Archive through June 21, 2012

[bproctor]

Bill J,

I noticed the max weight or capacity is 300#. Would this be a problem? I know some of the cubs are a bit hefty. My 125 weighed in at 680# without the deck.

I only bring it up because so many of the products are made in china (not sure about this particular piece) and the quality is often not there.

 

[bjamison]

What do you folks know about a 109? The good, bad and ugly.

Bob - thanks for pointing out the weight limit on that lift.

 

[jharvey]

109= Wideframe, pre-quietline, 10HP, from the 1x8-9 series, the best series IH ever made including the famed 125. Nothing ugly about them!

 

[dfrisk]

BILL J. - A 109 is the 10 hp hydro BETTER version of your 1650. It has the mechanical PTO clutch so you can "Feather" attachments into engagement, solid mounted engine, no rubber mounts to replace, the starter/generator is out in the open, and no side panels.

IMO the 1X8/1X9's are some of the best CCs ever made. I had a 129 for 15 yrs, was my favorite mowing tractor with the 44A deck.

Just about everything about a 109 is good, nothing really Bad, and as Frank C's picture shows, nothing ugly about them at all.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Bill J., have a look at the hoist that Richard C. built some years back. Scroll about 2/3 of the way down the page.

Jerry,

 

[jharvey]

Dream on!

 

[kmcconaughey]

 

[jbaker]

David G hope your still out there, follow kraigs link for a cub lift helper, and Luther also had a good idea (any pics Luther) now I want to make one.

my main pc crashed hard with all my photos and recovery is not looking good.

sorry Kraig I am with Dennis and Jerry 1x8,9 well really just 1x9 ....sorry Tom

 

[dfrisk]

JEFF - I do really like the "Double Zig-Zag Grill" Cubbies, but I prefer mine in the GD flavor.

The removable center cover on the 1X9's makes working on the hydro so much easier.

 

[cmwkrill]

109= Neat little tractor. I can't tell you anything about its operation, as I havent operated mine yet, but its defenitly one cool little tractor. (that day is getting closer and closer...)

 

[dtanner]

jeff l baker

Take the drive out and put into another confuser as a slave and get those pictures off. BTDT Mowed some grass today and I`am not getting any braver on the slope. I will have to post pictures next week.

 

[bwittman]

I continue to fight with, or work on, my 1250, depending on how you feel about the situation.

Thanks to Charlie, I think I have some pictures to add of the motor mounts that I took out of the 1250. They are in such good shape, that I thought I would clean them up and put them back in. I have no idea why I spend that big money at Menard's for a replacement set.

The right rear engine cradle ISO mount hole is damaged. I think it is because of the oddball mount used in the right rear lower ISO. Has anyone seen this before, and is this alright to leave, or should it be welded and filed back to a round hole? Thoughts please?

Once again, thank you, Charlie.

 

[nbartee]

Can someone tell me if the cover on this seat can be replaced, or would it be just as cost effective to replace the entire thing?

 

[dfrisk]

NORM - The metal seat pans themselves never wear out. I'd look in the yellow pages for an auto upholstery shop and let them look at it. Compared to a car/truck seat they're easy to recover, there for not real expensive, but spend a few more bucks for good heavy naugahyde and it'll last much longer.

 

[bwittman]

Norm,

I have the same question.

I was thinking of taking mine to an upholstery shop. I wouldn't mind leather. White leather if they can do it.

 

[nbartee]

Dennis,

So there wasn't a replacement cover available from Cub Cadet?

 

[dfrisk]

NORM - You mean a cover with the drawstring? They won't fit the higher back seats.

The little "U-channel" molding actually holds the cover material on the seat pan, the OEM seats use the cheap vinyl plastic cover material that bonds to the foam padding. So an upholstery shop will need to replace the foam padding & cover both.

Like Brian says, you could even do leather, or any color you want.

I used cheap fabric store naugahyde on the seat on my #72 and sewed the one seam needed on the wife's old sewing machine. The stitching was too close together and even though I double-stitched it the naugahyde ripped next to the stitching after about an hour.

Dad had the seat on the 129 re-done at an upholstry shop, they used better material and coarser stitching, but put too much foam rubber padding in and it ripped too, just took a lot longer.

If the seat pan has the drain holes in the bottom like my 982's seat does, that causes problems with the padding.

Recovering an existing seat could cost as much or even more than a whole new seat, but it should last longer. There's some really good materials available now. I bought a seat for my Super H 7 yrs ago made by K&M Seats, it's a replica of IH's "Tombstone" white seat they used on the high end 56-series Farmall, 756, 856, 1256, 1456. I paid $325 for the seat, almost as much as I paid for the #72 back in 1981, but that seat has 4 inches of foam padding on the bottom & back cushions, fold-down arm rests, looks great on the Super H. Wished we'd had a seat like that on it back in 1968 when I was running it all the time. Most comfortable seat I own, including my leather recliner in the house.

 

[mconway]

Hi Bill, I have a 1973 109, (I think) and have owned it for about 18 years, no problems ever. I put a pic up for ya.

 

[kharvey]

Anyone ever check Speer Cushion to see if you sent in the metal pan they would recover it? They do big tractor seats.

 

[wshytle]

It seems every thing I look into on this 128 has issues. The rear 3pt casting pivot rod was bent on one end. The long arm/rod that goes from the casting to the rockshaft was in backwards, or so it seemed. The zerk was there at the rockshaft as well as the downward bend in the arm. I've always seen these installed the other way so I decided to turn it around. I just did get the two bolts started in the little pivot bracket that attaches to the lift arm itself and now the system won't work up and down like it's suppose to.

It rubs the side mount point of the transmission. It's hard to see but there in the second pic.

What's going on??? I've never encountered this before. Doesn't the slight downward bend go towards the rear? Has anyone ever done any grinding to correct this? It wouldn't take much but shouldn't require any. I could look at my dads tractor which is an exact duplicate but it's burried in between two other cubs.

Any wide framers with the answer?