Archive through June 27, 2012

[bproctor]

Clint

I can't speak specifically to the 682 but any electric clutch that I have seen (I've seen many) has a protective coating on the windings. If the winding touches the casing there is a potential for a short. When it shorts out the clutch will not work correctly or at all and in some cases I have witnessed it will completely shut the engine down. I was told that was due to a type of surge protector (for lack of a better description) built into the wiring. In this particular case the copper was rubbing on the clutch casing and sparks would shot out around the clutch as it was activated (looked like a pinwheel) until it would shut everything down.

Also, a coil with a broken wire can work fine when cold. As the winding heats up and expands the wire separates and failure occurs. Seems like this could be the same concept on the clutch winding.

A way to narrow the culprit down is to do a resistance test on the clutch after it stops working or just do a direct connection to listen for the clicking of the clutch plate if no click then current is not flowing all the way through the winding or its shorted out. This would eliminate switches or other malfunctions.

I hope the Old Heads will agree or tell me where I screwed up!

 

[bproctor]

For those that don't know, I'm a railroader of 16 years (a pup or a kid). The people with many years of seniority are referred to as "Old Heads". In my case I use 30 years as the cut off. 30 years or more your an Old Head. Less than 30 your a pup. Old Head is a term of respect. I don't go to a boss when I have a question I go to an Old Head. They have been through the situation many times and have the knowledge to answer the questions.

When I refer to the many people on this forum, that have been around for years and have disassembled and reassembled these Cubs more times than I can imagine, as "Old Heads" it is done so with respect. Respect for the knowledge and ingenuity and the willingness to pass that knowledge along to the rest of us pups.

I know ask many more questions than I answer but some day I'll have all that knowledge and be able to pass it down. I guess people will be using zero gravity garden tractors by then.

 

[bproctor]

I must be the only one that wakes up thinking about Cubs.


Digger, any production of the pin presses? I searched the company yesterday but didn't come up with anything.

 

[mgonitzke]

Clint-

Put it back on and try adjusting the air gap as per the service manual first. If you don't have the service manual, it's in the 'manuals' section towards the bottom of the main page.

 

[bpientka]

Clint,
Have you tried to adjust the clutch? I had the similar issue and it turned out the clutch just needed some adjustment. Basically the clearance adjustment was to much but it only effected things when they were hot.

 

[fcurrier]

Don T.: It was raining pretty hard - hence the wet knees.
Wayne: What happened was I'd been deliberating selling that 123 - even had it on the front lawn with a for sale sign on it over Memorial Day Weekend. Then I decided I couldn't sell it for what it MIGHT someday be worth to me for parts, so I'd store it in the metal quonset out back. When I went to take it out of the Cubhouse it started POURING rain. Bad kharma. So I mounted the duals on the rear to match those oversized fronts and will use it to pull the lawn roller. All Cubs have beauty and, usually, usefulness, too.

 

[jchamberlin]

Wayne, thanks for straightening me out on the manual PTO, I guess Dave's dyslexia was contagious.

 

[dschwandt]

RAIN???!!!

And, pray tell,....just what in the world exactly is that??

Dave S.

 

[dtanner]

Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)

We got so much rain here yesterday that my 24' pool now has about 4" more water in it this morning.I had called for the water truck and now this am cancelled that order.

Question to all !

can the metal governor gear still be bought and who sells them ? I have an engine here a 14 hp k that a friend has ask me to install a new governor gear , clean the carb and get the engine running. I don`t have much faith in the plastic ones after installing one in my 149 and could never get it not to run wild. I don`t see anything wrong with the plastic gear but it will not function as it should. Thanks Later Don T

 

[bjamison]

Checked the oil pan on the 109 this morning with a magnet. It is definately not steel/cast iron. It's aluminum. The drain plug is steel...

I'll be very careful tightening down this engine.

 

[dfrisk]

BILL J. - I had an alum oil pan on a K301 in my 129 that had five of the twelve blower vanes on the flywheel missing, all of them in a row. It vinbrated a LOT. The threads in the alum. oil pan were shot. I heli-coiled them and they worked O-K for several years, but the inserts started wearing out the alum also. I'm not a big fan of the alum. pans. Hope your's has good threads yet.

DON - Every Kohler I've had, has had the plastic governor gear. And I've never replaced one yet... I've never even seen a metal gear, except a picture here or someplace else. I'm sure you can't buy them anymore.

 

[bjamison]

Dennis - I'll check the flywheel - thanks!

