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Archive through June 19, 2011
- Thread starter wshytle
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
Sorry to repost this request, I though perhaps it got overlooked.
Hello all, I just acquired a real basket case original from an older gentleman I helped to replace the steering sector in. He used the original he gave to me for parts. I must be crazy but I just can't let this one fade away. I am going to bring it back to life. Question I have is what type of fasteners are used to join the frame with the gear reduction housing? Is there a dowel used?? I am confused. Any help out there will be much appreciated. This is my first swing at an original.
Tom
Hello all, I just acquired a real basket case original from an older gentleman I helped to replace the steering sector in. He used the original he gave to me for parts. I must be crazy but I just can't let this one fade away. I am going to bring it back to life. Question I have is what type of fasteners are used to join the frame with the gear reduction housing? Is there a dowel used?? I am confused. Any help out there will be much appreciated. This is my first swing at an original.
Tom
jbaker
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 10, 2008
- Messages
- 4,144
- displayname
- jeff l baker
Thomas wish I could help but I am strickly a wide frame 1X8/9 guy, but someone will get you soon,,,
If you go to the bottom of the topics page there is a manual section. When I looked at page 20 of the chassis section (i believe you said an original)it only talks about 4 cap screws probaly 9/16 or 5/8
But I am out of my knowledge zone with narrow frames...
If you go to the bottom of the topics page there is a manual section. When I looked at page 20 of the chassis section (i believe you said an original)it only talks about 4 cap screws probaly 9/16 or 5/8
But I am out of my knowledge zone with narrow frames...
Thanks Jeff.
I'm having a heck of a time trying to figure this noncharging problem I'm dealing with. I've checked and rechecked everything. Every ground is very good, the wiring brand new as well as the v/r, and the s/g came from a tractor it has been charging well. The battery is new too with 420/350. Can an ammeter be bad? The needle moves freely, just constantly towards the D. The solenoid seems to be working well. I guess I may need to remove the v/r and check the internal gaps. I did do the repolarizing thing and it threw a good spark rather than the usual small spark. I know this isn't necessary but I'm grabbing at straws here. I just hope I didn't burn something up in that new v/r.
This is on the 129 btw. Any input as to what I've missed will be appreciated.
I'm having a heck of a time trying to figure this noncharging problem I'm dealing with. I've checked and rechecked everything. Every ground is very good, the wiring brand new as well as the v/r, and the s/g came from a tractor it has been charging well. The battery is new too with 420/350. Can an ammeter be bad? The needle moves freely, just constantly towards the D. The solenoid seems to be working well. I guess I may need to remove the v/r and check the internal gaps. I did do the repolarizing thing and it threw a good spark rather than the usual small spark. I know this isn't necessary but I'm grabbing at straws here. I just hope I didn't burn something up in that new v/r.
This is on the 129 btw. Any input as to what I've missed will be appreciated.
Wayne, i don't mean to but in but if i was in your shoes i would use a volt meter and check the volts at the battery and then check them with the engine runing. the volts should increase with the engine runing. if you need a good volt meter i would reccomend one from oreily's auto parts. they have a nice digital one for about 20 bucks and it really works good. again i don't mean to but in, i'm just hoping i can give some advice in return for all the help i got from this site.
Wayne - You said you put on a new wiring harness. I'd check that. There may be a broke wire somewhere or maybe a crimped end that got the insulation instead of the wire.
Get a 12 gauge and shoot yourself in the foot too.
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
I did do the repolarizing thing and it threw a good spark rather than the usual small spark. I know this isn't necessary but I'm grabbing at straws here.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
It isn't nessary either but as long as you're doing things that hurt instead of help ...
If <blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
the v/r, and the s/g came from a tractor it has been charging well.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
Then why the hell <blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
I guess I may need to remove the v/r and check the internal gaps.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
Again get a 12ga... as long as you're going to mess up a working v/r.
I didn't know they were still making new wiring harnesses. If it's somebody out there selling them then check their work. If it's an old one then look for broke wire or crimped insulation instead of wire.
Get a 12 gauge and shoot yourself in the foot too.
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
I did do the repolarizing thing and it threw a good spark rather than the usual small spark. I know this isn't necessary but I'm grabbing at straws here.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
It isn't nessary either but as long as you're doing things that hurt instead of help ...
If <blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
the v/r, and the s/g came from a tractor it has been charging well.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
Then why the hell <blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
I guess I may need to remove the v/r and check the internal gaps.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
Again get a 12ga... as long as you're going to mess up a working v/r.
I didn't know they were still making new wiring harnesses. If it's somebody out there selling them then check their work. If it's an old one then look for broke wire or crimped insulation instead of wire.
I left out
Take OFF ALL grounds and bring the metal to shiny metal then re-install the grounds. Di-electric grease under the terminals would be good for worry free long term use. This especially means the engine to s/g , v/r and battery ground. Do the positive cable too.
Take OFF ALL grounds and bring the metal to shiny metal then re-install the grounds. Di-electric grease under the terminals would be good for worry free long term use. This especially means the engine to s/g , v/r and battery ground. Do the positive cable too.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Wayne-
Ammeters can go bad. Dumb question, did you connect it backwards?
Ammeters can go bad. Dumb question, did you connect it backwards?
Ken-
I said I was grabbing at straws. I checked the grounds several times by ohming everything I could think of.
