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Archive through June 28, 2012

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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jbaker

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Nov 10, 2008
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jeff l baker
Ned. S. you can try swapping the blue and gray but the yellor goes to F.

Let me ask you this,, what was the reason your V/R was bad and changed??
 
DAVID A CALKINS

I did not find the site you mentioned (pullingtractor .com ).Could you post a link for me please.I would like to have a few for my Cubs .

The last rain we had was heavy rain. It added 4" to my 24' round pool in just one day.We could not use the pool because it really needed the water. all that rain did save me some money.
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I'd like some daignostic help from the professionals if you wouldn't mind...

782, KT17 Series II, about 1300 hours.

Smokes heavy at idle, and appears to clean up at high RPM unless underload. All that said, after mowing the lawn (45 min) I feel like I'm covered with oil, so the hi RPM may still be burning and I just don't see it. Engine runs absolutely flawless (great power, able to idle at crazy low rpms, easy start etc)

Plugs are super clean and dry. Maybe a light gray ash on the electrode if anything. Breather is belching air, and crank case is highly pressurized if you pull the oil cap off with the engine running it's like a vac in reverse.

I was initially thinking new pistons and rings, but am a bit confused by the condition of the plugs. In my head, I was expecting to see a heavy coat of oil / burned oil residue if I was by passing the rings.

Before I tear into this, could this be a valve problem, or is there somewhere else that I should be looking?

Thanks for the input.
 
Supposedly we all like pictures. I finished the refurbishment of this 70 this morning. This is the second time I have owned this tractor. When I first bought it, the tractor had a lot of surface rust and pits, but I used it to plow with in the "Mile of IH" plow day in October 2008 and then sold it. The last owner started the refurbishment on it and then got tired of it, and I bought it back a couple of months ago. The engine had just been rebuilt when I bought it the first time, so this was basically just a cosmetic refurbishment. It needed some of the paint he had done touched-up, and the fenders and white parts repainted. The white spots you see in the pictures is the 102* sunlight filtering through the tree leaves it is parked under. I have just a couple of weeks to try to get it's bigger brother, a 100, done for Red Power Round-Up, but with the heat here (like every place else) that may not happen.
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James,

There was a breather redesign on the KT series engines. Ask your dealer to check back into the older service notes, he may be able to help. Problems with the 1st generation breather cause symptoms like your engine has.

Replacement with the "new" version will address that problem, after all nobody wants to feel as if you are covered in oil residue. It is not too costly and it will help the engine last.

The typical KT with a good breather will see high crankcase vacuum, often in the 8-18" range.
 
Kohler Parts Bulletin # 178 covers the breather issue. You need part # 52 035 02-S. The change involves a new style of breather, with a reed riveted to the main plate. They do help alot!
 
Jim D,

Does that Kohler bulletin apply to Series I or Series II models or both?
 
Paul- Very nice refurb! To me there is no better looking cub than the 70/100 series with the round fenders, rear ag tires and front tri ribs.
 
Jim D-
Thanks for that info on the Bulletin #178! I have a Mag 18 that blows COPIOUS amounts of oil through the breather and into the air-cleaner which then dribbles all over the top of the engine. (Not cool!) I always thought it was in need of a re-ring, but this is probably the better solution. (Not to mention much easier if it works.)

Does the old breather assembly disintegrate or somehow otherwise wear out to cause this problem?

Paul-
As usual..........
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I've got a few pieces missing from the mower carrier on the 109, a spring and some mounting pins. My question is - any reason I can't use the carrier from my 1650? If I can use it - that will be the band-aid to get this 109 mowing sooner than later.

Also, my 1650 has a 44A deck and the 109 has a 441U deck. Any differences I should be aware of?
 
Bill-

Everything will switch right over to the 109. The belt won't fit because the pto height isn't the same.
 
Paul B. That 70 looks fabulous!!! Thank You for posting the pictures.

In the morning, I'm going to rescue a 70 that otherwise will be parted out by the owner. I really don't need another tractor.
 
Paul,

When I saw those pictures I had to go and make sure mine was still there!
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The only difference I could tell is, mine has a amp gauge on the left side of the dash.
Nice looking 70!

Marlin,

Go ahead and rescue that 70 and just send it on to me!
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Paul,
I have since added a grote tail light and a lift lever latch (wire).


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MARTY - hehe... Somebody else looked at the installation instructions for the amp gauge and thought, "What a Stupid place to mount the gauge!" on your tractor.

Our old 1965 #70 lead a hard life, it mowed two LARGE farm yards every week for most of it's life, seems like we went thru two batteries a year most years, and Dad added the amp gauge in about '66. Turns out the S/G, voltage regulator, etc was all good, just the cheap batteries available at the time wouldn't hold up.

I think the instructions showed mounting the gauge on the back edge of the steering console between the ignition switch & starter button. Right in the way where you'd hit it with your knees constantly. And that sheared edge on the mounting plate could be lethal too.

I think my 70 will become a 100 when it gets refurbished, it'll have a K241 for sure.
 
Marty,
The last owner put an amp meter on this one, on the back of the dash like Denny described. That was the first thing I removed. When you are tall and weigh more than you should, that is not a good place for a sharp edge piece of metal bracket. I figure that if it starts everytime I get on it, it must be charging, if it doesn't, something's not working
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Too Hot here also but I did use the cub 129 to move some hay and buckets of h20 to the goats remote pen.

Chuck D I saw your ad for a drive hub for a 1x9
I once used a clutch drive side from a 128 I did modifey it a little but it works perfect.
My computor should be back soon with some pics
 

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