Archive through June 23, 2004

[wcompton]

Got a lightning-quick shipment from CC Specialties. I have to say I'm impressed with the fuel bowl I ordered for the tractor I'm building. Most of the ones I've found don't have the thumb screw on them, just a phillips screw on the end to take the fuel bowl off.

Looking back at things, I was originally set out to build this tractor out of the spare parts I have. Other than the basic structure, it's going to be mostly new stuff. After this I'm just going to stick to repainting . . .<font size="-2">yeah, right!</font> . . . I've already sketched up the new paint job the 169 will get, probably toss in a K361 cam in while it's apart. Got some ideas borrowed from another color of tractors that use the same hydro unit, having the hydro overheat and foam up will hopefully be a thing of the past.

 

[aaytay]

Puttin' a fan at the back, eh Wyatt?

 

[jrichardson]

Jim S. Well, you know I got to thinking and you said that it will stay up if "you tweak the lever", so what I am thinking is that maybe there is something that needs to be adjusted in the linkage... Worse case scenario, the spool assy could be scored, or be binding... Just something else to look at before you pull it apart.

 

[jrichardson]

Jim S. BTW, what bird did you fly?

 

[Guest]

Jeffrey "sit down and have a couple beers" Richardson -- I heard tell that you were out of the country again. I ain't heard from Necker in a coon's age cept for a cryptic message week or so ago. I think the smoke signals are real slow getting over the mountain - but he should get them in time for the Brooks show. If'n he don't I'm thinking the smoke signals will be chasing him across the mountains and then the prairies cause this time HE better show up. I WANT MY HAT!
AND besides that he's over due to catch up on that middle phrase in your name!!!!! I heard from JB and he's all set in a notel for a week. I can't seem to round up ole Doug Bucket tho. I'm waiting to hear back from him to. Can you tell me the name of the shop he's at??? I might run up and bag him just to make sure - or better yet maybe I should make sure his bucketted 149 comes up missing - he'd show up for sure then. You take care of yourself over there and make sure you keep posting (that way I know you're staying out of trouble).

Jim S. - YUP, I'm warming up the bonfire. If you get a chance to check out those boys that welcomed the JD I'm sure you'll get your eyes and ears opened. Good bunch - they'll probably give ya some free paint to make that JD look like it fits right in. Aw shucks, ther'll be other JDs there to.
Glad to hear you're moving in the right direction. That 1450 is a wonderful unit. Some early units did have a problem with the linkage set up so you're also probably right to check that out. Might be easiest to remove the hole console support to work it over so plan some time.

As for the rest of you guys, flip/floppin those WF to NF wheels, get yourself some of those special IH stubby valve stems. I think I might'a left Kenny W a half dozen before I left the New England territory for the Great Northwest. Glad to hear Kenny's puttin them to use. (One thing I ain't figgered out tho - how do you get the air in the tire when the cap side of the valve is inside the wheel?)(hehehe).

You'al take care and have a GREAT RED POWER.

Hydro Harry
Hydros Forever

 

[gbickford]

Folks,
I'm a Cub newbie. I'm getting a 149 running for my friend who bought it brand new - he's 87 now. The tractor has been sitting for about 15 years, but it appears to be enthusiastic about the prospect of being back in service. So I hope all y'all won't mind my asking a series of questions, at least pending acquisition of some manuals!

So far, after pressure washing most of the external crud, I've opened up the rear differential, drained the old fluid, cleaned out about 1/2" of sludge, put it back together, replaced the filter (for now with a Wix auto filter that showed up as a crossmatch at the parts place - I'll get a FleetGuard HF6096 RSN!!), and discovered that the shear pin at the front of the driveshaft was broken. I tried replacing with a piece of 1/4" tool steel, but it works loose in a couple of minutes, even though it was a tight fit installing it. Do I need to buy this pin, or should I try the hot shaft/cold pin technique with a slightly larger homemade pin? I also want to replace at least one of the spirol pins, as it's not in real good shape either.

