Archive through June 11, 2007

[rchristensen]

Somehow I get the feeling Kraig pays these people to ask for pictures of the 125!!!!!That's just a guess but I may start to keep track.

 

[kweaver]

Richard - Kraig never passes up a chance to post those dang 125's. I like 122's better but everytime Kraig post one of those that ol John feller crys all about how much purttier they are than his'n.

 

[wmiller]

Glen,a couple things to remember about the rear(Cub) style pto. It stops when you step on the clutch,when I was growing up mowing the south 40 hayfield with the Farmall H,it didn't matter,but it sure was a nusiance mowing weeds around the farm yard,where you did alot of manuvering, machine plugging tended to occur. The other problem is the "flywheel effect". If you use a flail type mower or some other machine that does that,any time the transmission is in gear and the pto is in use anytime you step on the clutch the "flywheel effect" of the machine will tend to push the tractor,potentially very dangerous in an emergency stop situation. People who use old tractors with that type of equipment install "overrunning clutches " on the machines input shaft. Flail type mowers didnot exist when that pto system was developed and combines and balers usually had their own engine.

 

[rkrestel]

Just scored a free Cub 109 on sunday, i'm a hydro virgin and kinda lost. the last owner took it somewhere to get fixed and they said the hydro needed a clutch...would cost $300. he went out a bought a brand new modern Cub, and gave me the old one. My question is if it runs in neutral for a while and i go to move it to forward, it goes about 5 feet and stops, usually in about 10 seconds it will go again, sometimes 5 feet sometimes less, reverse doesnt move it at all but it wants to pull a little. any help would be appreciated if someone else has encountered this, thanks

 

[kweaver]

Ralf - You got a FREEBIE hydro with a bad clutch ? You ought to be ashamed of yourself. Give it back 'cause hydros have no clutch. (Don't take your stuff to that shop!)

It could be the linkage isn't adjusted right , hydro fluid low , hydro filter plugged or wrong type filter , wrong type of fluid (HYTRAN ONLY!!).
Hit the FAQ button overhead it has a wealth of info plus look for the other FAQ link there for more info.

Welcome to THE FORUM.

 

[rkrestel]

I gave the ... after the clutch statement cause i knew something was fishy, i figured that they just told him that and meybe they didn't know what the problem was. i don't take anything i own to a shop, i'll sell it before i pay someone to fix it. appreciate the help, i'll perform your suggestions and hope to solve it.

 

[kweaver]

Ralf - It could also be (as a wide shot) the pin in the coupler/shaft broke and occasionally galling enough to grip a little then slip again. I'd just about go with it having the wrong fluid (thick) or low fluid.

 

[pkeenan]

Good morning. I put in a set of replacement iso mounts on my 1450, I used the recomended NAPA parts (Moog k5252). I must have something messed up as the tractor vibrates more than it ever did. Can I still get the original mounts or should I look into the solid mounts that C Miller offers. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

[rkrestel]

Ken, as far as the shaft goes, i have the cover off between dash and fenders and shaft turns 100%, i only noticed one blade is missing off fan. I'll do fluid and filter today. Where can i get pictures of what the release/engage lever should look like (the release for the hydro, it's still attached to said cover, but nothing is attached to the lever it just has a roll pin in it, i dont understand what it's supposed to release/engage.

 

[bcorn]

Pat: Yes Cub dealers carry those ISO mounts at least mine had them.

Ok guys seeing I could not get anybody here to bite on a govenor problem "ol pops" figured it out himself. Having restored the 1000 thats with complete rebuild of the engine, metal work, and all the painting, I thought the putting everything back together would be easy.

It was to a point, except when I hooked up the throttle cable to the throttle body! When I got the cable installed I had to much tension on the govenor to start with. As I watched the workings of the throttle I noticed that as soon as I moved the throttle the spring started to stretch which caused the govenor to engaged all most imediately. Ok left just a hair bit of slop in the spring at idle and moving the throttle to fast which caused the spring to get tension on it and everything came into place.

I have the idle set at 1190 RPM and right now the fast throttle is running at 4125. Trying to figure out how to work the motor at full load without the mower deck on was an issue in itself. So I hooked the tractor to my older GMC truck and let it sit there and dig holes in the gravel while I got a reading both at idle and full throttle. The idle came in at 900 RPMs and full throttle at 3645. This is not and I repeat a safe way of doing this and do not recommend this action but when you have to do things yourself sometime I let caution go with the wind.

I hope this has helped somebody with the same type problem and please have a friend help you.

So I'll be gone for awhile have 2 tractor shows, and a local tractor pull to go to.

Pops

Anybody needs to know how to take a gas tank out of behind the seat of a 59 Chevy P/U and install a 16 gallon Summit racing tank between the back rails of a truck frame I 'do" have complete documentation of how I did that also!
See ya all in a couple weeks!!!!!!!!!