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Archive through June 25, 2009

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Cub Cadet 100. Brake return spring. Where does it hook up? I checked my other 100 and don't see one on it even though the brake pedal has a strong return. TIA.
 
Porter, Kraig,
Yes the hood ornament is "backwards", but it has been that way for a long time it appears, and for now will stay like that until such time that I repaint the tractor. It also has one front tire (I assume it is original) that is about as "used up" as any I've ever seen, but still holds air and doesn't leak down. The picture is deceiving, the tread lines are just that, lines. The tire is smooth.
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Richard P,
It hooks into the end of the clutch release rod that goes thru the clutch/brake bellcrank and a hole in the crossmember.
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hello, I have a 107 and it's really cold blooded....tried useing the carb. cleaner which helped but still not enough.....it i give it a little shot of starting fluid it fires up. anyone have any idea's of where I should start?
 
whats everyones take on starting fluid, I remember when I was about 12 trying to start my dads 104 with it and I thought he was gonna throw the can at me, lol, I was told it was bad for the cylinder walls on older engines?
 
PaulB -

just curious, was the recoil 72 just a mower tractor? I can hardly see any evidence of a deck subframe on there. Must've been decently cared for, if the starter is original (and it appears to be).
 
thats kinda why im asking, I don't wanna keep using it the fluid cause I heard the same thing about it....I just picked the tractor up last fall and started running it more this year, it was my great uncle's and he must of had trouble starting it cause there's a can of starting fluid under the seat....I'm not a big carb. person...
 
Frank I can't find a good illustration of how the parts go together,but I will try to describe. Bolt 1/4 x 1 1/4 with lock washer,then the spacer which is about 3/8-1/2" long with a reduced diameter end that the bracket/lever will fit on and then the high speed stop next to the engine. Install the parts so that the bracket/lever is next to the high speed stop,the bracket/lever should then be in line with the governor arm. The part number for the spacer should be IH#385358R1, the parts list also specifies a tension washer #385286R1,but I don't remember if either of mine have it. With the bolt tightened the bracket/lever should move freely on the spacer. Someone may have lost the spacer and substituted something else. The bracket/lever should contact the high speed stop at full speed,loosen the bolt slightly and rotate the stop to contact the bracket/lever and recheck the RPM. Once you set the Max RPM the bolt must remain tight to keep the Max RPM setting from changing. Hope this helps.
 
Richard; I saw a 16 HP blown up beyond repair with starting fluid. I would never use it.
Bruce you will like the Eze Vac. You will have to go slow when using it and it will work fine. I have one on a 127 and the only problem with it is the runners on the deck push up leaves in front of the deck instead of going over them. I will be putting front wheels on my deck.
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Frank My description should say that the spacer is next to the high speed stop and the bracket is next to the bolt head,after the washers. I just looked at my 126 and there is a tension washer. It goes next to the bracket/lever. When all is assembled correctly, the bracket lines up with the governor lever,sorry for the confusion,that will (maybe) teach me to look first. Hope this helps, Wayne
 
Bruce N. Thank You for the words of encouragement.

It has been quite a week here. The Air Conditioner went out Monday. Yesterday was the soonest anyone could make it out to check it. The compressor burnt out so we are pricing a new system. The van's A/C quit working. A great friend and coworker brought over two fans and a neighbor loaned us one of his. We are so blessed to have such awesome people in our lives. After the heat died down I got out Clarence and mowed half the lawn one more time. Mike C. will be out Monday to finish the rest.

Kraig M.
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Thank Goodness for clearing up things. You had me worried there.

Today is the day!!! It may be a couple of days before I check back in here. Stinker, Hannah, and Tootsie have their nurses outfits on and their doctor kits ready. Fancy assured me the Cubbies will be looked after. I wish everyone a fantastic weekend. I'll try and have Angel check in here for me. Take care!!! See ya all in a couple days!!!
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mike gray,

You already know the carb is where to start. If you don't feel comfortable rebuilding it you should find someone who will (and can prove it) or buy a rebuilt one. If the latter.. you will have a carb to practice on and hopefully a replacement when you are done. There is no getting around it.
 
Allen

I Got the proublem fixed on the 102 last night the points on the bottom of the regulator was stuck open.I open them with a small screw driver an used a small file I use in my locksmithing job to clean them up everything seems to be fine now at least when I turn the key off the engine dont keep turning over now. ALSO I WOULD LIKE TO THANK KRAIG FOR HIS INPUT ON THIS SAME POST.
 
richard, thanks, I thought there was a trick of the trade short cut I could take...I'll have to order a rebuild kit and tackle it...it starts great when its warmed up, but not if its cold....what about a hotter plug?
 
wayne e miller -

thank you for the description on the speed control Bracket. when i get to it later today, i will check to see if mine is in the correct order.
I already know, from memory, the high speed stop is about 90 degrees off.
hopefully, this will fix the stalling problem.

isnt it fun trying to figure out what the last owner did?
 
mike gray,
REBUILD it!!! There are no short cuts.
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Although you could give me the tractor and get rid of all your worries.
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I'll put my big boy pants on and start tinker'n with it....I'm gonna hang on the tractor, I think having three isn't enough!!
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Craig C
The tractor did have a deck and sub frame on it. I hate decks, other than the one I'm using, and normally don't take them if I don't have to, and I gave this one to the guy that found the tractor for me <font size="-2">he told me later the bearings were rather noisy, and full of sand</font>. The recoil unit was missing from the engine, and the spool for the rope from the original one had been bolted to the front of the top pulley and used as a "wind-a-rope" type starter.

The original condenser was missing and it had an external condenser mounted on the side of the engine and spliced into the wire going to the points. Don't know how they shut it off when it was running, the mag kill wire going to the ignition switch was disconnected from the switch and had tape wrapped around the wire terminal/end, although the air filter was so clogged up with oily dirt/sand, that it may not have ever run after the wire was taped up. The tractor had supposedly been sitting in a barn for several years. I used the condenser and recoil unit from a extra engine that I got with a pull start Original I bought last year.
 

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