Also, IIRC the front PTO clutch slips, though it may be the belt. There are big phillips screw heads on the clutch, but they just rotate easily with no effect. The throwout fingers seem to be pretty worn. Any clues as to how to remove the clutch, or otherwise figure what's up with it? [OK, I just looked at the FAQ!! Guess I'll try that.

]

I just learned today that Binder Books is only about 5 miles from here, so I guess it's about time to trip on over there and buy a book or two!

(Message edited by gbickford on June 25, 2004)

(Message edited by gbickford on June 25, 2004)

 

[jrichardson]

Hydro Harry with the bad ass 169, the one that makes ya feel funny inside like when ya climb a rope in gym class... Anyway, Bucket works in Bellingham in his automotive shop called Barnett's Automotive. He has been quiet for some time now due to somethings that are taking all his time. If you haven't had a chance to catch up, he finished his 149 and posted a few pics of it here on the forum after it was done. He did an awesome job on it... I called him and have seen him a few times before I left. I am sure if you would get on the phone and call he would be happy to hear from ya. We had an awesome time in Brooks! I still liked walking around and checking out the old iron. The smell of the burning wood from the steam powered tractors, and the Oil Pulls...

 

[dfrisk]

WYATT - You wouldn't be thinking of using the Sunstrand Hydro unit from a green tractor with the really fine splined Input shaft would Ya? And an in-line fin & tube cooler off EARL plumbed into the inlet tube? My Buddy replaced the driveshaft in His 317 between the engine & hydro and that little 5/8" shaft must have had 20 real fine splines on it! GARY - I'd just throw a worm gear hose clamp around the coupling that the pin keeps coming out of. Tractor should run another 30-40 years that way. DONNIE - For the most part, Weight is weight on the back of a Cub Cadet, two sets of weights, little over 100# really helps most ground engaging operations. I've seen a few Cub Cadets, specifically a #72 with about 250# pounds hanging off a custom made rear suitcase weight bracket, and a 169 with FOUR SETS of wheel weights. I run about 150# per rear wheel on My 982 all the time, 65# on each rear wheel on My 72, and just one set, 26#/wheel on My 129. For plowing with My 72 I pull the set off the 129 so I have 90-100# per wheel on the 72.

 

[stanner]

Gary-

beware of the filters, as they may not be the same as a cub, which are designed for the suction side of the pump, not the discharge side as most filters are, as i found out with a Fram POS. the correct filter has no anti-drainback valve/flapper/thingy, which, when cold, will cause issues...

JMHO...

 

[bmcmeen]

Don't know how many of ya get the Little G newsletter, but I noticed a couple interesting items in there...

1) Turn to page 4, with the picture of the M-F 8E Executive Tractor's dashboard - doesn't that cigarette lighter look familiar?

2) Turn to page 11 where they show a JD service bulletin for removing the steering gear from a 140 - is that not the same steering gear assembly that we use?

Hmmmmmm...

 

[jbliler]

Jeff, Keep it conming! Good to hear from you. Doug is among the living, brooks is a maybe!!! Hopefully he is bringing that cub cooler again. All we have to do is talk Bob into finding us this year. With any luck he has the house done this year.

 

[jbliler]

Weights--- I have over 300# on the rear of an original with the loader. Not much wheel spin going on but keeping the rear axle bushings WELL greazed is a must with the weight added. 2 1/4 steel plate adds up quick. Was there when I bought it.

 

[aaytay]

Bryan-
Yea, most of those green tractors used the same Ross steering gears that our beloved Cubs did. It could even be said that JD dealers in my area may be able to supply parts for us too!

Jeff-
LMAO!
I think you did different things with the rope in Gym class than we did when I was a kid....

(Message edited by aaytay on June 25, 2004)

 

[bmcmeen]

Art -

Hmmm, I wonder if a certain brother of a certain person might work at one of those JD dealers in your area...

