Archive through June 18, 2008

[dmerkle]

Cub Cadets with attachments:
Tom Peter's Orginal in the feature tractor area.

More pictures in Red Power topic.

 

[fcurrier]

Hydro whine...Hydro whine...where have I heard that term used negatively? Huh. All my Cubs have been hydros until a 1200 came in here and I'll put its whine up against any hydro! Don't get me wrong, I'm leaning toward gear drives - this sucker's making a believer out of me (thanks, Don T. for not hauling it across the border when you had the chance, if not the room).

 

[theaton]

Frank C. My 128 has(had,still has?) a good whine. Mostly at half or lower throttle. Had to be in 2nd or 3rd gear though. Anything above H/T and the whine was spanked away by the 12hp barkin away!! Even worse if ya have a surging engine...WHineWHineWHine.

 

[jparsons]

I have a model 71 cub cadet that has a steering problem. Can anyone give me a lead on what might cause the following problem? The steering wheel is easy to turn to make the tractor go left. It is harder to turn to make it go right. If I jack the front up and take the tractor's weight off the front wheels, the steering wheel turns easily in either direction. I've greased the grease fittings and it helps but only for a short while. The steering rods do not appear to be bent and the front wheels are toed in as suggested in the manual. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[theaton]

John P., Have you checked the air pressure in the front tires? I would also check the wheel bearings on the right side. You said that with the front end jacked up everything turns freely. In my thinking, something is being "overloaded" on the right front. I.E., tire pressure, wheel bearing or sumthin else.

 

[stanner]

John P...
sounds like your steering box is in need of attention, perhap a rebuild..... see FAQ's for details... HTH

 

[bmcclure]

I am new to this and need some good advice from some of you experts. I have a 125 that I use a lot at my cabin for mowing, grading, and blowing snow. The other day while mowing part of the cooling fan for the hydro sheared and came out. It took me some time to find out what it was and when I did I got out the rest of the fan and it seems to run fine now. My question is, what might happen if I run with out the fan? If I limit my mowing and grading and mostly use it in the winter would I be OK or do I try to put in a new fan.

Bob McClure

 

[mgonitzke]

I think I'll put that loader I bought on my 782. I don't know a ton about these. I'm not sure where I should mount it to on the frame and if I should mount it to the rearend or not. I found a couple of pictures of Steve B's loader, but I can't tell where everything bolts on from what I found. Anyone have any pictures of loader subframes? Thanks!

 

[lbuttke]

Bob M.

If it where me I would replace the fan, and advoid the risk of over heating the hydro pump.

Fan blades can be found at some of the sponcers (colorfull boxes atop of the page)

 

[jthompson]

I know this is going to sound like a "no-brainer", but I'm extremely familiar with Murphy's Law, so pardon this stupid question: I'm about to begin the reassembly of my 126 this weekend. When disassembling I drove the spirol pins out with no problem. To reinstall them do I just tap them in with a hammer, or is there a certain way to get them back in the holes without destroying them and my new paint?

 

[dtanner]

Jim a little trick i have used in the past was for parts the were a tight fit like a pin i would put the pins in the freezer and tap them in when they were cold. I think you will find this easy . Just my .02

 

[sblunier]

Matt,

Let me know if you need anything more....

 

[mgonitzke]

Steve B.-

Yes, those do help quite a bit

So, the back of that connects to the axle tubes, and nothing else? How's that been working out for you?

How did you attach the frontmost part of that? Do the shoulder bolts for the QA still work? I think I'll use an old mule drive to make my pump mount.

About how much weight to you have on your tractor?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Matt, this is from a Johnson loader manual but it might be helpful.

 

[jmacdonald]

Being mechanically challenged I have a question. If I should be "lucky" enough to find a hydrolic lift (that I could afford)for a narrow frame. Is the attachment to the rockshaft my big problem? I want one for my mod 125 and possibly for my favorite mod 70. Looking at the parts lookup it looks like a simple install except for the attachment to the rockshaft. Rarely do I see hyrdrolic rockshafts for sale with the hydro pump. I would appreciate any thoughts!

 

[kmcconaughey]

James, actually you use the existing rockshaft/lift arm, you just have to modify it by cutting off the lift arm portion. If the chrome on your 125 rockshaft/lift arm is in really good condition I would suggest removing it and selling it to someone looking for a non-rusted rockshaft/lift arm, rusty chrome lift arms are easy to come by, I have a few myself....

 

[ccarney]

James -

On the add-on "juice lift" accessories for the narrow frames:

1) electric lift rockshafts (from 147's) don't work, for me at least, the side to side spacing is too much;

2) The original kit included a bolt-on piece part that is substituted for the lift handle. The instructions say to chop off the hand lift with a hacksaw and substitute this part, bolting it to the slot like one would do a 3pt "block." Incidentally, this piece part also functions as a substitute for said 3pt block.

3) try to find a lift where the slotted "hasp" at the cylinder end isn't bent up. Makes the flipping "float lock" tab more usable. Float lock tabs are usually ruined or missing from assemblies, but one or more resto suppliers can set you up with a reproduction…

4) If you do push blades or snowthrowers you will have to modify your lift rod "paddle" to accommodate your altered rockshaft too.

 

[jwentz]

Kraig and Matt, I have a Johnson loader on my 1650. I had to add a forward brace from the top of the loader towers to the front of the frame (as you see on most loaders). One of my towers was bent forward and once I had that straightened out, I added the braces to prevent the bending in the future. It was easy and well worth the effort.

 

[jmacdonald]

Thanks Craig C. I will be using it on a snowthrower never gave a thought to the paddle. I will eyeball that area tonight.

Thanks Kraig M. nothing beats a good photo. It isn't obvious to me why they want two 7/64 holes drilled in the lift handle shaft. Other than that it sure clears up a lot of things for me.

Thanks again to both of you.

Can't wait to get the garage insulated so I can work on my cubs as the snow flies.

 

[kmcconaughey]

James, the two holes are for cotter pins to keep the rockshaft from sliding side to side. Because the lift stop ratchet is removed, it is no longer there to limit side to side movement of the rockshaft.