• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

Archive through June 30, 2014

IH Cub Cadet Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Dennis did you read the entire post? I never said just the teaser spring disabled the tractor but when you combine all the worn parts YES it did stop and disable the gear drives that I had.

Dennis it's sound like your saying the gear drives do not wear out, I wish mine would of been like that. they would still be here

Like Ive said just one user excperience with a cub,

And Since I do not know the history of theses cubs their first 40 years I can't tell how much they where used. but with the way they where worn out, I would guess ALOT
 
Jim S.

Check your Email RE: 582 specs
 
Jim... The shifter lever/rod/arm is probably broke loose from the cup, or, the roll pin that orients the cup to the rod is broken or missing. Possibly both...

IMHO, that would, instead, be a barganing chip in YOUR favor

I did a repair on one of my 1000's like that last winter. I believe I posted pictures on here about that.
 
Mike, I like the pictures they are so sharp and I am just not familiar with these, do they just screw in and do you need to put loctite in? Thanks
 
Rodney I dont think loctite is needed after the insert is intalled you tap down those four legs and they lock it in place. I think..
 
Rodney, you just drill/tap the size required, thread insert in and tap down locking tangs. as i said, they make an installation tool that sets depth, then flip over and use to set tabs but a pin punch works fine, you can use locktite but not required
 
Harry, my 169 muffler is 12 1/2 inchs long with the endcaps

outlet exstension is 1 inch long

can diameter is about 4 1/2 inchs and 5 inch total with end cap flange
 
Steve B. - I remember your post here about breaking in your 1st 582 at a PD. Nothing but praise for the tractor & B&S engine.

JEFF - Yes, I read the whole post, both of them in fact, plus Harry's. Like I said in my post, a T/O bearing Failure will park a GD, but a worn noisy T/O bearing really won't, but running the tractor will accelerate wear on the release lever. The release lever pivot bracket... worn holes really won't park a tractor, but with the stronger clutch spring, those pivot brackets have been known to pull out of the steering pedistal, the pedistal should be reinforced. And the two pads that are supposed to contact the T/O bearing do wear on the levers, but the original one on my 72 still works fine.

I've made this comment here several times before, but on a "working tractor", one used to mow, pull carts, even Plow Days, etc... You really don't need the red and especially the yellow clutch spring, they just KILL the throw-out bearing and the top reducting housing front bearing. In order to push the pedal down, you have to add material to the release lever, which screws up the geometery of the clutch linkage which effects how your clutch & brakes work.
 
On a previous model 102 I had considered buying, the original owner neglected the tractor so bad, as to allow the throw out bearing to wear just about clean through the release lever. I could not even stop the drive line to select a gear. The steering was way beyond shot,....I offered him 250$ for it and he thumbed his nose up at it. I'll tell ya!

Now, the model 71 I just got rid of { to a good home } for my 1450, that had 75# steel rear wheel weights with 4-link cleated tire chains. Still had the original pressure spring, and still dug deep holes for traction just fine. I would not up grade to a red, blue, or yellow unless it was justifiable. I have a really nice set up on my model 72,... the release lever yoke was replaced with a block and grease fitting!

Aside from that, things in the International 1450 Cub Cadet department are looking good, and running just fine! Hope to get it out to the Ashtabula County Antique Engine Club this weekend of July 4-6th ! It will be the first of many a show for this 1450. BTW: I had the Quiet line quieted down, and you just would not believe it! Then I installed new flex disks, and now have an ever-so slight vibration. However, in time I think the new disks will settle in, and I plan to inspect, and tighten that particular hardware if need be!

Enjoying the knowledge and group respect for each other, and the stout devotion to these International Harvester Cub Cadets, thank you!
 
your_image.gif



Yeah, I shouldn't have sold the 1st one...red one had 19T second in CI rear and rebuilt motor.....oh well.....

New one needs a few things, but nice little machine!

your_image.gif
 

Latest posts

Back
Top