I've never understood why Kohler would go the trouble of making a stout cast iron engine and then using an aluminum oil pan - especially if the mounting of the engine is via the oil pan.

 

[dfrisk]

BILL - Kohler of course has their own iron foundry, it's the same company that makes CI sinks & bathtubs, so engine blocks were easy for them. One thing I don't know is if they poured aluminum. Most foundries don't like to pour ferrous & non-ferrous both, bad things can happen.

I would suspect that the alum pan dissipated heat better than the CI one, but IMO, the extra bit of heat dissipation isn't worth the loss of the strength of the engine mounting. If Kohler was worried about heat dissipation, they could have put ribs on the pan to increase surface area for dissipating heat. I'm sure they had their own pattern shop, most foundries do, been a cheap & easy thing for them to do. The oil pan on my Onan in the 982 is also aluminum, and ribbed.

 

[wshytle]

Bill-

There are cast iron oil pans out there too. I don't know how "available" they are but they are out there. I would guess they were some of the first produced but I'm not up on my history. I've helicoiled an aluminum pan before with good results (so far). I know my fathers 128 has stripped oil pan issues but I'll cross that bridge when I get there.

Like Dennis said, maybe/hopefully yours are fine.

 

[bkomischke]

Hi Folks! My first post here to the forum. This is a great site, and has been a lot of help to me. I have a 1977 1650 Hydrostatic that I've been trying to bring back to life. When I was a kid here at the lake house this was what I used to mow the lawn and various other yard work. I grew up and got busy with life, and now after my dad's passing a while back I've moved back to the lake house, and one of my projects has been to get the Cub running again. Briefly, here's what I've done so far, and the problem that I'm stuck at right now.

I found the Cub back in the pole barn, with the carb partly disassembled last year. It looked like my dad might have started to work on the machine, but lost interest or something, because I could tell that the machine hadn't been touched for a while. I changed all the fluids, reassembled the carb, put in a new battery, and some fresh gas, and lo and behold it started right up. I had to fiddle with the choke a little to keep it running, so I figured I had some carb work to do, but everything seemed to be working otherwise.

I used the machine some last summer and fall, and eventually put it away for the winter.

This spring I went to start it for the first time, and it started up and ran for a while, but then died, and I couldn't get it to catch and keep running again, so I decided that this was a good reason to do the whole carb rebuild that I thought about last year.

I bought a carb kit for it, disassembled the carb, cleaned everything, installed the carb kit, new gaskets, etc., reinstalled the carb, and it started up - yay! I went through the high and low speed adjustment as described in the owners manual, and seemed to have it tuned in pretty good, and running nice. I shut it down, and reinstalled the airbox, went to start it up again, turned the key, and nothing.

So that's where I'm at right now, turning the key, and nothing happens. The starter doesn't crank at all. I think (it's kind of a faint sound so I'm not sure) the first time I turn the key I hear a single click sound from somewhere. If I try turning the key again right after, I don't hear the click, but if I let the machine sit for a while and try again I think I hear the click the first time again. The battery's fine, and there's electricity going through the system, the headlights turn on.

I'm looking for some help on troubleshooting this problem, where to begin, etc. Is this a starter issue? Coil?, something related to the safety switch built into the brake pedal (you have to have the brake pedal depressed to start the engine)? I'm not the most mechanical guy in the world, but I've gotten this far, and I'd like to fix this problem myself if I could rather than hauling the tractor in somewhere.

Thanks in advance for any help or advice

Bob

 

[nqueensland]

Bob- Sounds like you've done great getting your 1650 back up and running. One quick thing to do and I think is more than likely your problem is to wiggle the PTO clutch switch while trying to crank the engine. For some reason the power to the starter runs through that switch and if the closed contact gets a little corroded it won't turn over. My 1450 will do the same thing if it sits a while.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Bob, WELCOME!

First thing to check would be the safety switches. There should be one on the brake pedal rockshaft. Here's a link to the wiring diagram you'll have to scroll down the page about half way down to find the one for the 1650.

 

[stanner]

The treads in the 149's pan were starting to feel a little loose, so it was fitted with studs and nuts. The studs were loctited in.

 

[dhess]

Need a new carb for my 14hp kohler. Are the new walbro replacement carbs without the high speed adjustment working out OK? Been looking for older carb to rebuild, but they either want a fortune or the throttle shaft has a lot of movement and then your spending more money to fix that, with no guarantee that you don't mess it up. What's my best options? thanks

 

[wshytle]

Bob-

If you're hearing a click when the key is turned I'd check the solenoid. If the pto switch is causing it there wouldn't even be a click.