I have a 104 that has the rear 540 PTO. I've been thinking of selling it. Are these units really as rare as some people are telling me they are? The tractor is in nice shape and I just don't really know if I should part with it
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Archive through June 18, 2017
- Thread starter nhuffman
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mgwin
Well-known member
Joe,
I still am betting something is not aligned up right.
They shouldn't be breaking that easily, unless the tractor is being used in tractor pulls.
I still am betting something is not aligned up right.
They shouldn't be breaking that easily, unless the tractor is being used in tractor pulls.
jzimmerman
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- Joe Zimmerman
The new plate was the same as the old. Let me take a hard look at things when I pull it apart. Be a week or so, as I am out of town a good chunk of this week.
What could get misaligned here? The engine is hard mounted as is the rear. Obviously something is wrong, but what am I looking for?
What could get misaligned here? The engine is hard mounted as is the rear. Obviously something is wrong, but what am I looking for?
jzimmerman
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- Joe Zimmerman
This may be heresy, or not allowed, but I'll ask anyway.
I've been using this 128 as my only mower (other than a push mower) for the last 15+ years. We moved from a one acre property to two. If I was to put the 128 into reserve duty, what would be a good unit to buy? Last new mower I bought was over 30 years ago.
I've been using this 128 as my only mower (other than a push mower) for the last 15+ years. We moved from a one acre property to two. If I was to put the 128 into reserve duty, what would be a good unit to buy? Last new mower I bought was over 30 years ago.
Joe Z.-
It could be a number of things wrong. The 3 pin driver has a bushing that can wear or something could be bent. I agree with Marty that something's amiss here. These clutch systems can last 20+ years before needing any attention if everything is correct and in good condition (and used correctly).
And as for a mower to replace the 128, I'd go for a 129...the hydro version of a 128. I remember hearing the 129 was one of the best selling units for IH if not the best during its time.
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It could be a number of things wrong. The 3 pin driver has a bushing that can wear or something could be bent. I agree with Marty that something's amiss here. These clutch systems can last 20+ years before needing any attention if everything is correct and in good condition (and used correctly).
And as for a mower to replace the 128, I'd go for a 129...the hydro version of a 128. I remember hearing the 129 was one of the best selling units for IH if not the best during its time.
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Joe Z.i just repaired a clutch for a guy that had the same problem ,.what he did wrong was install the cross brace for the clutch on the wrong side of the frame ,should go on the bottom side ,,not sure if this helps ,
jzimmerman
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- Joe Zimmerman
Thanks. Clutch bracket is under the top rail of the frame. Keep 'em coming. There is an answer to this.
Was this a NEW driver??
If not, were the 3 pins severely worn? Loose?
Lots of slop in the drive train spirol pins front and rear? Loose?
Add these all up and throw in a broken teaser spring, sticky throw out bearing and one would wind up with herky jerky clutch engagement w/resultant component damage??
Foot slipped off the clutch pedal?
Just a few things that ran through my feeble brain as I followed this thread
If not, were the 3 pins severely worn? Loose?
Lots of slop in the drive train spirol pins front and rear? Loose?
Add these all up and throw in a broken teaser spring, sticky throw out bearing and one would wind up with herky jerky clutch engagement w/resultant component damage??
Foot slipped off the clutch pedal?
Just a few things that ran through my feeble brain as I followed this thread
My 169 hydro valves are stuck down and I want to pull them out and clean them. They are very tight and I dont want to round off the head. Whats the best tool to get these things out? And would it be best to just replace them with auto valves and not have to buy the missing release lever and metal parts?
George L.
Soak'um for a couple 2 or 3 days with PB Blaster or Kroil, and use a dental pick or something along those lines and clean out around each one and soak again.
After a week or so, you should be able to push them down just a little and re-soak'um.
Once they get a little loose, you can take needle nose pliers and work them around and up and down and they should pop up on their own.
Soak'um for a couple 2 or 3 days with PB Blaster or Kroil, and use a dental pick or something along those lines and clean out around each one and soak again.
After a week or so, you should be able to push them down just a little and re-soak'um.
Once they get a little loose, you can take needle nose pliers and work them around and up and down and they should pop up on their own.
Digger/Wayne,
Thanks for the suggestions. I don't think there is enough surface area exposed on the heads for a good grip to back these out. An open end wrench would slip and not too sure about a ratchet (maybe a thin wall); these things are really tight. Ummmm, RH threads yes? Should they be snug as a sparkplug or should they be cranked down? And I see signs of teflon tape.
Thanks for the suggestions. I don't think there is enough surface area exposed on the heads for a good grip to back these out. An open end wrench would slip and not too sure about a ratchet (maybe a thin wall); these things are really tight. Ummmm, RH threads yes? Should they be snug as a sparkplug or should they be cranked down? And I see signs of teflon tape.
Attachments
George- They seal with o rings so no tape should be needed. No need to crank on them either.
George-
Do like Charlie said and soak'em. I use a long, box end wrench (1" IIRC) that's offset. The "box" of the wrench sort of tapers down and is thinner allowing a nice grip around the hex. They can be stubborn and it has probably been a while so be patient.
I have been noticing a change in the way my 149 mower has been acting so today I decided to go through the carb for a cleaning. I found the clamp-type end piece on the throttle shaft had vibrated loose a bit and I could take it apart with just my fingers. I had already been here before and installed a Hillman bushing as well as an o-ring which worked well. I removed the o-ring and saw there was probably room for another Hillman so that's what I did. It went down flush after dressing the edge a bit and took about all of the play from the shaft. That must have been my main issue with the way the engine was running because it fixed the problem and was back running like a sewing machine again. Once I got back to mowing the afternoon storms started up. That's the hardest thing to deal with this time of the year. I can almost hear the grass growing so here we have to mow when the mowing's good.
