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Archive through June 23, 2014
- Thread starter hydroharry
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
Frank A. I bought the 123 for over at my cabin, the "lawn" there isn't very smooth and is littered with sticks that fall from the trees. I also like to clear out areas of ferns from time to time, and also use the mower for mulching leaves in the fall.
does any one know if you can convert the deck from the pin on to quick connect style?
does any one know if you can convert the deck from the pin on to quick connect style?
balbrecht
Well-known member
Doug B.,
If you want to run a full QA style setup then I suppose you could modify the deck, but I haven't tried that. You would need to mount QA eyelets on the front (maybe drill new holes?) and change the rear hangers on the back to the spring loaded pin setup (might need new holes for that also). The first thing to do would be to measure the front to back distance from the front eyelets to the rear hangers to make sure that distance can be matched with the new parts on the cast end deck. What I have done is mixed and matched parts from a QA mule drive with a pin on hanger to run a cast end deck on a 127. I wish someone would make new deck pans for the cast end decks, mine mows better than anything else I have.
If you want to run a full QA style setup then I suppose you could modify the deck, but I haven't tried that. You would need to mount QA eyelets on the front (maybe drill new holes?) and change the rear hangers on the back to the spring loaded pin setup (might need new holes for that also). The first thing to do would be to measure the front to back distance from the front eyelets to the rear hangers to make sure that distance can be matched with the new parts on the cast end deck. What I have done is mixed and matched parts from a QA mule drive with a pin on hanger to run a cast end deck on a 127. I wish someone would make new deck pans for the cast end decks, mine mows better than anything else I have.
jchamberlin
Well-known member
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- Jeremiah Chamberlin
Jeff, it definitely looks good, that's for sure. How does your arm feel?
Gerry, I have to issue an apology of sorts to you, regarding the capacitance value not being important for ignition condensers. I ran across an interesting write-up in the Kohler service manual concerning the metal transferred as points wear and its relationship to the condenser's capacitance value. I either didn't know, or had forgotten, how to "read" a set of points. For everyone's benefit, the graphic from the Service Manual says it all:
If you don't remember, at one time I proposed using an automotive condenser in place of a standard Cub Cadet condenser. You took exception stating that the capacitance value matters, as indeed it appears. I would still maintain that the motor will RUN with an automotive condenser, but I will no longer recommend it as a permanent repair, only a temporary fix. I've had an automotive condensor (sp) in my 149 for over two years, I'll have to check and see how the points are worn and report back. In the meantime, you can enjoy the satisfaction of not only being right, but being acknowledged as such.
Now, to the reason I logged on to post, I have a not-so-quick question:
What would it take to convert a Model 122 gear drive into a Model 123 hydrostatic drive?
The question assumes the task can be done. I already have the hydrostatic axle and transmission from a Model 1250, I'm not sure how much of the drive line I have, and of course the linkage does not include the metal tower as found on the 122/123 models. The Quiet Line has a gear-shift type knob mounted to the right of the steering column, where the throttle is located on the 122. But if memory serves, the actual control linkage on the hydrostatic transmission is on the left (both left and right references assume that one is sitting in the driver's seat).
Any thoughts on the contemplated conversion? Has anyone done this before.
(I sure some smart fellow will chime in to say that what is needed to turn a 122 into a 123 is another 123.
)
Gerry, I have to issue an apology of sorts to you, regarding the capacitance value not being important for ignition condensers. I ran across an interesting write-up in the Kohler service manual concerning the metal transferred as points wear and its relationship to the condenser's capacitance value. I either didn't know, or had forgotten, how to "read" a set of points. For everyone's benefit, the graphic from the Service Manual says it all:
If you don't remember, at one time I proposed using an automotive condenser in place of a standard Cub Cadet condenser. You took exception stating that the capacitance value matters, as indeed it appears. I would still maintain that the motor will RUN with an automotive condenser, but I will no longer recommend it as a permanent repair, only a temporary fix. I've had an automotive condensor (sp) in my 149 for over two years, I'll have to check and see how the points are worn and report back. In the meantime, you can enjoy the satisfaction of not only being right, but being acknowledged as such.
Now, to the reason I logged on to post, I have a not-so-quick question:
What would it take to convert a Model 122 gear drive into a Model 123 hydrostatic drive?
The question assumes the task can be done. I already have the hydrostatic axle and transmission from a Model 1250, I'm not sure how much of the drive line I have, and of course the linkage does not include the metal tower as found on the 122/123 models. The Quiet Line has a gear-shift type knob mounted to the right of the steering column, where the throttle is located on the 122. But if memory serves, the actual control linkage on the hydrostatic transmission is on the left (both left and right references assume that one is sitting in the driver's seat).
Any thoughts on the contemplated conversion? Has anyone done this before.
(I sure some smart fellow will chime in to say that what is needed to turn a 122 into a 123 is another 123.
