Lost a throwout lever on the mechanical PTO of my 147 today while mowing. Fortunately I found it sitting inside the front end, with the screw/bolt running through it. I haven't pulled the PTO yet and I presume the nuts are on the backside floating around somewhere. I just had the PTO rebuilt last april (2012), no problems with it until now. Anyone heard of this happening before, and how can I prevent it in the future?
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Archive through June 23, 2013
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DAN - Blue Lock-Tight on the two hex jam nuts on the back sides of the special screws, and make sure the two jam nuts are locked together really tight. Most of us that work on the PTO clutches occasionally have "Specially Modified 7/16" wrenches ground to fit the short jam nuts so you can use a 7/16" socket on the top nut and really get them locked together tight.
hydroharry
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Frank - it's been at least a few hours. You still got the shaft?
Doug A - I agree with Ron. First one I'd check is that big one in the Rockshaft on the side of the tractor frame. If it's broke/cracked, when you raise the deck it lifts/raises the rockshaft to the point the cracked/broken pin allows, When you lower the deck the rockshaft rotates to the point of the adjustable cam stop, and then the broken/cracked roll pin allows the lift arms to slip downward a little more. This may be what you're seeing when you mentioned some downward pressure. So, I'd be checking that big honking roll pin in the Rockshaft first. To do this you can just remove the adjustable links from each lift arm so you can manual rotate the arms, and then move the Rockshaft by hand to raise the lift arms. You should be able to get the lift arms to either bang on the frame cross-member, or almost hit it - then once you've got them in the full up position pull again on the Rockshaft to see if it rotates up more. If it does the roll pin is cracked/broken. You can try the same thing in downward rotation but most likely you'll need the sub-frame and mowing deck removed or out of the way. If the Rockshaft seems fine then it could be a broken/cracked roll pin is in one of the lift arms. Testing is really the opposite of the Rockshaft but you'll have to have the deck and sub-frame removed and out of the way since you'll have to be under the tractor to check these arms. Basically I'd rotate the Rockshaft to the downward position, and and use the cam stop to hold it there., and then manually pull down on each lift arm. If one of them seems to pull downward a little then then roll pin in that lift arm is cracked/broken. If one of these is the problem it's a real bear to replace, and I hope you have a sky hook to hold the tractor up at about 80 degrees so you can pound that pin out after you figure out the shaft position to exactly align the 2 broken/cracked parts of the roll pin. If you beat on that cracked/broken roll pin without the 2 parts being aligned you'll just round over the ends of the roll pin and make it that much harder to remove (and don't ask how I know that - but I do remember doing my first one, pounding on the _ _ _ _ thing for about a total of 4 hours, sometimes laying on the ground, sometimes thru the top where the frame cover is removed)
Here's some additional tidbits FYI. Normally you only have one adjustable link to connect the sub-frame to the lift arms. Having 2 gives you more adjusting but also may help hide or cover up a roll pin problem, at least for awhile. The problem will usually show up when the deck is raised and it's really un-even, but when lowered you can get it leveled. More than likely this indicates one of the roll pins in the lift arms on the tractor has failed.
And that's my story and I'm sticking to it. I wish I would'a got one of those pin removal tools from Charlie - wonder if he got any more in stock yet?
Doug A - I agree with Ron. First one I'd check is that big one in the Rockshaft on the side of the tractor frame. If it's broke/cracked, when you raise the deck it lifts/raises the rockshaft to the point the cracked/broken pin allows, When you lower the deck the rockshaft rotates to the point of the adjustable cam stop, and then the broken/cracked roll pin allows the lift arms to slip downward a little more. This may be what you're seeing when you mentioned some downward pressure. So, I'd be checking that big honking roll pin in the Rockshaft first. To do this you can just remove the adjustable links from each lift arm so you can manual rotate the arms, and then move the Rockshaft by hand to raise the lift arms. You should be able to get the lift arms to either bang on the frame cross-member, or almost hit it - then once you've got them in the full up position pull again on the Rockshaft to see if it rotates up more. If it does the roll pin is cracked/broken. You can try the same thing in downward rotation but most likely you'll need the sub-frame and mowing deck removed or out of the way. If the Rockshaft seems fine then it could be a broken/cracked roll pin is in one of the lift arms. Testing is really the opposite of the Rockshaft but you'll have to have the deck and sub-frame removed and out of the way since you'll have to be under the tractor to check these arms. Basically I'd rotate the Rockshaft to the downward position, and and use the cam stop to hold it there., and then manually pull down on each lift arm. If one of them seems to pull downward a little then then roll pin in that lift arm is cracked/broken. If one of these is the problem it's a real bear to replace, and I hope you have a sky hook to hold the tractor up at about 80 degrees so you can pound that pin out after you figure out the shaft position to exactly align the 2 broken/cracked parts of the roll pin. If you beat on that cracked/broken roll pin without the 2 parts being aligned you'll just round over the ends of the roll pin and make it that much harder to remove (and don't ask how I know that - but I do remember doing my first one, pounding on the _ _ _ _ thing for about a total of 4 hours, sometimes laying on the ground, sometimes thru the top where the frame cover is removed)
Here's some additional tidbits FYI. Normally you only have one adjustable link to connect the sub-frame to the lift arms. Having 2 gives you more adjusting but also may help hide or cover up a roll pin problem, at least for awhile. The problem will usually show up when the deck is raised and it's really un-even, but when lowered you can get it leveled. More than likely this indicates one of the roll pins in the lift arms on the tractor has failed.
