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Archive through March 04, 2012

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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aschumacher

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Aug 23, 2006
Messages
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Allen Schumacher
John S. Go up to the top of the Forum page and find Cub Cadet Parts Lookup and click on it. Click on the down arrow to the right of 'Find parts by Model'
Then hit Garden Tractors
I didnt see a 100 but 102 should be the same.
Then 'electric lighting' which gives you the lamp mounting setup.
 
Tim Z. Great find. You'll love that 124.

Chris W. Nice trailer full. You aren't going to part them are you?

Donald T. Spray bottle and water works only be brave and do like we did as kids. Warm up the old auto or truck engine, take a rinsed out Pepsi or Coca Cola bottle full of water, remove the air cleaner and pour it into the carburetor of moderately fast idling engine. You could clean an engine out pretty fast of any carbon buildup.

It's been a steady real light snow all day now and now the whole ground is covered. It's actually rather pretty outside.
 
The other day when I arrived home after work, Ryan had just finished up re-installing the camshaft correctly in his newly acquired 70. The PO had it installed wrong. Here are a couple of start up pictures.

It started right up.
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Shifting gears.
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Off and running.
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Reverse works and he's parking it.
236088.jpg

Not bad for a $100.00 tractor complete with fenders and reflectors, good front and rear tires. Angel, the kitties and I enjoy having Ryan come out and work on his Cubs.
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As of now the snow has turned to rain.
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And Fancy found the only spot without snow,
236090.jpg
 
Richard H - your 128 should have a lower cast iron grill housing that weighs around 40# (if I recall what others have said - I haven't weighed one). Not sure really why you might want to lighten the front unless you're wanting to pop wheelies. There is only one replacement that I know of that will fit your 128 and that's using the cast "aluminum" lower grill housing from a late model Quiet Line unit (1000/1200/1250/1450/1650). At some point during production IH changed to using an aluminum version. It has a slightly different shape towards the top where the Quiet Line side panels would fit but since you don't use those anyway you can make a direct conversion. The slotted holes on the bottom for mounting are really the same so it will bolt directly to the frame. There are either 3 or 5 holes on the top where the hinge bolts which will also allow you a direct bolt on for your hood. I have no idea what this aluminum lower grill may cost these days but they had been sought after by pullers since they were light. Back in the day before I turned into a fully Hydro nut I did have a 1200 gear drive with the aluminum grill and I would pop wheelies if I was to quick releasing the clutch. Lets be careful out there!!!

John S - way over there in Birmingham, the Midlands, UK!!!!! You might want to step up to 55watt halogen bulbs for your 100 so you can burn thru the fog. There were actually 2 different light assemblies used on 70/100 tractors. The 1st early style had 3 metal ring parts, and the later version had only 2 rings. In all cases the metal goes against the bulb. If you have the 3 ring version it's a bit hard to figure out. The 1st ring that goes over the bulb and provides a cosmetic brite shinny almost chrome ring seen thru the front of the mounting plate. The 2nd ring goes inside the 3rd ring to provide the right spacing fit. The 3rd ring does have 2 slotted areas for the bulb alignment (so the bulbs remain horizontal and don't rotate) and the 3rd ring has the 2 holes for inserting the light assembly housing. You may find instructions with pictures of the 2 styles in the Manuals section of the Forum.

Marlin H - that was a terrific find on the Model 70. How did you discover the cam was installed incorrectly. Were there specific symtoms like difficulty starting, wouldn't hardly run or not at all?

Ok Guys - my son was going home yesterday evening when he had a sudden attach of "yellar n'white fever". By the time he got his truck started again he had to race home. When he got there he found this in his bed!!!! It has a K341 13fin Kohler. He has been informed his fever is extremely severe and likely will never subside. Any suggestions?

