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Archive through June 19, 2015

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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rrschmitt

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 23, 2005
Messages
798
displayname
Ron R. Schmitt
Earl L,

Another thing to check is the points gap and timing. If the timing has gotten off (retarded) it can cause the engine to seeming labor/lose power because spark is occuring too late and you are not getting full benefit of the combustion during the power stroke and the engine may run hot. Look at the points push rod for signs of wear which could make the points gap/timing go off.

One other thing to check is to make sure you don't have a mouse nest in your cooling shroud blocking airflow. This will cause your engine to overheat, lose power and labor after start up.

Just a couple simple things to check as you troubleshoot your engine.
 
129 Engine problems again/yet
Thanks for all of the great comments. I still have not solved the problem.
This is what I have done so far.
New coil, different plug wire, checked timing (right on), made vent on tank cap bigger, noted comment regarding back pressure and smoke out of breather so I removed muffler. It now is better but it still will bog down after about 15 to 30 minutes. One interesting thing is that there is no smoke coming out of breather until the engine starts to bog down. I would think that there cannot be any back pressure with no muffler. So if there is back pressure now would that be from a bad compression ring. It does not smoke from the exhaust so that tells me that the oil ring is good. I took a compression test and the book said that the starter should spin fast enough to close the compression release, but I don't it is closing because I am getting about 30 lbs of compression.
More comments please
Earl
 
Earl, I think we should be asking "what's the easiest way to free a sticking exhaust valve?". No engine should start so nicely, run great even under load for 15 minutes or so, then start to bog down, spark knock, blow smoke, have load removed, idled down, run OK back to the "garage".
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Earl, the 109 with a 12hp that I was working on did the exact same thing tonight... except it locked up tight and wont crank now. started hard, bogged down, smoked - everything.
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Earl, I kind of agree with Frank. I think you've eliminated all but the most esoteric electrical problems, and at this point I doubt the issue is fuel related unless the the carburetor is doing some really funny things. Therefore, the only thing left is a mechanical issue, especially considering your 30 psi compression test.

Where you go next depends on your style of troubleshooting, in my opinion. You can either:

(1) Open it up by taking the head off to see what you can see, and after 500 hours Kohler (and IH too, I think) recommends removing the carbon, so you're probably due anyhow. There may be some trash on the valve, or some other obvious problem.

(2) You could take the cautious approach and try to narrow the problem down further. If your 30 psi measurement was done on a cold engine that would still start; what is the reading after it won't run?

Problem could be a head gasket losing its seal.

I would vote to open it up and have a look-see. But of course, I would want a new head gasket on hand, and new valve springs too, just in case . . ..

Good luck, I think you're really close to figuring it out.
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Now the hunt begins . I need parts, Local parts guy is to lazy to look up parts and Is a pain to deal with. so I will have to drive 65 miles to get parts ordered . bummer !!!
 
Donald, if you have to order parts anyway, why not do it from the comfort of your computer chair and use the sponsors above?

Then you don't have to go get the either...
 
Earl I have had problems with a bad head gasket that gave similar results. Tractor would run good until it got hot, then quit and blow black smoke. Once it cooled down it would start and run good for awhile. The head gasket would seal when cool but open up when it got hot and the engine woul lose compression. If you look at the engine below the head you may see some black **** running down the side.
 
Poor Earl, by the time he finishes all the suggestions, he's gonna have a completely rebuilt tractor!
 
Nic, I would guess that parts going across the border would be the shticky wicket........ Often he gas them shipped to Frank in Maine, then it's road trip time....
 
Just you and me, mike.....
 
I have read Charlie's tag line, but I am not sure it's true here

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Jeff, put that tractor in the 4th of July parade and see how many cheers you get from the audience... but some smart a$$ might ask if your picking up the garbage cans !
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Allen the only cub I drive in parades is my bad girl "Raggety Ann" 169
hey Frank hows Andy??

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129 Engine problems again/yet
Thank all of you for the comments. I really appreciate them.
I finally pulled of the head. The exhaust valve had a little build up on the stem and the seat was pitted. The seat on the block is also pitted. I thought that I would get a new valve and then use some grinding compound to try and remove some of the pits on the block. The intake valve had carbon on the top but the seat looked good. Not sure if I am going to get a new intake valve or just clean this one up. Jeremiah recommended new springs too. That is probably a good idea, just in case.
We will see what happens when I finish that
Earl
 
hi,i have a 1975 cub cadet 1000 can anyone tell me wy does the coil have a spacer plate does it serve as a ground or just a spacer.hope someone can help me.
 

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