Ryan, you didn't stay in Florida very long! Did you keep your property in Indiana?
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Archive through June 19, 2009
- Thread starter jcleveland
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
Well I'm losing my nieghbors garage to work in. He decided that having a house in NY and living in North Carolina doesnt work too well, and is putting the house and garage on the market. I took the time on Wednesday to haul all the crap out of the shed to fit the 104 in there along with the 106. I found that I could squeeze another Cub in there too! The only problem I have is the 104 isnt even a rolling chassis yet. I'm borrowing a large garden cart from my father that can hold the 104's wieght without too much of a problem and the sides of the cart are removable. I just hope I dont drop the 104 in the middle of the street!!
Hey Mike M. If you ever want to make a trip south of the border for some parts and such let me know. I would be interested in taking a drive sometime. I'm about an hour and a bit west of you.
Thanks for the tips guys on the switch. I've got it apart and the wiring is all good and tight as I rewired it last summer.I think I'm going to have to check the SG.
Thanks for the tips guys on the switch. I've got it apart and the wiring is all good and tight as I rewired it last summer.I think I'm going to have to check the SG.
This is my first post. I can see that people on this site are very knowledgeable about IH cadets and I was wondering if someone could provide me with some assistance. I have a model 680 also made as a model 1282. My drive shaft broke and I have ordered parts but I'm not sure how the fan assembly is installed on the shaft. Could someone provide a diagram of the 680 drive shaft and also provide the steps for installing the new shaft. Thanks, Richard
Richard S., there are two different setup depending on the SN. If you click on the "Cub Cadet Parts Lookup" button at the top of the page and then enter 680 in the space for the model number you can access exploded parts drawings.
Ryan,
Ryan,
Kendell, yep! I just need to figure out where the best location for the valve would be.
After further inspection I think I nailed the clutch adjustments when I assembled it last fall. After I placed a very small amount of lubrication on the driveshaft in the area of the drive pulley, I let the engine run with the transmission in gear, but with the clutch depressed to allow the drive pulley to take a "seat" on the driveshaft. That seems to have done the trick for allowing the driveshaft to stop spinning so I can shift with little or no grinding of gears. Still not sure if the gas leak has gone away or not. No more leaking while I'm running it but to be safe I'm shutting the valve when I shut the engine off. This is a fun tractor to drive around.
but Cubs were made for working! I need to find something to do with it while I finish refurbishing the mower deck and dozer blade. Hmmm I could use it to plow the garden area that I didn't plant this year, or to plow for a food plot at the farm. Or I could grade the gravel driveway even though it's nice and level already.
After further inspection I think I nailed the clutch adjustments when I assembled it last fall. After I placed a very small amount of lubrication on the driveshaft in the area of the drive pulley, I let the engine run with the transmission in gear, but with the clutch depressed to allow the drive pulley to take a "seat" on the driveshaft. That seems to have done the trick for allowing the driveshaft to stop spinning so I can shift with little or no grinding of gears. Still not sure if the gas leak has gone away or not. No more leaking while I'm running it but to be safe I'm shutting the valve when I shut the engine off. This is a fun tractor to drive around.
Greg, could be a couple of things. How worn and loose is the throttle shaft in the carb body? Could be air leaking around the shaft if it's real loose. I suppose it could also be a worn Hydro trunion slot and or weak hydro trunion springs causing the hydro to surge which could result in the engine surging as it attempts to cope with the changing hydro load???
How long since you've changed the Hy-Tran and the hydro filter, might be an issue in the hydro like a partially plugged filter. I'm taking wild guesses here...
Well today the tinkering started with the 127, after it started up and runnin for a few minutes it started to miss then it was smoking from under the hood and then died, when I lifted the hood I found that it was an electrical fire...not too bad just the wires are...well toast, I just wanted to get some opinions about the wiring harness, is it worth it to make a new one myself or is it just as easy to buy a new one? what kinda luck have people had with the pre-made verses making your own?
Richard Barnes,
As you know there aren't that many wires on your 127. But by the time you buy the wire ect... it might be cheaper to buy one already made. If you go the way of a pre made vs. good used, ask if the battery cables are included and the cable from the starter solenoid to the S/G. There may be an extra charge for those.
As you know there aren't that many wires on your 127. But by the time you buy the wire ect... it might be cheaper to buy one already made. If you go the way of a pre made vs. good used, ask if the battery cables are included and the cable from the starter solenoid to the S/G. There may be an extra charge for those.
kide
Well-known member
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- Gerry Ide
Greg P:
before you get too esoteric on the surging problem - a too lean setting of the high speed needle on the carburetor will cause it to surge, this can also be a fuel line, or needle and seat flow restriction... also note that the loose throttle shaft issue usually affects the idle more than the WOT situation..
before you get too esoteric on the surging problem - a too lean setting of the high speed needle on the carburetor will cause it to surge, this can also be a fuel line, or needle and seat flow restriction... also note that the loose throttle shaft issue usually affects the idle more than the WOT situation..
