Archive through June 13, 2010

[anixon]

cc106 spindle pin. does anybody know the size or part # to get these.
its the pin holding front spindle to arm drag link.
also any speical way to install them.
thanks
allen

 

[lrenaud]

Well I been promising pics so I hope this works
http://s32.photobucket.com/albums/d3/leonrenaud/tractors/international%20tractor/?action=view&current=misc012.jpg This is the 125 and the next link will connect you to some of my "other Color" tractors I have roughly 3 dozen right now but won't be keeping them all.
http://s32.photobucket.com/albums/d3/leonrenaud/tractors/?action=view&current=IMG_3097.jpg

 

[dtanner]

Allen Schumacher

Yep this is a shot from behind my 5th wheel early am Saturday morning.

And thanks Frank ! I never get good deals on Cub parts cause of shipping .$$$$ Charlie will get the weights for his better half to use.Now I must call my son in The Pas and see how he is doing. Later Don T

 

[aschumacher]

Leon, your lucky to live in the North-east, otherwise KentuckyKen and dozens of others would be decending on your property to help you thin the herd! Still a few people in range to visit you. Dont forget we have a section in the classifieds for 'other' types of tractors if your looking to sell.

 

[aschumacher]

Allen N, Hi, this is Allen S. If the new guy with the last name of Schumacher posts at the same time as us , we could really mess with some peoples minds!!
RE; your steering pin, go up top to the business cards and click on CC Specialties, then Steering and Seats. looks like he has the pins. wait till later and into tomorrow for more input from the members. <font size="-2">Where the heck is Shamong??)</font>

 

[gsmyth]

1450
I thought that I was out of the woods. I reassembled everything checked all the bolts checked to make sure all the gaps were set properly. Made sure that I had the newly installed fan out of the way of the mule drive and that the drive shaft didn’t wobble. Fired it up checked forward and reverse. OK. Let it run and no smoke, no oil spray. Felt pretty good about the whole thing.
Then I took it on a circuit around the yard up and down hills. Speed at full throttle seemed to be slower than I recalled though. The engine ran and the throttle changed engine speeds but it never seemed to get to full power the way I remember. Then it was time to come back up the hill. I wouldn’t make it. I had to turn horizontal to get to a road and creep up the hill. This is without the deck. If I had the deck operating for sure it would not go up the hill. What now? I did notice back in the garage that the hooded wire to the starter was loose and would not stay and that would stop the tractor or bounce it around if it was not always in contact, but I don’t get the loss of speed. I didn’t touch anything that might affect the transmission except perhaps when I moved the engine to drop the drive shaft and then reinsert it. The engine is as solid and correct now as it ever has been in the last nine years. I don’t know what to check next. I need power for the drive and for the deck once the replacement spindle is in place. Is there a throttle adjustment? Suggestions please. So close and now this.

 

[anixon]

ALLEN S. just outside of medford, Tabernacle.

 

[mschutz]

Gary,I dont know alot about W/Fs but check the govener.

 

[bproctor]

Frank

I made a boo boo and posted something I shouldn't have.

 

[hydroharry]

Gary S - I did a search to find what your original issue/problem was but couldn't find it. If you didn't disconnect the Governor spring I would not attempt to adjust it. Let us know your original problem again and why you removed the engine. Your last message makes it sound as tho you believe you are getting full throttle. That throttle cable connector on the side of a Kohler AQS can sometimes be a bear, to connect and get back to the correct position (it's tied together with the choke and sometimes slips when you tighten the screw). I'd make sure the cable is allowing you the correct idle rpm's and correct full throttle rpm's. It could be slipping back and forth in the connector.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die - they just find another resting place

 

[bproctor]

Gary

Hopefully someone will give this a yeah or neah.

Have you thought of the damper spring plate and springs on the trans? I believe the problem you descibed match the signs of worn out damper plate and springs. Engine is running fine but the tractor wont go like it use to. Especially, when going up a hill.

I believe the damper spring plate and springs are designed to dampen the transition from stop to go. So the movement isn't so jerky. I don't know exacly how this works but as they ware out the trans gives less and less of a response. I bet you can't do wheelies any more. I do remember that it is most noticeable when traveling up an incline.

Seems like someone posted a "how to" on this. Unfortunately this is a split job so definitely get a second & third opinion. Try a search.

Hope this helps!

 

[bproctor]

Gary

Going up hill, does the engine struggle or does it sound like it's running correctly?

Give as much detailed info as you can and I'm sure one of these tractor doctors will help.

 

[bproctor]

Gary

That might also be called a trunion plate.

 

[jdeshazo]

hi,
i am working on the onan out of my 982 the timing cover/gear case behind the flywheel has copper washers under the bolts can i reuse the old washers or should i try to locate new ones any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks josh

 

[jdiederichs]

Josh,

The "safe" answer is to replace those copper washers every time, to prevent leakage around the bolts. In reality, lots of engine guys don't and simply reuse them. Is it worth taking a chance? Not for the price of some copper washers that can be found at most NAPA stores.

As a last resort, you can also get them from the local deere store (if lawn and garden dealer).

Bottom line, any job worth doing is worth doing right.....}

 

[kphill]

Josh, Those sound like what are called crush washers. They seal by using a softer metal that acts as a gasket around the fastener when torqued to spec. They are really designed for one use only. So yes, I would replace them.

 

[dtanner]

Jim Diederichs

Those copper washers remind me of the copper head gaskets on my Norton 850 interstate. They could be reused 3 times. All you had to do was to heat them till they turned colour and that would make the copper swell and get soft again. Have you ever heard of doing this??. Don

 

[cstewart]

Good morning, esteemed CC fans. I'm hoping to get some help diagnosing my 147's sudden problem.

I was hauling mulch over the weekend and had it idling while I dumped a batch, when it started running rough. I hopped on it and started up the driveway and it suddenly stopped. Continued cranking had no effect either immediately, or after it cooled. I was thinking it may be a fuel problem, so sprayed starter fluid into the intake, but it didn't even spit or sputter. I checked and reset the points to .020, and made sure the resistance was infinity and zero when opened and closed, but nothing. I checked for spark. There was a very small week spark. I also noticed the coil had gotten rather hot, so I measured the resistance - 7.8 ohms.

I'm inclined to think it's the coil, but the resistance reading seems pretty normal. Any ideas what to check next? The ol' beast is still sitting in my driveway, and I'd like to get it moved soon.

I'm also not sure how to use the transmission dump valve. The little metal arm is horizontal and I tried moving it 90° up and down, but it doesn't want to seem to move. I just want to tow it 50 feet or so - how do I move it?

Thanks.

 

[jdeshazo]

hey guys thanks for the input on the washers i'll stop and get some new ones. thanks again josh

 

[mschutz]

Chip, How about the condenser next to the coil.