Got a few goodies at Red Power this weekend.
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Archive through June 26, 2011
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My 104 stick shift became very sloppy and loose today. I am able to rock it from side to side while still in gear. A pin or something must have broken. i see there are several bolts and a plate to hold the shift in. is it possible to remove these bolts and plate and fix this problem? Thank you for any help
robert walker
I bet the cup in the shifter has the weld let go and is letting the shifter move around. take the four bolts out and pull the shifter and have a look at the cup and see if its floating around. Its an easy fix to tack weld it back in place.BTDT
I bet the cup in the shifter has the weld let go and is letting the shifter move around. take the four bolts out and pull the shifter and have a look at the cup and see if its floating around. Its an easy fix to tack weld it back in place.BTDT
Hi all,
I'm a newby and now hooked on Cub Cadets (thanks to a neighbor friend) who has guided me in the purchase of a 1450.
The engine needs new mounts and I have found mounts that do not require the rubber. They hard mount to the frame like the 169 engines do.
Does anyone have experience with these and is this an exceptable fix?
I'm a newby and now hooked on Cub Cadets (thanks to a neighbor friend) who has guided me in the purchase of a 1450.
The engine needs new mounts and I have found mounts that do not require the rubber. They hard mount to the frame like the 169 engines do.
Does anyone have experience with these and is this an exceptable fix?
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Dave S.-
Use the OEM mounts, you won't be sorry. It will rattle a lot more with solid mounts. If the OEM mounts are installed correctly, there will be minimal vibration at full throttle.
Use the OEM mounts, you won't be sorry. It will rattle a lot more with solid mounts. If the OEM mounts are installed correctly, there will be minimal vibration at full throttle.
mpatterson
Well-known member
I got my steering fixed up the other day. Will give it a test run tonight likely when I mow the lawn. There is a "slight" stiffness to it, but its WAY better than what it was the other day!
Thanks for the help guys!
Nice find at Red Power Charlie. I like the earthcavator and the seed bed preper. Too bad you did not get the seed tub with it like Merk has. Look forward to see them hooked up to a Cub!
Thanks for the help guys!
Nice find at Red Power Charlie. I like the earthcavator and the seed bed preper. Too bad you did not get the seed tub with it like Merk has. Look forward to see them hooked up to a Cub!
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Brian-
It's not the same...solid-mounting the engine in a QL will be less rigid than the mounting in any previous tractor because the engine isn't bolted directly to the frame in the QL tractors. I don't know about you, but I like being able to feel my feet after I'm done mowing.
It's not the same...solid-mounting the engine in a QL will be less rigid than the mounting in any previous tractor because the engine isn't bolted directly to the frame in the QL tractors. I don't know about you, but I like being able to feel my feet after I'm done mowing.
Dave S. & Mike P.
Something else to consider when using solid mounts in a Quietline compared to the 1X9's.
QL's have aluminum pans and the 1X9's have cast iron.
It's much easier to damage aluminum than cast and not a good idea IMHO to solid mount something that was engineered and designed to wiggle.
Something else to consider when using solid mounts in a Quietline compared to the 1X9's.
QL's have aluminum pans and the 1X9's have cast iron.
It's much easier to damage aluminum than cast and not a good idea IMHO to solid mount something that was engineered and designed to wiggle.
CHARLIE - The 129 I had for 15 yrs & sold six years ago had an alum. pan on the K301, but then it had been rode hard & put away wet for quite a few years before I got it so it may have had a CI pan at one time when it was new. There were so many "modifications" done to that tractor I really felt sorry for it, and they were ALL Cobble-Jobs to keep it mowing for no Dollars. Like a piece of old converyor belting in place of the hood hinge, a little welded-up prop rod for the rockshaft lift lever, a longer hydro control lever hose clamped & duct taped to the OEM lever, but I did really like the larger diameter chrome plated 3-spoke steering wheel, I kept that!
But as you're saying, it vibrated a bit, even when it still had Gernade Gears since it was missing five blower fins in a row out of the twelve from the flywheel. It "Wiggled" enough to wiggle the threads right out of all four mounting bolt holes in that alum. pan.
But as you're saying, it vibrated a bit, even when it still had Gernade Gears since it was missing five blower fins in a row out of the twelve from the flywheel. It "Wiggled" enough to wiggle the threads right out of all four mounting bolt holes in that alum. pan.
A small update on my 100's mower deck problem.
Changed the deck belt, changed the idler pully, installed new power belt, and still the blades slow to a stop when I attempt to mow grass.
SO Friday, I get the can of breaking oil out and spray each of the 3 set screw holes in the PTO.
Saturday, I go out and spray each hole again and find the correct size allen wrench, and spend the next hour removeing all 6 set screws.
Than spray more breaking oil into each hole and let set overnight.
Sunday, go to shed, find small chain and wrap it around the PTO pully, give it a couple of good tuggs and off pops the PTO.
OOPPSS
Forgot all about the 3 anti rattle springs, search the area, find 2 of the 3, no problem, I know I have a complete new set in a plastic bag someplace in my work shop.
Spend the next 2 hours searching for the anti rattle springs, found them.
Today, less than 1/2 hour ago I go on line and order a rebuilt PTO unit from our most prestigious sponcer here.
Changed the deck belt, changed the idler pully, installed new power belt, and still the blades slow to a stop when I attempt to mow grass.
SO Friday, I get the can of breaking oil out and spray each of the 3 set screw holes in the PTO.
Saturday, I go out and spray each hole again and find the correct size allen wrench, and spend the next hour removeing all 6 set screws.
Than spray more breaking oil into each hole and let set overnight.
Sunday, go to shed, find small chain and wrap it around the PTO pully, give it a couple of good tuggs and off pops the PTO.
OOPPSS
Forgot all about the 3 anti rattle springs, search the area, find 2 of the 3, no problem, I know I have a complete new set in a plastic bag someplace in my work shop.
Spend the next 2 hours searching for the anti rattle springs, found them.
Today, less than 1/2 hour ago I go on line and order a rebuilt PTO unit from our most prestigious sponcer here.
Ryan,
I would have to say yes, as I have eliminated all other posabilities as far as I know.
The spindles move freely with no noise when deck belt is removed and blades are spun by hand.
Mule drive pullys spin freely.
Nothing binding on the belts.
So my next step is to replace the PTO unit.
I would have to say yes, as I have eliminated all other posabilities as far as I know.
The spindles move freely with no noise when deck belt is removed and blades are spun by hand.
Mule drive pullys spin freely.
Nothing binding on the belts.
So my next step is to replace the PTO unit.
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- Allen Schumacher
Lonny, would it work better if you started the engine?
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