-
This community needs YOUR help today!
With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
We need more Supporting Members today.Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.
Why Join?
- Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
- Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
- Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!
This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:
Archive through June 25, 2007
- Thread starter sblunier
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
The crankshaft bearings listed on the parts lookup for a K301A engine are IH # ST436. My bearings are different in that the one on the PTO side of the shaft has a "Lip" only on one side, and the one on the rear (Flywheel side) has a lip on both end of the inner race. Are they the same bearing that is listed or do I have to get two seperate ones?
Can anyone help me, I have a Cub 1450 and the battery is not charging at all in it and with the magnetic clutch on the power take off, it goes dead quite fast. What is the most common problem with these? I would like to know where to start. I did notice it has a sort of rectifier sealed unit on the sice of the engine with three wires going ot it. I take it to be a diode setup for that. Thanks in advance for any help.
Larry the stator in the "generator" is behind the flywheel if the rectifier is good that could be the culprit. My 1250 has pulled that no charge act on me twice, the last time in a snow storm. The worst part is pulling the engine, I never pulled the dash and pedestal.
Great pics Myron,
I'll be at Red Power Next year when it's in the great state of Missouri!
It's #1 ya know, so is Chapter #1.
I'll be at Red Power Next year when it's in the great state of Missouri!
It's #1 ya know, so is Chapter #1.
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,829
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Larry,
With the engine running you should have +/-28V AC across the two outside pins (far left and far right) on the VR.
With the engine off you should have continuity on the same two wires (unplugged from the VR), but you should not have coutinunity between each individual wire and the block (ground). If the stator is shorted to ground you will need to pull the engine and remove the flywheel.
If all checks out ok there then the VR is likely the issue.
With the engine running you should have +/-28V AC across the two outside pins (far left and far right) on the VR.
With the engine off you should have continuity on the same two wires (unplugged from the VR), but you should not have coutinunity between each individual wire and the block (ground). If the stator is shorted to ground you will need to pull the engine and remove the flywheel.
If all checks out ok there then the VR is likely the issue.
Steve,
Your gonna have to get one of those bumper stickers,
"If it ain't RED, leave it in the shed!"
Your gonna have to get one of those bumper stickers,
"If it ain't RED, leave it in the shed!"
Dean S.
You name the time and the place and I'm sure everyone would be more than happy to come visit ya!
You name the time and the place and I'm sure everyone would be more than happy to come visit ya!
- Joined
- Oct 25, 2005
- Messages
- 1,259
- displayname
- Brian Branstetter
Sorry everyone,
Have to work first shift tommorrow, won't have time to post RPRU pics tonight.
Have to work first shift tommorrow, won't have time to post RPRU pics tonight.
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,829
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Frank,
There's 5 good runners in the shed right now, those 3 plus the 149 w/loader and the 100 w/tiller.
My fleet of yellow has diminished some, and my "all time favorite" Cub model has changed some too. It use to be the 149, but right now the 782 dual hyd. is king of the hill around here!!!!!
There's 5 good runners in the shed right now, those 3 plus the 149 w/loader and the 100 w/tiller.
My fleet of yellow has diminished some, and my "all time favorite" Cub model has changed some too. It use to be the 149, but right now the 782 dual hyd. is king of the hill around here!!!!!
Steve:
I agree 100%. My favorite is my 782 that was repowered with a M-18. Loads of power and I love the smooth running as well as the ability to filter the oil through the remote filter.
For runners, I have over 20 runners including originals, narrow frames, wide frames Q/L's and the X82's and the steroid model 184. I recently had my second favorite chuck an engine. My 169 had the balance gears explode and ventelate the block. All the ones in my profile picture are runners except the 169 has died. The rest are at the farm.
I am really disappointed about my 782D situation. I won it but the seller has turned into a total crook. Claims he broke it after I won it and now won't let me pickit up. I was going to put the red cab on it that I just picked up saturday along with a pair of 26x12x12 meats. I have not given up...may take me a while to force him to produce the 782D.
I agree 100%. My favorite is my 782 that was repowered with a M-18. Loads of power and I love the smooth running as well as the ability to filter the oil through the remote filter.
For runners, I have over 20 runners including originals, narrow frames, wide frames Q/L's and the X82's and the steroid model 184. I recently had my second favorite chuck an engine. My 169 had the balance gears explode and ventelate the block. All the ones in my profile picture are runners except the 169 has died. The rest are at the farm.
I am really disappointed about my 782D situation. I won it but the seller has turned into a total crook. Claims he broke it after I won it and now won't let me pickit up. I was going to put the red cab on it that I just picked up saturday along with a pair of 26x12x12 meats. I have not given up...may take me a while to force him to produce the 782D.
Ryan - You asked ,"what is electrical continuity"?
Steve's reply is wrong. Countnuity means the circuit is closed which would relate to a voltage path = a needle rise on OHM scale. Amount of rise is relevant to your OHM setting.
0 OHMs means something has an open circuit and no path to follow.
TEST : Take a blown light bulb and see if I'm right.
Steve's reply is wrong. Countnuity means the circuit is closed which would relate to a voltage path = a needle rise on OHM scale. Amount of rise is relevant to your OHM setting.
0 OHMs means something has an open circuit and no path to follow.
TEST : Take a blown light bulb and see if I'm right.
rbedell
Well-known member
Ryan:
Ken is WRONG also.
There is continuity in a circuit when the needle movement on a analog scale of a VOM measures some sort of,or no resistance.
A totally open circuit has "Infinite Ohms" or the needle movement on a analog scale of a VOM shows no movement.
Taking a simple household light circuit, there is continuity in the circuit when the light is on, and no continuity when the light is off.
Ken is WRONG also.
There is continuity in a circuit when the needle movement on a analog scale of a VOM measures some sort of,or no resistance.
A totally open circuit has "Infinite Ohms" or the needle movement on a analog scale of a VOM shows no movement.
Taking a simple household light circuit, there is continuity in the circuit when the light is on, and no continuity when the light is off.
Similar threads