 

[dfrisk]

JERRY B. - There was a picture of the left rear axle of a Super M-TA FARMALL, Next model newer than the one Bryan is seated on just up the page a bit on the RED POWER MAGAZINE Forum 8-10 months ago, where the outer rear axle ball bearing failed, and the inner race wore through the outer race and still wore about an INCH out into the rear axle seal retainer cap & axle carrier. Since the bull gear is firmly attached to the axle on the inboard end of the axle I REALLY hate to think what kind of destruction was done inside the rearend of that tractor. What was odd about this situation is that the outer bearings normally don't go bad, the inner bearings fail first because of the gear loading when under heavy pulls. If the outer bushings in a Cub Cadet wear, the splines on the inner end of the axle wear into the side gears of the differential. Causes them to only last 50-60 years as opposed to FOREVER under normal service! That's what's so hard about these Cub Cadets.... Telling when things are actually Wore Out!

 

[wcompton]

Denny-
I'm doing my own stuff, using Cub Cadet parts. I will say that as far as a final use of the Sunstrand hydro unit, they did start to get things right on the 322 and 332, IF people bought the optional parts. During computer regen time at work I read quite a bit of service stuff and have found quite a few interesting things about Kohlers and Sunstrand hydros . . . . and

Peerless axles and their Brinly Cat-0 hitch. . . . . and how to really wake up the timing on a Yanmar diesel (it's supposed to be "fixed timing" but it's not!)

Art-
No rear-mounted hydro fan, dont' even think it would fit because of where the beefy transaxle case is located.

(Message edited by wcompton on June 25, 2004)

 

[dfrisk]

WYATT - Anything from Your Research You can put in the FAQ's? ;-)

 

[cburrows]

I have a 1711 / aka 782 Hydro and it has developed a hydro leak I hope someone can advise me about. On the top of the transmission there are two large hex head fittings and in the center of each is a small "pinhole". Hydrostatic fluid seeps/ flows (against gravity)out of the hole on the left hex head. Can any of you guys give me some direction about fixing this? The tractor runs fine, but it is a very annoying leak.

Thanks
Chuck (new to the board)

 

[jbliler]

Dennis, thanks for the warning on inner bearing troubles. As far as "normal usage" goes I don't think this original has over a thousand hours on it compared to a larger working tractor. Was bought new to move chicken manure in long row houses. I figured that the weight was as much for traction on the slick floors as was needed for ballest for the bucket.
Kind of nice that they used the farmall cub tranny for our smaller cubs, lots of overkill on a good day.

I had to replace the axle housings as they were egged out from letting the bushings go but everything else seemed OK. Am using a solid bronze bushing with a 1 1/2 inch wear width in place of the steelbacked bushing from IH. Just had to drill for the greeze zirk. The tractor really does not see any work any more. Have two boys who like running the bucket up and doun. I just get stuck standing there to re-latch the bucket. Sure wish it was not a trip bucket. Thought that it sure beats those 12-volt toys at walmart for them to have fun with. After all it is a cub!
The 7-hp is enouogh to push gravel over the top of the bucket before running out of motor too. Just NOT in third gear!
Starting to ramble like Harry, OPPS!

 

[wcompton]

Denny-
There will be some suff worth FAQing, I have played with the 169 in the past few days and found out that I can get the oil to nearly 300° while the outside of the transmisson (the back plate) read about 180°. Somewhere I think I read that it's desireable to get the HyTran above 212° to evaporate any absorbed water, it's undesireable to raise the temperature above 230° to 240° because damage to the fluid happens and the quality of the HyTran changes.

The quick & easy & cheap solution would be to just find an oil cooler from a car or motorcycle and plumb it into the return line to the charge pump, that would all be good but I can't find one with enough cooling volume that will fit. The heat exchanger needs to be about 5"x5"x2-1/2", I can find them through aircraft supply places like Wick's Supply, but since they carry an FAA approval they're around $300. The places I'm familiar that sell parts that carry an expired FAA certification can't find anything that small.