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Do like Charlie said and soak'em. I use a long, box end wrench (1" IIRC) that's offset. The "box" of the wrench sort of tapers down and is thinner allowing a nice grip around the hex. They can be stubborn and it has probably been a while so be patient.
I have been noticing a change in the way my 149 mower has been acting so today I decided to go through the carb for a cleaning. I found the clamp-type end piece on the throttle shaft had vibrated loose a bit and I could take it apart with just my fingers. I had already been here before and installed a Hillman bushing as well as an o-ring which worked well. I removed the o-ring and saw there was probably room for another Hillman so that's what I did. It went down flush after dressing the edge a bit and took about all of the play from the shaft. That must have been my main issue with the way the engine was running because it fixed the problem and was back running like a sewing machine again. Once I got back to mowing the afternoon storms started up. That's the hardest thing to deal with this time of the year. I can almost hear the grass growing so here we have to mow when the mowing's good.
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George L,
I use the appropriate size 1/2" drive socket to fit the hex of the release valve along with a 1/2" ratchet. Make sure you thoroughly clean the area around the valve(s) to prevent dirt getting inside your hydro pump.
I use the appropriate size 1/2" drive socket to fit the hex of the release valve along with a 1/2" ratchet. Make sure you thoroughly clean the area around the valve(s) to prevent dirt getting inside your hydro pump.
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Hey Wayne - I can't quite follow what you did on your 149 throttle linkage. Any chance you can post some pics so we get a look/see?
George L - I've always used a 1/2" drive socket and ratchet (as Ron also said), which I think is your best bet to remove those valves. They can be really tight but you should be able to break them loose.
George L - I've always used a 1/2" drive socket and ratchet (as Ron also said), which I think is your best bet to remove those valves. They can be really tight but you should be able to break them loose.
Hydro-
It's the clamp type connection on top of the throttle shaft that connects to the governor. Some are not removable and in order to add the bushing you have to remove the butterfly screws to access the shaft/add the bushing. This is the clamp on type that can be removed to add the bushing. I would include a pic but it's all back together and asleep out in the barn. I just didn't tighten the clamp well enough the first time when I rebuilt the carb. It wasn't running too badly but I could tell something wasn't right. The throttle would change by itself at times and it acted a little like the carb had dirt in it. I do this to a lot of my tractors periodically when they start acting up or different. The carb is almost always the first place I go and it's usually a quick fix. Plus once you have done several it's easy...just don't remove the thin bowl gasket if at all possible; it won't go back in immediately because it will have to dry and shrink to fit properly. I didn't mention it but the air filter was pretty dirty...new, but dirty. I also found dirt in the bowl but not much. This has been the only mower I've used so far this year and I mow almost daily having so much grass.
I've found the 149 with a 48" deck to be a very nice mowing combo. I think I'm going to put another one together for back up. I might even put a 48" on the 169. It's got a 44A mounted now but I have the proper undercarriage, etc. for the switch.
Thanks for asking. I haven't seen anyone in a few days now so this is one way I can vent...on the forum.
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It's the clamp type connection on top of the throttle shaft that connects to the governor. Some are not removable and in order to add the bushing you have to remove the butterfly screws to access the shaft/add the bushing. This is the clamp on type that can be removed to add the bushing. I would include a pic but it's all back together and asleep out in the barn. I just didn't tighten the clamp well enough the first time when I rebuilt the carb. It wasn't running too badly but I could tell something wasn't right. The throttle would change by itself at times and it acted a little like the carb had dirt in it. I do this to a lot of my tractors periodically when they start acting up or different. The carb is almost always the first place I go and it's usually a quick fix. Plus once you have done several it's easy...just don't remove the thin bowl gasket if at all possible; it won't go back in immediately because it will have to dry and shrink to fit properly. I didn't mention it but the air filter was pretty dirty...new, but dirty. I also found dirt in the bowl but not much. This has been the only mower I've used so far this year and I mow almost daily having so much grass.
I've found the 149 with a 48" deck to be a very nice mowing combo. I think I'm going to put another one together for back up. I might even put a 48" on the 169. It's got a 44A mounted now but I have the proper undercarriage, etc. for the switch.
Thanks for asking. I haven't seen anyone in a few days now so this is one way I can vent...on the forum.
.
Thanks to all for the hydro advice, I have them soaking in "stuff." I'll follow Wayne's advice and keep my eye out for those thin offset box wrenches as I need to build up my "thin" wrench collection.
I'm ordering Carlisle Ag tires (23x8.50x12) for the 169 to put on a set of Firestone 12x7 wheels and notice the valve is on the inside. This is the first time I have seen valves in the inside, is there anything I should know before I do this? Will the inside valve cause problems with external brakes? I don't think I want 23x10.5's because they look too big, will the 8.5's look too small? The 8.5 ag tires look perfect on my 122.
I'm ordering Carlisle Ag tires (23x8.50x12) for the 169 to put on a set of Firestone 12x7 wheels and notice the valve is on the inside. This is the first time I have seen valves in the inside, is there anything I should know before I do this? Will the inside valve cause problems with external brakes? I don't think I want 23x10.5's because they look too big, will the 8.5's look too small? The 8.5 ag tires look perfect on my 122.