And that's my story and I'm sticking to it. I wish I would'a got one of those pin removal tools from Charlie - wonder if he got any more in stock yet?
BILL J. - Spraying whether broadcast spraying over large areas, or spot spraying with a hand wand works best with a GEAR DRIVE. You haven't been paying atention to my Hydro vs GD posts have you.
For spot spraying, you have the wand in one hand, need the other to steer or turn the elec pump on & off. So which hand runs the hydro speed & direction lever? With a GD you can use your left foot, and it only takes a split second to shift from 1st to reverse or vice versa if you need to with your steering hand.
I tried spot spraying ONE time with my 129, sprayed a tank or two and switched back to a the 72 gear drive to finish.
For broadcast sraying large ares with my 4-nozzle spray boom the constant speed of a GD works better than a hydro.
Now I'm sure several people will post about using their hydro's to spray with, but mostly because they don't own a GD that runs well. I bet they also drive cars & trucks with automatic transmissions too.
For spot spraying, you have the wand in one hand, need the other to steer or turn the elec pump on & off. So which hand runs the hydro speed & direction lever? With a GD you can use your left foot, and it only takes a split second to shift from 1st to reverse or vice versa if you need to with your steering hand.
I tried spot spraying ONE time with my 129, sprayed a tank or two and switched back to a the 72 gear drive to finish.
For broadcast sraying large ares with my 4-nozzle spray boom the constant speed of a GD works better than a hydro.
Now I'm sure several people will post about using their hydro's to spray with, but mostly because they don't own a GD that runs well. I bet they also drive cars & trucks with automatic transmissions too.
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Dennis F - I read EVERYTHING you write to this forum (and I got a feeling a lot of others do too). I definitely enjoy/learn from your posts - even if my truck is a humble Nissan 4x2 w/ auto transmission...
Didn't mean (or want) to ignite the gear vs hydro debate with my quick question. I was looking for a different answer - so here's the quick answer.
The reason for using the 109 vs the 126 is simply battery location. With the 109's battery at the rear of the tractor, it makes a quick and close hook-up of the 12V power for the sprayer pump!
That's my story and I'm stickin' to it...
Harry B - here are some pics of my rusty front blade subframe for the 122 and what amounts to the front mounting plates on the 122's frame. Behind those plates are the mule drive pulleys (if I recall correctly - can't run down to the basement and check, I'm traveling for the salt mine this week) and the remainder of the subframe for the mowing deck would attach it. The front blade would also attach there too.
The question I have is - will this bolt-up to the 126 or do I need to remove the front quick attach on the 126? I've got a feeling this will work with the 126, I just thought someone might have used a 1x2/3 deck, blade and subframes on a later 1x5/6 series tractor.
BTW - with regards to what we did for the remaining two hours - after the quick skin the cat lab, that was back in my Testimony days, so I'm thinking...
Didn't mean (or want) to ignite the gear vs hydro debate with my quick question. I was looking for a different answer - so here's the quick answer.
The reason for using the 109 vs the 126 is simply battery location. With the 109's battery at the rear of the tractor, it makes a quick and close hook-up of the 12V power for the sprayer pump!
That's my story and I'm stickin' to it...
Harry B - here are some pics of my rusty front blade subframe for the 122 and what amounts to the front mounting plates on the 122's frame. Behind those plates are the mule drive pulleys (if I recall correctly - can't run down to the basement and check, I'm traveling for the salt mine this week) and the remainder of the subframe for the mowing deck would attach it. The front blade would also attach there too.
The question I have is - will this bolt-up to the 126 or do I need to remove the front quick attach on the 126? I've got a feeling this will work with the 126, I just thought someone might have used a 1x2/3 deck, blade and subframes on a later 1x5/6 series tractor.
BTW - with regards to what we did for the remaining two hours - after the quick skin the cat lab, that was back in my Testimony days, so I'm thinking...
Last night I had a pretty good score. cub cadet 100. lights, round fenders, has sears 3 point on the back, came with "wheel weights" - one is a front weight for a farmall h or m - other is a case sc front wheel weight. Also has sears 3 point cultivator (3 shovels)... a brinly tandem disc in NICE shape
... a IH snow blade... and a cultivator contraption that looks similar to a planel junior cultivator.
Oh - and it has a newer 12hp k301 engine in it with side cam dipstick and deep sump oil pan!
Oh - and it has a newer 12hp k301 engine in it with side cam dipstick and deep sump oil pan!
