NORM - If your talking about the seal in the block, the one on the PTO end of the crankshaft, YES, the seal goes in the block before installing the crankshaft. Same with the seal in the bearing housing/blower plate, seal goes in before assembling the plate to the block.
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Archive through March 02, 2012
- Thread starter wshytle
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mfrade
Well-known member
YES TOM, I CAN HEAR YOU!
Send it over, I'll weld it up!
Send it over, I'll weld it up!
NORM - I always swipe some heavy oil, assembly lube, or grease over the sealing surface of the seal and along the OD of the shaft that enters the seal. Also check the shaft for nicks, sharp edges, etc. that would/could damage the lip of the seal.
There's only a short length of the crankshaft on a CC spec Kohler you have to inspect & lube. Last summer I replaced an axle seal, gasket & felt on the rear axle of my Super H that had been leaking since I replaced the OTHER seal, gasket & felt about 10 yrs ago. The ID of the seal is the exact same size as the OD of the axle bar over a foot long & 2-1/2 inches in diameter with two 1/2" wide keyways. Took a lot of grease! I was glad I bought all the parts to do both sides at the same time. The whole rear wheel has to be removed, 5 ft tall tire, 300# of rear wheel weights, cast iron wheel center, 38" dia steel rim, and a bit of calcium chloride fluid in the tube, I wanted to do the repair when I had another reason to work on that side of the tractor. At least on this wheel I had another loader tractor to handle the wheel when it was off the axle. Last time I had to man-handle the wheel.
There's only a short length of the crankshaft on a CC spec Kohler you have to inspect & lube. Last summer I replaced an axle seal, gasket & felt on the rear axle of my Super H that had been leaking since I replaced the OTHER seal, gasket & felt about 10 yrs ago. The ID of the seal is the exact same size as the OD of the axle bar over a foot long & 2-1/2 inches in diameter with two 1/2" wide keyways. Took a lot of grease! I was glad I bought all the parts to do both sides at the same time. The whole rear wheel has to be removed, 5 ft tall tire, 300# of rear wheel weights, cast iron wheel center, 38" dia steel rim, and a bit of calcium chloride fluid in the tube, I wanted to do the repair when I had another reason to work on that side of the tractor. At least on this wheel I had another loader tractor to handle the wheel when it was off the axle. Last time I had to man-handle the wheel.
jchamberlin
Well-known member
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- Jul 19, 2010
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- Jeremiah Chamberlin
Greg: I'm not sure that stuff is commonly available anymore, one post I read (on another forum) said that it had been replaced by another part number, something about the ammonium salts eating up copper or something to that effect.
If I were to locate it, is it applied to a disassembled engine or is it added to the tank?
Just curious . . .
If I were to locate it, is it applied to a disassembled engine or is it added to the tank?
Just curious . . .
Jeremiah The spray cans are getting hard to find. I spray it into the carb on a warm engine,you'll have to keep the RPS's up so the engine doesn't stall. I use it on my bike too and was really surprise how clean the valves were after using about a 4th of a can.
Ah to clean the carbon out of the combustion chamber all that is needed is H2o, Water sprayed into a running engine will cause the carbon to break up .The engine must be hot and just use a mister not a heavy spray of water. Add the water through the crab with your finger in control of the governor so the engine does not stall.This works BTDT , You will see pieces of crap get blown out of the muffler . Works for me and it is cheap lol.
Question for you guys. I am building a cart to pull behind the tractor, the poly dump carts just werent tough enough or big enough for hauling wood. I picked up a pair of 5x4.5 hub/spindles thinking I'd like to keep the trailer wheels the same as the cub wheels - a spare would work on both and I have a couple extra sets laying around. But I didnt realize the studs were slightly bigger, 1/2" vs 7/16 on the cub. If I drill em out to fit the 1/2 is that going to ruin them for using on the cub again? I dont really plan on swapping back and forth, but just curious if they would still work or not.
tzingleman
Active member
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- Feb 22, 2012
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- 34
- displayname
- Tim Zingleman
Hey everyone. I have an update on the '68 124. I got the new sediment bowl assy in the mail and installed it. I also installed new seals in the carb, so now there are no fuel leaks. I mounted the new air filter housing and put a switch on the power wire going to the ignition coil.
