Archive through June 08, 2009

[mgonitzke]

Bruce N.-

Get 2 O-rings to replace the packing. I'll have to look up the size when I get out in the garage later today. I think they're 1/8" ID and 1/4" OD.

 

[kide]

Richard:
As I said, it's been a long time...I've got a very small gear puller and IIRC, I flip the jaws and pull from the inside of the bearing... or maybe it was a homemade slide hammer with a hooked lip for popping them out..
Dennis:
IIRC, when we last had the discussion on this, the point was made to NOT use emery cloth OR steel wool because of the conductive properties. Also - on a 12 volt S/G Delco recommended undercutting the mica separators, which I used to do with a broken off piece of hacksaw blade, as I didn't have a lathe to turn the commutator or the milling type attachment to reslot the separators with. (although in the last couple of years I've picked up the Atlas/Craftsman 6x18 that had the attachments available)

.

 

[mdmyers]

Frank S,
I've been fighting this same problem on my 128. The gas stopped leaking after I took off the fuel bowl and cleaned out the sludge (thanks, Myron!), but it still stalled at full throttle. I noticed that the placement of the spark plug wire seemed to matter - took a closer look and found a worn spot. I hope to get a new cable this week & do some mowing this weekend...

 

[mgonitzke]

Frank S.-

If you haven't rebuilt the carb already, then you need to. Gas running out of the air filter usually means the needle and seat assembly is worn out. It might fix your other problems too. Time to pull the carb off and take it apart.

 

[jmuncie]

2B TILLER ISSUES--

I have a 2B tiller that I've mounted to a 123 with hydraulic lift. I just got it up and running a few weeks ago. The tractor and tiller both need a good bit of TLC, but I wanted get it running and play a little to make sure I like it before I sink too much time in to the project. I have an 8 hp BCS walk-behind and I expected the 2B to break new ground at least as well as the BCS and till deeper than the BCS in established garden areas. So far, I'm unimpressed.

First off, tiller hangs on the tractor with the left side about 1-1/4 higher than the right. I don't see any way to adjust this and nothing looks bent. Any ideas? Second, the tiller shakes badly from from side to side. I think this is aggravated by the fact that it's not hanging level and I'm not able to get the full width of the tiller in the ground on my first pass. I'm also having a lot of trouble maintaining a steady speed...Seems like if I slow it down enough to do a decent job tilling, it either stops moving completely or the tiller grabs and starts pushing the tractor.

What kind of performance should I expect from this combination? I'm wondering whether to rebuild the tractor and tiller completely next winter or sell it and move on. The tractor needs the engine, steering, and shift linkages rebuilt. The tiller's in pretty good shape except for the out-of-level problem.

Any thoughts/advice?

Thanks,
Jerry

 

[dtanner]

Hi guys. I need some info on the brakes on a 129. I took them all apart for paint and don`t know which way the arm goes to reinstall them. The adjustable threaded arms won`t pull the brakes on. do the armes face back or ahead when installed ? later Don T

 

[dtanner]

here is a picture of them.

 

[mgonitzke]

Don T.-

Is there anything left of the brake pads? They should be holding securely in that position...

 

[aaytay]

Don-
I'm not postive on this, but I think you may have the brake assemblies switched. You may need to swap sides there. Hopefully someone else will chime in.

Jerry M-
In my experience, Cub Cadet tillers do a GREAT job on previously tilled soil, but really get pounded when trying to work "virgin" soil. I've experienced the shaking and pushing ahead that you describe. The best method I've found is to feed the tiller very slowly and be prepared to reverse direction quickly. It may also help to take a few passes at it starting very shallow at first and then getting deeper with each successive pass.

You should be able to get a deeper till by lengthening the lift chains, but I'm not sure what to make about the unlevel condition you describe short of the lift chains being unequal length.

 

[mgonitzke]

Jerry/Art-

If the hydro linkage is loose, that's really hurting you too...My first tiller was on a 128, and that worked great. 1st low, put the tiller in the ground, ease off the clutch, and till away. My tiller worked great on a gear drive. I think the tillers have a tendency to push hydro tractors. I'll probably find out when I get my new tiller on my 782D.

It is supposed to be level. Have you verified that everything is assembled correctly? Are both clevis pins in the same holes where it attaches to the tractor?

 

[jmuncie]

My depth issue is because the tiller pushes the tractor instead of tilling if I try to go deeper. The chains are set long enough to go deeper. The hydro linkage is a little loose. I bought this 122 for the sole purpose of tilling. Now I wish I had bought a creeper box for my 126 instead. I've never been a fan of the hydros.

As for the out-of-level problem. It's 1-1/4" over the width of the tiller--not enough to be in the wrong hole on the mounting bracket. The chains have the same number of links, but I need to check again to make sure that one of the bolts isn't tightened down in the the link.

Thanks,
Jerry

 

[stanner]

Don T...

the arms should be facing slightly rearward... I think the diagnosis of swapped sides may be right... Here is my 107:

 

[fcurrier]

Don T.: Can you get them to look more like this?

 

[aaytay]

Scott T.-
Is that Cub doing a trick by standing on it's hind legs for a treat or something? LOL!

Frank-
What's the story behind the interesting battery location on that narrow frame?

 

[stanner]

Art,
the other end is hanging from an engine hoist from the day I brought it home, It was getting it's first bath since new....

here is the before pic:

 

[bnolte]

Matt,
Wasn't sure if it was an O-ring or something made from another material, but when I got it apart, I found a small, very worn O-ring. I also scoped it out for possible replacement of the petcock assembly with a fuel bowl, which I had off an old B&S engine, but the B&S fuel bowl assembly was too corroded up to be useful. I might decide to put a small fuel filter in line, or take the fuel bowl off of my old 102, but for now everything seems to be fine. While I had it apart, I decided it was time to repair the rubbery choke cable. I had cut the housing too short before, and left a long section of the wire unsupported. Did it right this time, and worked out the outer housing length before committing to cutting the new wire.

The thought crossed my mind to start doing the hydraulic lift conversion while I had the fuel tank off and part of the dash apart, but I decided to save that for another day, probably after mowing season. When I do it, I'm going to need to work out the kinks that I already have with the linkages, put in new gaskets, etc.

Got 2 other projects in the garage to finish up anyway. First is bleeding the clutch on my Honda Shadow, the second is to get some work done on the 102.

 

[achavez]

Hi,I'm new here and need some help. I just got a CC 105 and need to know how to adjust the carburetor on it. Thanks!

 

[bsouthwick]

I have a 1650. Someone nearby is selling a snow/dirt plow with the brackets that came off of a 149. Will this fit on my machine or do I need different brackets or more involved modifications - welding, etc. - to make this work for us?

Thanks for your help! So far between this discussion board and the faq I have gotten lots and lots of useful information and now have a running 1650 and soon will also be able to use a rototiller with it. (Thanks also go to my teen son and an older retired friend of his, who are actually doing all the work and understand what all the words and descriptions mean!)

Beth

 

[aschumacher]

Andy...go up on the screen and find the Freq Asked Questions...take a quick look at the first screen. Then at the top of that screen click on cubfaq.com and spend an afternoon checking out all the neat stuff there, 91 listings! After that, come on back if you still need a hand, plenty of members to help you.
P.S...welcome to the Forum
EDIT: One that will help is labeled 'why is my tractor/engine serging'

 

[snicklas]

Beth,

The front blade and undercarrage from a 149 will mount up to the 1650 no problem. Both are wideframe Cub Cadets and the mountings are exactally the same. I have used the attachments from Dad's 149 on my 1450 and there is no difference.

Scott