• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

Archive through June 08, 2012

IH Cub Cadet Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

fcurrier

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 5, 2004
Messages
3,155
displayname
Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
bash.gif
bash.gif
bash.gif

239852.jpg
 
Frank...an unusual coincidence...I use Allen on a daily basis, but it too is my middle name. Gotta use John A. on all that legal stuff ya know. <font size="-2">Damn computers. </font> My Cub just says 'hey you' more gas!
 
Bill: That's the Model 14900 with the 10 yard dump cart. (Somebody has a red flag/filter for pics w/o yellow and white).
I saw this coming! It's all an experiment - I might leave the ruts there and see if rear ags will go through. Something tells me front ags wouldn't help a bit!
239855.jpg

Time now to fire up Fernando and tow Matthew out of there.
happy.gif
 
Frank-

OK, how were the ruts made to begin with. And what was the "experiment"? I bet that cub really sat down with you and let you know it. It looks to be at least a 6" drop for the rears. I'm assuming you also high-centered therefore needing a tow. I did that the other way when I plowed the garden with the 1650. I started on the outside and would cut both ways. When I got to the middle I high-centered lengthwise on the uncut strip with the plow still buried.
 
Hydro Harry recommended I check the hydro fan before I put the engine back into my 1650 and I did. Here's what I found:

239859.jpg


THE BLADES ARE GONE!!!!
censored.gif
censored.gif
censored.gif


Not only that, but the rear flange pinned to the hydro draft shaft is a bit wobbly here:

239860.jpg


I'll be shopping for a new fan (or a like-new one
happy.gif
).

Question is - how much wobble is allowable on the input shaft of the tranny from the flange, how do I know if the rag joints need replacing (they look intact to me) and it it possible the tranny on this 1650 is fried from no cooling fan?
 
I have a question, I dont see it covered in any of the faqs. My 147 with an IH tiller mounted ran fine last year (and the preceding several years as well). I use this one only for tilling so it gets serious use one month a year. This year I started it up and it will not move, forward or reverse. There is no sign of it pulling even a slight bit. The HiTran was a bit low so I topped it off but it made no difference. What could go wrong to cause this sitting over the winter??
 
Bill Jamison

If it was me I would take a pin punch and tap that pin out,(the one you are pointing at in the picture) It is a possible that the pin is sheared off and you wont know unless you try to remove it. A small bit of movement is normal I think. more than one of my tractors have some play .
 
Everybody still in the bed? We need a cub cadet alarm clock.
groupwave.gif


Frank,

Some nice Carlisle ags would get you out of those ruts. (hope I spelled that right)
 
Charles A.: From here it looks like either a sheared drive pin or somehow the nubs on the relief valves got pushed down and didn't come back up. Let us know what you find??
happy.gif
 
I am up too..thinking about heading out to retorque the head bolts on the k321
 
After my third cup of coffee this morning, I am going out to try to find an oil pan for my K301.

In my hunt, if I find one of those new Cub Cadet alarm clocks, I'll pick one up.
bash.gif
 
David - I ordered a new fan from the dealer today, should have it sometime next week - thanks!

Donald - I was looking at the parts breakdown at the tranny input shaft and they show what looks like a large single ball bearing with a self aligning bushing. Makes me wonder if this "play" is normal.
 
Bill J - hey glad to see it's going slow but sure on that 1650. I see Dave gave you the part number and price for the fan, but make sure you have the correct snap ring. It might come with the fan, I don't know. I do know it's a biggy - or thick one, and takes a hefty pair of snap ring pliers to get it in place. Service manual provides details on where to locate the fan and where to locate the clip on the fan. It would be nice if you cleaned and painted up the drive shaft. It will be hard to slide the fan into the correct position having the new paint thickness. I don't know if soap and water will be enough lubrication. I think I used a little oil. It won't dry out but the snap ring is so stiff/tight that it should still hold it in place. Just clean the oil off as best you can afterward and it should stay. I also agree with Little Donnie Tanner on replacing the roll pin where you have some play. Hopefully you won't find the pin sheared off, but more likely worn or cracked. I'll bet a new pin will tighten it right up. If you still have a very slight amount of play when you install the new pin then it's gonna have to be your call on replacing the coupler or maybe even drilling to an oversized pin. Now, on the rag joint, have a good look at it when you remove it. If it's torn or the holes are oval you probably should replace it. Other than that maybe someone else has better recommendation on when it needs replacing. As for the hydro pump burning out - it's unlikely even with your fan looking the way it does. I don't think I've actually heard anyone say they burnt or had a pump burn out on them. It's always the trunion, levers or linkage wear issues. Keep on keeping on, with the good work.

Charles E Anderson - I have to say there's a 99% chance that your relief valves are stuck in the down position. If I recall correct your 147 has that lever on the right side of the frame with a latch to hold it in the on (valves pressed down) position. If you left it in this position over the winter or for 11 months then your relief valves are probably stuck down as Frank suggests. You don't have a removable frame cover so you really have no access to them. Best suggestion is to move the tractor into an open area and run the engine maybe 20 minutes with the brake off, move the hydro lever back and forth a few times and see if they will just come back up on their own. Make sure you stay with the tractor doing this. Don't leave it on it's own with the brake off. I would even try just rolling and/or rocking the tractor back and forth (hopefully you don't have the tiller mounted so its at least a little easier to move). If one valve comes up you'll be able to drive one direction. If this happens you can make some quick starts and pull back to stop to try and jar the other valve to pop up. Some others on here may have additional suggestions - but if all this does not work then you'll have to split the tractor to get at the valves and remove them to see if you can get the pins to come up. There is no real technique to get them to come up even when you have the valves removed. They are basically sealed in the valve so you'll have to consider replacements, and if you do you might want to consider the newer style that have automatic releases when the tractor is shut off. Hope this helps.
 
Wayne: The ruts were made with Lucy (see profile). An attempt to drain that wet area. It's another wet Spring, here. If I say here that I'm going to put dual rears on one of the tractors and pull the lawn roller around, I'll have to do it, won't I?
happy.gif

Harry and Charles: If the 147 is like the 123 and 125 there's a plate on the rear under the seat and above the hitch that's bolted to the fenders with 4 bolts. Removing it lets you see the tops of the relief valves.
Harry, your words are as good as pictures.
happy.gif
 
Hey, guys.. Got a quart of IH red and a quart of IH white today at TSC.. I hate to steal Wyatt's idea- I give him full credit for my thoughts turning to this -but if I pick up the 102 tomorrow, I just might paint it that beautiful red.. Any objections, Wyatt? <font size="-2">Or anyone else?</font>

P.S. I know, I know.. The 109 torn halfway apart and the 126 not running atm, (needs a float bowl gasket and haven't ordered one yet) and I'm going to pick up another cub.. But, isn't that how it goes?}
 

Latest posts

Back
Top