The tractor is now running well and is ready to haul some dirt around. Once I'm done with that, I'll look at prettying it up a little and possibly rewiring it properly. Here are some pics and link to a video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HBuCWCBbq4&feature=youtu.be
The tractor is now running well and is ready to haul some dirt around. Once I'm done with that, I'll look at prettying it up a little and possibly rewiring it properly. Here are some pics and link to a video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HBuCWCBbq4&feature=youtu.be
hydroharry
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- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,468
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Tim ZZZZZZZZ - it's looking better. I watched and heard the video, and the engine sounds decent, didn't see smoke either. I think you'll find you have quite a machine. I do wonder about your hood - the paint on most of the tractor doesn't look bad so I can't figure out what might have happened to the hood.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and their engines need to be kept covered).
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and their engines need to be kept covered).
Wow, Dennis, sounds like a job!
Quick question: In the Kohler manual it states the seals have to be inset a certain distance from the outside surface. The CC manual says flush. Which do you go by, or does it matter?
Quick question: In the Kohler manual it states the seals have to be inset a certain distance from the outside surface. The CC manual says flush. Which do you go by, or does it matter?
tzingleman
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- Tim Zingleman
Thank you Tom and Harry.
The hood could have come from a different maching for all I know. The front of the tractor where the grill mounts is slightly loose and the hood is a little bent. The hood will drop into place, but only with a little pulling in one way or another.
I'll probably pull the hood off, straighten it, paint it, then put it back on. Once I get the hood to drop into place after that, I'll look into tightening whatever is loose up front to lock it in place.
My wife and I are expecting twins in a couple of months, so I'm happy to have it running to the point where I can fill in the mosquito pits that the previous owners left at the back end of the property.
The hood could have come from a different maching for all I know. The front of the tractor where the grill mounts is slightly loose and the hood is a little bent. The hood will drop into place, but only with a little pulling in one way or another.
I'll probably pull the hood off, straighten it, paint it, then put it back on. Once I get the hood to drop into place after that, I'll look into tightening whatever is loose up front to lock it in place.
My wife and I are expecting twins in a couple of months, so I'm happy to have it running to the point where I can fill in the mosquito pits that the previous owners left at the back end of the property.
Gary S,
I moved some of my tractors last fall with a bobcat and chains. I ran the chain and hooks from the front under the front axle up the back side between the axle and tie rod and placed the hook onto the top crossbar section of the axle. When it was tight the chain was looped 3 / 4 around the front axle. I moved 6 tractors that way and never had a problem with any of them. Most of them I kept the rear wheels somewhat on the ground and tilted the tractors over 45 degrees up. A couple of them (no loose parts) I picked completely off the ground. I never had a problem with the chain slipping.
The picture below shows my attempt at trying to keep the chain separated (oak board) at the hood which didn’t work out. I found it better to have the chain in front of the grill at the start and lift from there. If I had some sort of spreader that would clamp to the chain I feel it would have worked even better. Anyway, I was able to lift the tractors and move them using that method.
Rich W.
I moved some of my tractors last fall with a bobcat and chains. I ran the chain and hooks from the front under the front axle up the back side between the axle and tie rod and placed the hook onto the top crossbar section of the axle. When it was tight the chain was looped 3 / 4 around the front axle. I moved 6 tractors that way and never had a problem with any of them. Most of them I kept the rear wheels somewhat on the ground and tilted the tractors over 45 degrees up. A couple of them (no loose parts) I picked completely off the ground. I never had a problem with the chain slipping.
The picture below shows my attempt at trying to keep the chain separated (oak board) at the hood which didn’t work out. I found it better to have the chain in front of the grill at the start and lift from there. If I had some sort of spreader that would clamp to the chain I feel it would have worked even better. Anyway, I was able to lift the tractors and move them using that method.
Rich W.
Tim, Harry, Somebody used a torch of some kind, mabey not to cut but to at least warm up something. I had the same area on the drivers side hood of my jeep cherokee and I know how it got there. Looks like they took a couple tries on that hood.
glippert
Well-known member
Bill J - The holes in the gasket are not in the same location as the holes in the pan that mount to the rails. You'll have to use the pan.
Here's a picture of my broken oil pan that shows both the cradle mounting hole (broken from previous owner before I did the cradle mod) and the holes that mount the pan to the block.
Here's a picture of my broken oil pan that shows both the cradle mounting hole (broken from previous owner before I did the cradle mod) and the holes that mount the pan to the block.
