Archive through June 09, 2009

[mgonitzke]

Andy T.-

When you replaced the seals, did you completely disassemble the hydro pump, or did you just replace the ones you can replace without taking it apart? If you took it all the way apart, you should know what the charge pump is by now. (It's in the manual

)

If not, it should self-prime the first time you run the tractor again, assuming that you refilled the rearend after you put it all back together. If you're worried, you can always turn the input shaft CCW (as viewed from the front) a few times.

 

[aethompson]

Matt - Manual? Do they make those? I don't have a manual for it, I just dug in and tore it down. I completely disassembled it, the leaking seal was the one behind the control arm so it had to be torn down. When you say flipped 180 degrees, do you mean put the pump plunger fingers (unofficial term of course) in backward?

 

[klejeune]

A while back we were discussing little clamps on the PTO clutch lever to center the fiber button on the thrust button. While digging through some parts I got at a swap meet I found this:

I was digging for a mule drive pulley to replace this one:

I was mowing along with the 1450 and the engine bogged down and I shut it off and smoke started boiling out from under the motor. Oh man, my heart sank. Opened the hood and pulled the side panels off looking for something bad. Nothing looked bad. Okay I thought maybe the PTO bearing went out and locked up. Nope, seemed okay. Turned key switch to run and flipped the PTO switch and it clicked and I could roll the engine with it. Turned the PTO back off and started the engine. Ran fine. Flipped the PTO to see what it would do. Started to move the blades and then stopped. Ahhhh, the pulley locked up and fell off. Okay, so I go out and start digging through this pile for one that will work:

I let my wife know how much I saved by having "all that junk" back there too.

I thought I'd share this pic too...
Thanks Kraig!

 

[tteague]

The <font color="000000">I</font><font color="ff0000">H</font><font color="000000"> "bender" is back!!! lol

</font>

 

[dfrisk]

JERRY M. - Just kidding about running the V-ripper thru Your garden. Old farm Wife, Son & I lived on in Freeport, IL had a big garden. Land Lord tilled it every fall with his BIG articulated JD 4X4 & chisel plow, then in the spring He'd make a pass or two with his field finisher. Turned out it was almost cheaper than a tiller for His little green lawn mower.

Sounds like You have a real good system for building up the soil for Your garden.


TIMOTHY - Now WHERE's Kendell when We need him?!?!? Can't say as I've ever seen BENDER with a hat!

KEITH - How'd You talk KRAIG out of that pith helmet? Guess if it was IH or Allis Chalmers He'd have kept it.

 

[mgonitzke]

Andy T.-

I don't want to sound rude, but that was a dumb idea to take that apart with no manual. (Anybody got a link for him to Charlie's manual site? I never remember to bookmark it when someone posts it

) I hope for your sake that you put the swash plate back in correctly, because if you didn't, you'll have fast reverse and slow forward and you'll have to do it all again.

The charge pump is the pump on the front of the hydro trans that is held on with two bolts...the input shaft comes out of it. If you'd have used the manual, you'd have read this:

"IMPORTANT: Mark the charge pump assembly housing before disassembly, as it is possible to install the pump incorrectly resulting in low charge pressure."

It's not real obvious if it's on backwards or not. The later ones have a depression in the top of the casting for the charge pump that faces up, but I don't think any of the IH models had this. I could be wrong though....
I don't mean the "pump plunger fingers" (correct term is "slippers" attached to the "pistons"). I don't think you can put those in backwards.

As soon as somebody puts up the link for Charlie's manuals site, you should head on over there and download the service manual for your tractor

 

[rpalmer]

http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/

 

[dgallagher]

I have just about given up on the steering column on my 125. I think it is beyond help. I do have a column from a 129. Will that work? Thanks

 

[aschumacher]

Andy t. I didnt find any tractor manuals in Charlies list, but, look for the listings that say 'sunstrand' in it. Thay made the hydro tranney. If you(should) want a manual look at top for 'Binder Books' they can help you out.

 

[rpalmer]

David Gallagher,
Parts look up at the top of the page:
125= IH-401387-R91
129= IH-548085-R91

I just spent 30 seconds finding that info.

