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Archive through June 26, 2009

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kmcconaughey

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Kraig McConaughey
Paul, Craig, I bet they put it in 3rd gear, dropped the engine to an idle and dumped the clutch to stall it.
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Kraig:
just wondering - on the pull starts converted to battery ignition - did they have any tendency to snatch the pull start handle outta your hand? One of the "benefits" of a magneto ignition is they've got to get rolling to get a hot enough spark to fire - I'd be careful how many fingers I'd wrap around the handle on a battery converted pull start - one of the reasons the Model T's had a spark advance (retard) was to help reduce kickback at low cranking speeds (especially if the you were switched to battery for starting, before switching over to the mag)..
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thanks wayne e miller and Donald Tanner ,

the high speed stop was on the wrong side of the bracket. bolt, stop, bracket, spacer.

cant test it, violent thunderstorms moving in.

but, hopefully, this will solve the problem.
 
Wayne-

To add to what Kraig said, the ratchet thing is just a belt tension gauge...when the forwardmost V-shaped notch is flush with the front of the mule drive, the belt is tensioned correctly.
 
Kendell, I believe you meant to address your query to Craig, or perhaps Paul. I've never attempted to start a pull start Cub Cadet.
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Ya know...I tried to pull start my 102 once...it's pretty darn heavy. Took me pullin and four others pushin...


Ok...
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..I'm board. No Cub time for me, been raining w/thunderstorms since yesterday continuing through the weekend.
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Kraig, Matt, and Michael - Thanks for the great information. I think I have it unerstood now. I ended up taking the whole mule drive apart and found the shaft heavily worn so I just made another. If I didn't need the ratchet information I wouldn't have found this wear (but I might have been mowing). Things happen for a reason. This forum is simply wonderful. Later . . . .
 
Matt - In answer to you email reply, I will try another coil and get a new condenser. I plan to clean the head and get a new gasket as well. I will do the timing last if this doesn't clear up the problem. This is my first narrow frame so I'm experiencing a lot of "firsts" lately. Thanks again. Oh, are you planning to post any more on your plating or the electrolisis cleaning? (in detail, I hope) Later . . . .
 
Kendell
I have never tried to pull start one converted to battery ignition, but the K-161's prior to Spec number sufix "J" used a two piece cam that had a "spark advance" mechanism, and there were two different "cam" ends used - one for a magneto system and one for a battery system. Spec number sufix "J" and up used the ACR type cam for both mag and battery systems. As the parts supply of the two piece cam dwindled, the pre sufix J cams were replaced with an ACR cam kit if the cam had to be replaced. The engine in this 72 is Spec # 28911J, and it does have a little kick back if the points are set too wide, but when set between .017 and .020, there is very little if any kick back. The ones I have/had seem to run better with the points set about .017 rather than .020.
 
Don T. Thanks for the photos which make sense out of what I was trying to say. Frank, when you have the high speed stop adjusted correctly it should be close to the position shown in figure 6-48. The tension washer is a wavey washer probably mostly to keep the bracket from wearing due to vibration. Wayne
 
Kraiq:
C or K - sounds the same to me
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Yeah, I meant Craig (must be the lack of auto spell check in Opera..... er yup, that must be it..).

Paul:
I've got a 4 stroke Ryobi weed whacker that'll straighten my fingers right out (modern solid state ignition), when it's feeling snappy - I can't imagine a K motor poppin' back on the compression stroke ("ow ow ow ow %$#@^&&%$#@..")

On another note, I've started looking at the 149's cobbled up driveshaft - I'm afraid to take it off in fear of finding how the PO treated the pump shaft when he attached the (low speed clamp style) U-joint to it.. I'm debating pulling the motor forward or just cutting the shaft in half to end the suspense.. note that just out of the picture is a hose clamp on the shaft - the only reason for it to be there is to balance the shaft.. yeah, yeah, I know, it needs the pressure washer treatment ....
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Wayne-

Yeah, I'm doing a fairly detailed writeup of the zinc plating to put on my website. I'll do the same with the electrolysis. I'm still trying to work some bugs out of the plating stuff and figure out what works best. I've finally got bolt plating down pat, but I plated the throttle control today, and I have to re-do part of it, thanks to a bad connection between the wiring and one of the parts. Luckily, mistakes are easy to re-do.
 
Wayne Miller; On June 24,8:56AM you advised porter to (Position the creeper vertically before you dissasemble any of it.) Good luck, Wayne

I am splitting a 124 to replace the creeper bearing and seal. Are you saying parts will fall out? or are there internal parts that will miss align? This is my first creeper repair. Finall got a chance to use the Ky. Ken pin tool. Works great.
 
I'm still suffering the effects of an 8 hp Briggs motor on a Troybilt rototiller kicking back on me a couple of months ago. Wearing a wrist brace as I speak. Doctor says in addition to the ligament damage I have carpal tunnel syndrome now. We picked through the junkyards looking for a motor that might have a compression release, instead we found a Snapper with an electric starter that mounted right up. The motor kicked back on the starter too, so bad that it sheared the flywheel key. We ended up buying a brand new 11 horsepower electric start motor from Harbor Freight for it. Dad thinks the crankshaft might be twisted.
 
Luther What I probably should have said was to tilt the transmission upward so that the parts don't fall out unexpectedly. Standing it on end is much more difficult especially if you are working alone and don't have a hoist or something. The big snap ring that holds the frt retainer in is tapered and on mine was in pretty tight and didn't want to come out or seat in the groove going back in with out encouragement. The shop manual has a good description of the procedure and a good crosssection view (illustration 2-85 in mine) that I thought were very helpful. The hard part is splitting the tractor the rest just takes a little time. I didn't take the whole assembly off the transmission,just took out what I needed from the front.
 
Terry
Holy Shnikies!! I hope he is OK... If so, perhaps we all could contact him to offer support and maybe have a cub reconstruction event....
 
Does that look like an alternator by the trailer?? Terry R...maybe you can keep us updated on this mans condition. We already know about the tractor.
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