Matt-
I studied an extra IH ammeter I had to make sure I got the poles right. Would the needle move on a bad ammeter? This one moves all over the place when tractor is running.
I said I was grabbing at straws. I checked the grounds several times by ohming everything I could think of.
Matt-
I studied an extra IH ammeter I had to make sure I got the poles right. Would the needle move on a bad ammeter? This one moves all over the place when tractor is running.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Wayne-
If the needle goes all over the place that means it's broken or getting close. I'd change that out and see if there's a difference. Have you put a voltmeter across the battery with the engine running? You should have ~13.5V with the engine at full throttle.
If the needle goes all over the place that means it's broken or getting close. I'd change that out and see if there's a difference. Have you put a voltmeter across the battery with the engine running? You should have ~13.5V with the engine at full throttle.
What I have found is,If the ammeter is wired correct if you turn on lights or ignition with the engine NOT running, it should swing over to - discharge.
Jeff,
Thanks for the reply....I'm new at the original scene & prefer to work on wide frames. As you said the info I can see indicates four cap screws connect the reduction housing to the frame. I must have a problem because the only threaded holes are on the side of the housing. The holes across the top appear to have no threads. I wonder if this was a problem. Kinda is now that's for sure.
Thanks for the reply....I'm new at the original scene & prefer to work on wide frames. As you said the info I can see indicates four cap screws connect the reduction housing to the frame. I must have a problem because the only threaded holes are on the side of the housing. The holes across the top appear to have no threads. I wonder if this was a problem. Kinda is now that's for sure.
I went ahead and put another ammeter in and there's no difference. I removed the v/r and have started checking the various gaps. One I found was right on and the other was way off. This is by my understanding the manual which may be leaving something out. The manual doesn't go into great detail but then it probably isn't necessary for most. I bent a stop to change the gap but then the points don't lie flat to each other when closed. It's also hard to understand about the voltage setting to properly operate the points. I hate working on things I know so little about. I know how not to break things and go easy but when I don't understand to begin with it makes things that much more difficult. I read the few paragraphs in the manual several times. It doesn't state how to do these things; it just says do them.
If we have a v/r expert out there I'd sure love to hear from you. Charlie? Ken? Dennis? Matt? etc.
If there are things I need to be looking for now's the time while I have the d**n thing in hand.
If we have a v/r expert out there I'd sure love to hear from you. Charlie? Ken? Dennis? Matt? etc.
If there are things I need to be looking for now's the time while I have the d**n thing in hand.
WAYNE - I got a LOT of practice swapping V/R's years ago on my 72. I'd have to replace them about every two years. Never had ANY luck adjusting them. The one on it now must be close to 16 yrs old with no problems. I relocated it back inside the frame over the differential. Nice and cool and no vibration there as opposed to being over the top of the engine.
Tom "B",
The frame is attached to the transmission with four 3/8" bolts (I think) from the underside. When you get a better look make sure the frame isn't cracked where it attaches to the trans, it's a common break area.
The frame is attached to the transmission with four 3/8" bolts (I think) from the underside. When you get a better look make sure the frame isn't cracked where it attaches to the trans, it's a common break area.
Wayne S.
I'm your expert on VR's and how to fix'um!
If it goes bad, I put a new one on!
I'm your expert on VR's and how to fix'um!
If it goes bad, I put a new one on!
Wayne
Here's some V/R info
Here's some V/R info
Tom H.,
Thanks for the info. My frame looks really good, no cracks. I have two bolts started from the underside with good threads. However across the top....I can see no threads. I did measure the depth of the holes (2) across the top. My probe went 6.5 inches into the housing. Thats a long bolt! Maybe I was using too short of a bolt. Does this make any sense?
Thanks for the info. My frame looks really good, no cracks. I have two bolts started from the underside with good threads. However across the top....I can see no threads. I did measure the depth of the holes (2) across the top. My probe went 6.5 inches into the housing. Thats a long bolt! Maybe I was using too short of a bolt. Does this make any sense?
Thanks Ken, that's some good info on several things.
Charlie-
I took your advice before reading your post except I installed a USED v/r. That was what the problem was; it's charging fine now. Never assume a new part is good until it's doing what it's suppose to. I was trying to ignore the fact that v/r might be bad. I got that regulator with a cub I bought. The v/r was in the original box with the receipt. It sold for $71.56 in May of 06 at a cub dealership. I want to believe the contacts are just real dirty.
Dennis-
I'm inclined to agree with you about agjusting these things. According to the manual there's nothing to it but the way they describe the work isn't that easy to really grasp. Another good thing about having several cubs is plenty of spare parts. Had I done this first thing this morning I could have saved about four hours.
Thanks a lot to all involved!
Charlie-
I took your advice before reading your post except I installed a USED v/r. That was what the problem was; it's charging fine now. Never assume a new part is good until it's doing what it's suppose to. I was trying to ignore the fact that v/r might be bad. I got that regulator with a cub I bought. The v/r was in the original box with the receipt. It sold for $71.56 in May of 06 at a cub dealership. I want to believe the contacts are just real dirty.
Dennis-
I'm inclined to agree with you about agjusting these things. According to the manual there's nothing to it but the way they describe the work isn't that easy to really grasp. Another good thing about having several cubs is plenty of spare parts. Had I done this first thing this morning I could have saved about four hours.
Thanks a lot to all involved!
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