Richard B.
I would make the decision about making the harness based on a couple of factors. I've built 'em myself, and repair electrical machinery for a living. In addition to the wire, loom, etc. you are going to need ring terminals, crimpers, and wire strippers for the different gauges of wire you are going to be using. Except for the battery to S/G wires and so on, most of the work can be done with 14 AWG wire and a multipurpose crimper. The real problem is dealing with the heavy gauge stuff, you'll need a crimper that is up to the job. If you got most of the stuff laying around you'll need, and are familiar with and have the proper tools, I'd say go for it, but it is more work than you think it will be.
Here are a few more tips:
There are some special purpose connectors, such as for the ignition switch you will have to salvage from the old harness and splice into the new one. Leave plenty of pigtail from the old connectors, I prefer to use twisted and soldered connections, and use heat shrink tubing to insulate them.
Don't just twist the wires together and use electrical tape or wire nuts. It's messy and those things have a way of becoming undone. Neatness counts big time, obviously don't make your wires too short, but don't make them excessively long either. Loops of excess wire have a way of finding their way into linkages, or drooping onto rotating parts, BTDT.
That being said, I'm not above getting a good used harness if the price is right.
I would make the decision about making the harness based on a couple of factors. I've built 'em myself, and repair electrical machinery for a living. In addition to the wire, loom, etc. you are going to need ring terminals, crimpers, and wire strippers for the different gauges of wire you are going to be using. Except for the battery to S/G wires and so on, most of the work can be done with 14 AWG wire and a multipurpose crimper. The real problem is dealing with the heavy gauge stuff, you'll need a crimper that is up to the job. If you got most of the stuff laying around you'll need, and are familiar with and have the proper tools, I'd say go for it, but it is more work than you think it will be.
Here are a few more tips:
There are some special purpose connectors, such as for the ignition switch you will have to salvage from the old harness and splice into the new one. Leave plenty of pigtail from the old connectors, I prefer to use twisted and soldered connections, and use heat shrink tubing to insulate them.
Don't just twist the wires together and use electrical tape or wire nuts. It's messy and those things have a way of becoming undone. Neatness counts big time, obviously don't make your wires too short, but don't make them excessively long either. Loops of excess wire have a way of finding their way into linkages, or drooping onto rotating parts, BTDT.
That being said, I'm not above getting a good used harness if the price is right.
I got home from work just as the skies opened up here, which was followed by a brisk westerly wind. This meant that my hopes of getting started on painting were stymied, but I did go through and did a little more sanding on all the little bits, such as the gas tank, air cleaner, etc, once it dried out some.
After fiddling with sanding for a while, and the westerly breeze dried out the lawn, it was time to use the 129 to make some hay again. My problem with the drifting ignition timing seems to be back again. Pulled the points cover off and left it off. The points seemed to be misaligned a bit, but I adjusted them well enough to keep the engine in the zone between it laboring excessively with retarded timing and preignition, and again once it was dialed in it ran like a champ. Looks like I should at least get a new set of points, I sure hope it isn't the points lobe on the cam causing this problem.
After fiddling with sanding for a while, and the westerly breeze dried out the lawn, it was time to use the 129 to make some hay again. My problem with the drifting ignition timing seems to be back again. Pulled the points cover off and left it off. The points seemed to be misaligned a bit, but I adjusted them well enough to keep the engine in the zone between it laboring excessively with retarded timing and preignition, and again once it was dialed in it ran like a champ. Looks like I should at least get a new set of points, I sure hope it isn't the points lobe on the cam causing this problem.
jmacdonald
Well-known member
On my mod 70 my 42" deck developed a spindle problem and some rust under the end rotor housing. I had purchased a 38" deck some time ago off of a mod 70. Tonight I tried to mount the 38" deck, but the deck wheels hit my tires (23x8,50x12.) In the parts look up I see that there was a set of (part 28) 480323-R91 "SUPPORT ASSY, GAUGE WHEEL TRACTORS W/16 X 6.50-8 FRONT OR 23 X 8.50-12 REAR TIRES" There must have been a narrow tire option and the 38" did not hit these tires. It looked to me that to solve the problem I would need to locate these two brackets (wish me luck with that)to move the wheels toward the middle rear of the deck. However I still have a problem with the end rotor housing (part 21) where the my wheels currently attach. Without the wheels the arms that you attach the wheels to are still hitting the tires. I was wondering if there is a fix for that. I was toying with the idea of turning the rear deck brackets around hoping that might push the deck forward so the wheels might clear the tires. Otherwise it's trying to get the old 42" deck patched and hoping the spindles from the 38" will fit the repaired 42". Hate to canabilize a complete deck. So much for "I'll be right back just going to the garage to swap out my deck"
