Archive through June 21, 2018

[jrayl]

Ugh, I was afraid of that. I think I'll have to remove the fender/seat sheet metal to get to it. I have to believe it's something with the shifter as the way I'm looking at the gear layout, it'd be darn near impossible to switch 3rd and 1st inside the case.
Mower size? I think it's a 44" I'll have to measure for sure but it has one big blade about 20" or so and 2 teeny tiny blades maybe 8-10" It's louder than the engine lol. No metal squealing, but sounds more like a flail mower than a mowing deck. For comparison, I've been using a 22 year old Craftsman 42" riding mower. It's easily twice as loud as that!

 

[kmcconaughey]

John, If it has two different length blades it's either a 38" or a 42". A 44" deck would have three blades all of equal length. Is there any play in the spindle bearings? If so they are probably worn out or I suppose they could be loose. Here's a link to the service manual for the 106 and mower decks, click HERE and scroll down to page 124 for the section on the decks.

 

[mgwin]

John,

Welcome to the forum!

Put some grease in the spindles and see if that helps with the noise.
Dry or defective bearings will make a lot of noise, not to mention they will not last long.

If this is the only means of mowing, you hit a bad time for issues.
If you have another mower, I would replace all bearings (hopefully this is the only issue) and be done with it.

Doug Anderson has a real good tag line.
(look at the bottom of his posts)

 

[sblunier]

Don't just grease them, loosen the spindle bolts and grease the pi$$ out of them while slowly spinning the blades. Then retighten and try it again.

Give it room and time to flush the old grease out of the bearings, trning it over as you grease helps.

Also, check the idler bearings on both the deck tensioner and the mule drive pulleys.

 

[mgwin]

That's what I meant to say!

If you are not going to replace the bearings, that is definitely what to do.

If you are thinking of replacing the bearings, just put some grease in to see if it makes a difference.
If that doesn't make any difference with the noise, do what Steve mentioned, and then search for other issues.

One other thought;
An old belt don't make a lot of noise, but it could add to the noise level.

When the serpentine belt on my S-10 gets old, it squeaks just like a bearing going bad.
I can spray some Armorall on it, and it will quit for a few months.

 

[kide]

Kraig - I started looking for the how-to on repairing the shifter on gear drive tractors, after seeing John's issue. I can't find a cubfaq for it - was that one of those things you used to dig up the pics on when there was a question?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Gerry, you mean this:

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

By Ted Shushereba (Master scribe...Keeper of the Scrolls) (Tshushereba) on Thursday, June 17, 1999

Hi Don and Harry-

When I started to work on my first original I had a roll pin that was partially broken, and had to repair it. On my second tractor, I decided to take some pictures of the repair.

The pin inside is a roll pin, the one outside is a tapered pin-so be careful abour which way you remove it. After I removed the tapered pin, I took a small "C" clamp and put it inside the "H" pattern. Then I took a block of wood and a brake adjusting tool to put some force on the cup, then used a ball pien hammer to tap around the cup to force it loose. The cup is hardened, so you won't hurt it if you are careful. It also only goes back one way, so make sure you reinstall it correctly. Neither of mine were tack welded.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

<font size="-1">Additional photos that have been added over the years that might be helpful. As you can likely see, all of this was originally posted for an Original, except for the cut away view, middle photo below) but other gear drives should be similar if not the same.</font>

 

[mgwin]

That works.

I put the small "C" clamp in the vise and tapped lightly with a rubber hammer on the cover plate to remove mine.

 

[kide]

That's it, should be a sticky (Oops - I mean a faq)..

 

[digger]

Gerry I.
You write up a good version and I'll make sure it gets into the FAQ's.

 

[kide]

OK I'll get right on it.... (no, really I'll work on it using Ted's writeup, but I don't do HTML anymore, so we're gonna need a wizard involved too).

 

[digger]

You do it up, tell me where the pics go and I'll figure it out, THANKS MAN!

 

[rchristensen]

I wonder how many people used the C-clamp procedure after seeing the pictures posted by Ted. I know I did. That’s what makes the Forum so valuable is the good information shared by all and the fact that Kraig can provide it at a moments notice.

 

[ccarney]

Kraig -

Did Ted S ever share any of his "scrolls??"

 

[kmcconaughey]

Craig, excellent question! Hydro Harry might be able to answer that. In any case Ted never sent anything to me to scan. I'm not certain what kind of scrolls he was keeping.

 

[dmerkle]

My IH Cub Cadet 149 destroyed the part of the driveshaft that goes into the back of the hub/flywheel. I thought I read that a complete driveshaft assembly from a Hydro Quiet Line IH Cub Cadet would work in a Wide Frame Hydro IH Cub Cadet.
Has anyone tried this? Is this a bolt in?

Thanks for any help!!

 

[sblunier]

I did it on a 169 and it was bolt it...1650 parts to 169....

 

[sblunier]

 

[lkortkamp]

Well, I got to start dismantling the 149 to rebuild the front axle. The 127 is now on mainline service(and doing pretty good).

I got the motor out last night, just need to knock the pivot pin out of axle.

Charlie, I got a new driveshaft from you about a year ago. The drive pin was loose in the hole and you quickly replaced it. After loosing a few 1/4" bolts through the years, I used a worm clamp to act as a safety back up from loosing that pin in the middle of the yard. While removing the coupler to get motor out I noticed the pin had beat a hole in the clamp and was about 1/2 out. I hadn't really looked down in there to keep tabs on it, but wondered how long it was going to hang on?

I think I'm going to make myself a split collar to wrap around that drive pin/coupler and then use a worm clamp to secure it. Maybe that will keep that pin from exiting stage right??

Thoughts?

 

[danderson]

Steve-Lookin’ good.
Saved this for OTF. All the talk about MWI brought me to think of my neighbor. Markie was the town drunk. Lost his drivers license from DUIs. Always drove around on a Ford 3000 tractor. That thing was impounded so many time from him driving it drunk. His dad would always get it out of hock and give it back to him. Sadly life caught up to him and he hanged himself in the house 20 years ago. He was only 37. Nice guy when he wasn’t drunk but that wasn’t often. Sad.