in the valve body the same amount in both directions before you put everything back together.
Move the lift lever back and forth to make sure that it's pulling and pushing the plunger in the valve body the same amount in both directions before you put everything back together.
It should spring back into the "neutral" position by itself and self center there.
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
.....And now the rest of the story.....
Big Steve got that western style straw hat (and won a pair of IH pliers) at the Red Power Showdown roll out at the IH photographic center picnic park near Hinsdale, IL in 1979. The "Branding Iron" / "Red Power" 86 series demonstrators were introduced at the event and pitted against Deeres, Cases, etc. He is reading the materials they passed out to the dealers that day and still has his name tag on his left shirt pocket.
Big Steve got that western style straw hat (and won a pair of IH pliers) at the Red Power Showdown roll out at the IH photographic center picnic park near Hinsdale, IL in 1979. The "Branding Iron" / "Red Power" 86 series demonstrators were introduced at the event and pitted against Deeres, Cases, etc. He is reading the materials they passed out to the dealers that day and still has his name tag on his left shirt pocket.
Those white hats never made the trip to Rock Island. But the RED POWER decals sure had an interesting history. Think there was supposed to be 4000 Red Power Special tractors built. My Boss told the girl who bought decals to get 10,000 decals. About a quarter way into the build they almost ran out of decals. Another 10,000 were rushed in. That time they made it just over half way thru the build and I think they got something like 8000 more when they needed less than 4000. At about the 3/4 point of production they got low again, and got a final 5000-6000 in and hide them up in the office. A supervisor had to come up to our office area every morning to get a day's supply of decals.
Every fork truck in the plant had red power decals on it, the broach that broached the splines in all the transmission gears had six stations, and every station had a red power decal, even seen trailers like the ones used to haul cabs from East Moline had decals on them. I even know a couple ended up on the inside of home workshop doors, but not until the whole build was complete.
Two of the circular Red Power decals, one on each side... And two Branding Iron decals, one for each side were used.
I had the same problem with my tires. All the tire room cared about was size and ply, brand was a distant secondary requirement only when it involved a brand preference order or a pair of mounted duals. The TACO TRACTORS were supposed to have all Good Year tires, so the tire room used Only GY tires of that size on EVERYTHING! GY couldn't make that many tires for Me and Allis Chalmers that used only GY, and anyone else like Massey Ferguson or White.
I had a "SPECIAL" pair of 18.4x38 8 ply tires shipped in from Europe from Good Year for a "SPECIAL" export tractor shipping to Europe. They looked like BFG radials. We even had a SPECIAL part number for them to keep then separate, and hopefully hidden until needed them!
Every fork truck in the plant had red power decals on it, the broach that broached the splines in all the transmission gears had six stations, and every station had a red power decal, even seen trailers like the ones used to haul cabs from East Moline had decals on them. I even know a couple ended up on the inside of home workshop doors, but not until the whole build was complete.
Two of the circular Red Power decals, one on each side... And two Branding Iron decals, one for each side were used.
I had the same problem with my tires. All the tire room cared about was size and ply, brand was a distant secondary requirement only when it involved a brand preference order or a pair of mounted duals. The TACO TRACTORS were supposed to have all Good Year tires, so the tire room used Only GY tires of that size on EVERYTHING! GY couldn't make that many tires for Me and Allis Chalmers that used only GY, and anyone else like Massey Ferguson or White.
I had a "SPECIAL" pair of 18.4x38 8 ply tires shipped in from Europe from Good Year for a "SPECIAL" export tractor shipping to Europe. They looked like BFG radials. We even had a SPECIAL part number for them to keep then separate, and hopefully hidden until needed them!
jlspicer
Well-known member
Lyndell,
On my diesels, I find it easier to loosen the engine and slide it forward. Sounds like a lot of work, but it isn't bad at all. You have to remove the battery and battery tray. Other small things are obvious when you are looking at the tractor. Only 4 bolts hold the engine mount into the frame. You unbolt from underneath and will have to jack up the front so you can move the front axle to get at those bolts. I usually pull off the front grill shell and hood just to get them out of the way. The throttle/kill wire as well as all electrical wires have enough slack that you can leave them all hooked up, except for the headlights if you remove the grill shell. This is the clif note version, not an indepth explanation. Any other questions, throw them out there. I do think it is possible to pull it without moving the engine, but it is very tight. If you do pull the driveshaft, replace the waterpump belt at the same time.
Under edit:
BTW, Welcome to the forum.
On my diesels, I find it easier to loosen the engine and slide it forward. Sounds like a lot of work, but it isn't bad at all. You have to remove the battery and battery tray. Other small things are obvious when you are looking at the tractor. Only 4 bolts hold the engine mount into the frame. You unbolt from underneath and will have to jack up the front so you can move the front axle to get at those bolts. I usually pull off the front grill shell and hood just to get them out of the way. The throttle/kill wire as well as all electrical wires have enough slack that you can leave them all hooked up, except for the headlights if you remove the grill shell. This is the clif note version, not an indepth explanation. Any other questions, throw them out there. I do think it is possible to pull it without moving the engine, but it is very tight. If you do pull the driveshaft, replace the waterpump belt at the same time.
Under edit:
BTW, Welcome to the forum.
Since when do we discuss CCC/MTD stuff on the main forum board!!!!!