236101.jpg


236102.jpg
 
To add to the confusion:
Model 70 and 100:
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Model 102:
236107.gif
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Thanks to Hydro Harry for the link to repair the stuck releif valve! I fired it up again today and the wheels on the 127/bus go round. I used the opportunity to run the rear end and use som 80 grit paper to de-rust the rotors. Tomorrow I may take my first ride on a HYDRO tractor.
236110.jpg
 
Edward "Hot Rod" Lincoln - glad I was able to help from a distance, and to hear you got some relief (valves working). As for the wheels going round and round, question is do they go forward and backward? Also, did you get a good look at the trunion on the side of the hydro pump? Can't tell from your pic how worn the slots are where the button and springs are inserted. If your hydro jumps or takes off on you without hardly moving the speed control lever then you likely have a worn trunion. There's info in the FAQ on that repair so you can get smooth infinitely variable speed control.


John S and Frank C - thanks to Frank for posting the diagrams. I think I'd ignore the top diagram since it doesn't have a numbered breakdown but does indicate a 1piece and 2piece retaining ring was used. Upon viewing the 2nd or lower diagram I believe part no. 7 is the retaining ring. The early styles had part no. 7 in 2 pieces and the later styles it was 1 piece.
Sure hope this helps John figure it out over in the UK, so you don't have to keep burning the mid-night oil and can step up to electric lighting on your tractor. And, I just noticed that Allen S had posted a note that the 102 lighting should be the same - that is correct if John has a 1 piece retaining ring (part no. 7 in Frank's diagram). The problem we all have here is not knowning which style rings John has.
John - you may need to post some pics of your rings and then we can tell you the rest of the story.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (but they can get real Ornery)
 
Harry B.- The 7hp engines have what the manual states as a "spark advance" on the cam. This makes the cam a two peice part. I installed the engine and it just backfired. I watched the points, and they were opening on the intake stroke. This led me to believe that it was 180 degrees out of time. I thought the PO timed the cam/crank gear wrong. I went to Marlin's last Wednesday and tore it completely apart. This is where I learned that the cam is two peices (The cam with the tappet lobes and gear are one peice, the points plunger lobe is a seperate peice). There is a dot on the gear and the points lobe that have to be facing the same way. Simply timed the two peices, timed the engine, and put it back together. It did the faithful "pop off" on the second or third crank with the S/G.

A big thank you to Marlin for letting me work on it at his place and posting the pics. I think hes just as proud of my $100 deal as I am.
 
Harry: I took out the releif valve on the left side of the tractor. I'm not sure if it was the F or the R but the axles turn both ways. There seems to be about 1/16" back and forth to the spring and end cups on the hydro linkage.
 
spent most of the day unloading everything and forgot this picture off topic but i guess he was a homelite man also i only wanted the sharpener,
236120.jpg
 
Hi Thanks for the help on the cub lights I have now fitted them no one in the UK to ask.
 
Hydro Harry,, In an attempt to assist your son in recovery of his fever, I'll buy that 169 to ease his symptoms!
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John's Lights:
236135.jpg

236136.jpg

...and Frank gets a lesson in resizing pics on his new computer that he's been putting off. Thanks for the inspiration, John!
(I like the European-style wheel weights on the Original).
happy.gif
 
Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)

Frank , I thought of putting a set of head lights on my 100 , but I never run it at night .
Quite smoking today 5 hrs ago . I got the shakes so bad I think I will have a
beerchug.gif


I hope to drop the 12 K into the 125 today
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Frank C

I understand you still smoke. To bad ,are you speaking from experence??

I`am having a bear of a time getting the broken bolt out that would hold the screen over the drive shaft. If this keeps up the drill will come out.

236142.jpg
 
Harry, you and your son are making me VERY jealous with all these 169,s. If he needs remote storage for it let me know or maybe some cub trading needs to take place.

Harry I have quickly bacame a hydro nut also,, nothing like the 1x9 series
 
What model/s did the "Super Steer" front axle come form? Is it a bolt in set up on a quiet line?
 
i have a question for any one out there with a 82 series tractor im in need of the sattle that hold the front axel, i have a 1250, and i found a weld in replacemnt for the 82 series from one of the sponsers. my question is, are the frames the same width and would the sattles be the same, ore close enough to make it work properly.
this is the part in question. thank you
236145.jpg
 

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