 

[bnolte]

Got about a ton of screened asphalt millings and patched some of the holes in the private road I live on which is capped with the same material. I used the Cub to compact the millings and make the road reasonably smooth again. They baked in the hot sun all afternoon, and hope they start to knit together, but about 4 or so, the rains came in torrents. I remembered that the garage door was open only after the storm hit, and went out later to clean up the mess. There was a low spot in the floor where I parked the 129, and attempted to start it. It seemed about to start, then I heard a metallic clinking noise, and was unable to continue.

I traced the problem to a broken spring that actuates the neutral interlock switch from the brake pedal. The good news is that my junker 1650 has one that is intact, the bad news is that it looks like it is riveted or pinned in. Any suggestions for removing it intact without taking half the tractor apart? Of course, I could bypass the switch, but that is cheating and is unsafe.

This spring lever appears to be intact, but it looks riveted in.

Its busted!

 

[rchristensen]

Andy T.

First check your charge pump to see if it is mounted correctly. You can verify that by looking down on the pump from the seat and there should be a flat spot on the right side just to the right of the bolt. The left side of the pump will be round by the bolt. Also there is a pin in the gear inside of the pump assembly, hopefully that did not drop out.

If that is correct you may have interchanged the pump and motor valve plates inside. They look almost the same but are different.

 

[jbliler]

Dennis, have seen those subsoilers at work. A 450 hp tractor can really sweat pulling one. A good use for a big bud if you could turn it around! Gets worse on a steep sidehill too!

 

[rchristensen]

Bruce N. That neutral interlock spring should just pop off the shaft. The pin should stay in the shaft. That is if somebody hasn't modified it.

 

[theaton]

Bruce N., the piece that contacts the switch, is held in place by the coiled roll pin and the cross shaft. The metal "strap" slips over the brake rockshaft. The one on my 128 broke in the shed(luckily), I found the broken piece. A little weld and I was back in business.
Just slide the good spring off the 1650 and on to the 129!

 

[rneubauer]

A few weeks ago I posted about a 1650 rockshaft that the left side and right side were misaligned. Diagnosis was that the spirol pin was busted on one of the lift arms. Purchased a replacement, pounded old one out and was surprised to find out it was still in one piece. Hit lift arm with RBH (REALLY BIG HAMMER) and aligned it with the other one. Put new roll pin in. Preliminary diagnosis is that the hole thru the rockshaft is all egged/wallowed out which allows the one lift arm to rotate about 25 degrees. Anyone disassembled one of these and found years of abuse have egged out the hole?

 

[digger]

Rob N.
Almost every QL I own was that way. My fix was a drill bit and a larger spirol pin.

 

[ncostello]

Dennis Frisk: Last week I talked about my 122 smoking after sitting for two years...but only during throttle down, then back up. Well...after switching to 15W40 and running for a few days (mowing)...the smoking has stopped completely. I must have had some "stuck" rings and perhaps the detergents did actually help the rings. My 782's KT17 Series II has almost 2000 hours on 15W40, but I had never ran it in the 122 since I owned it. Actually I never ran it much at all period. I run Mobil Delvac in my diesel pickups and tractors...so thats what I put in. Besides...it keeps sludge down and is certified for use in spark ignition engines as well. Anyhow thanks for your input as well.

 

[rneubauer]

Digger,

Thanks for the reply. Mowed the grass tonight, and the lift arms were out of alignment again. Got out the RBH and realigned them. I removed the float lockout pin, as I feel that the deck is being forced up when navigating uneven surfaces. Maybe allowing the deck to float more will keep the arms in alignment.

 

[wmiller]

Brian J
Actually I have both,a 126 and 147. Both are restored and I o'hauled the engines. I have used both to mow (a lot of off lawn mowing) and with the snowthrower. I much prefer the 147 with the snowthrower because if you hit an obstruction,like a raised sidewalk section, it will just stop,while the 126 the impact is much more severe and the 126 (with chains and weights) the wheels tend to try to spin and scratch the concrete. I snowblow in some pretty tight places and the hydrostat really increases manuverability. Even restored, my Cubs work for a living and I enjoy them both. Overhauling the engines really improved the performance of both of them.