Archive through June 11, 2011

[dfrisk]

DAVE - I saw that comment box too. I was temped to sent them another message.

Been a while since I had my QA-36 mounted but I think you are correct the blade lift rod would be longer. I still have my 42" blade mounted on the 70. I might just take it off along with the chains today. I don't think we'll get any more snow this winter. I took my big blade off the loader on the Super H Thursday. I never like to rush into this "Change of seasons" thing. ;-)

 

[pvanbenschoten]

I have a painting question. I am getting ready to prime all the parts that have been sandblasted. What should I do with machined surfaces like on the front axle? Leave them alone? Paint like everything else?

 

[dross]

Paul, From expirience I can tell you paint is thicker than you think, where ever you get paint in on the places you point to you'll have to clean out, add the grease jerk holes to your list of thingsd to keep the paint out of. Anouther thing to consider right now is if your front axle doesn't have a grease zerk for the center pivot pin, now is the time to add one.

 

[dross]

Dennis thanks for that, I traded a QA42 for a QA42A a couple winters ago but haven't used it yet. When I got my 42" blade out the other day to work on the yard the only lift bar I could find was short. It's still gonna bug me till I drag the blower over here to try it on.

 

[pvanbenschoten]

Thanks Dave, If you are talking about the holes where Pin #1 and Steering Knuckles #6 and #7 go, I was planning on keeping paint out of them. The flat surfaces are what I was wondering about. But, maybe you were talking about the same areas that I was

I tried to show some of them in this picture:

 

[dross]

Paul, I was talking about the holes. To me paint is rust prevention. If the paint becomes a problem for you on the flat sufaces thier pretty easy to clean up.

 

[thoffman]

Paul VB,
Leave the washer and the steering arm on while painting. Remember to scratch the paint off the zerk fittings and you'll be golden. The first geasing the grease get all over the place anyhow.

 

[dfrisk]

PAUL VB - Dave is exactly right. I used to work for a company that made food & chemical processing equipment and we had extreme wash down requirements for ALL our machines, steam cleaning, pressure washing with hot water, and caustic acid washes. Every machined surface had to have something protecting the surfaces because the fact that bacteria could grow if food products got trapped in there. You have NO idea how many problems that caused in assembly.

If it was me, I'd assemble the frt axle, install the spindles, tie rods, put a small piece of masking tape over the grease zerks, also tape the frt wheel spindles were the wheel bearings of the wheel will go, and mask off the two machined faces & bore for the axle pivot pin. But that's just me.

If you sand blasted any assembles, you want to make sure absolutely NO sand got inside them. Dad had a Farmall 450 tractor sand blasted & repainted. Took us a YEAR to get all the problems with that tractor sorted out after that!

Blasting does make for great paint adhesion. I blasted & painted a rear rim on my Super H Farmall last weekend. Planning on doing the reast of the rims too.

 

[jbaker]

Dave,,, the lift rods are different BTDT I have the measurements wrote on the garage wall at home, but I am at work now.

 

[digger]

OK, I need some help here guys!
I dunno how to answer her question!

"Dear Sirs,
I have a International Cub Cadet 1282, The serial no. is 205 0587 U 706609, the model No. is 142680399. The mower runs great, but we cannot mow with it because we cannot figure out how to put fluid in the PTO to run. We do not have a book on it, any information I can get from you I would truly appreciate.
Thank You
Teresa"

 

[elthomas]

Oh boy charlie that's a tough one.

 

[flclark]

Paul, I am re-assembling my 125 after refinishing. I have attached pictures. My parts were bead blasted, areas were masked, and then finished.

 

[dross]

Chalie, you could try the truth, there is no fluid in the PTO. However, before operating the grass cutting devise you should check on the half life of the dilithium crystals. Which, I'm sure you know, must be kept above critical levels. The manual has the proccedure, but to move things along, let me help. Start the tractor and let come up to operating tempreture. Turn on the PTO. If it doesn't explode your good. If you have any more questions please feel free to E-mail Charlie. I'm just here to help.

 

[mgonitzke]

Charlie-

I think she's got that wrong...the fluid is for the muffler bearings.

 

[aschumacher]

Hummmm...dilitheum crystals...isn't that what hyperactive things take to quiet down ?
Charlie, I suspect you looked at the MTD Manual site and found the books are not avail. on-line. And you dont have any copys. Do you have any way to do a search on member profiles to see who has a 1282 and could copy /fax a manual to you/requestor ? Other wise get her phone # and try to help her that way. <font size="-2">Without biting your tongue too hard!</font>

 

[dphelps]

Binder Books' website states they have manuals for a 1282.
sounds like they might be helpful.

Didn't this guy always talk about Reading the Factory Manual....

 

[aschumacher]

OK, its 11:30 where I am. See everyone in the morning. I'll leave the lights on since I stepped on Hydro Harry a couple nights ago. <font size="-2">Sorry Harry, forgot about the time difference</font>

 

[dfrisk]

CHARLIE - I hope Teresa isn't trying to put motor oil in the ENGINE after it all ran out!

Those holes in the side of the K301's block can sure make a mess!

 

[balbrecht]

Frank C,
One thing to check on your reassembly is that front bolt for the axel pin. I can't see the back side, but a standard bolt head will hit the oil pan (you need to grind it way down). You probably already did that. The other issue you might run into is on the nut side. If you intend to attach one of the QA style mules drives, I think you'll find that the bolt will stick out too far to get the mule drive to attach properly. I ran into that problem on a wide frame, and just last week looked at doing this on my 127 but thought the clearance was going to be very tight even with one the thin style nylock nuts. There's little clearance between the front axel cross member and the pulley hanger on the QA mule drives.

 

[flclark]

Brian,

Thanks for the help. I have conducted a test fit of the oil pan and there seems to be enough clearance. I will recheck, and will post a picture. At this point, A second opinion is worth doing it over. I will also test fit the the mule drive and post a picture as well.

Thanks again for the help. I appreciate it!

FC