Archive through June 06, 2011

[dplogman]

Kraig, others- It's Dave back with the 122 Cub No release clutch. I still am having trouble with the clutch not releasing (grinds-won't go into gear). Cut the whole yard last night without shifting even once and I didn't crash. The rear pressure plate is free and not stuck, teaser spring is not broken.

I guess I simply dont understand how this pressure plate / clutch disc sandwich system works. I've got a cross section in front of me. It's not like any clutch arrangement I've ever seen. I've gently pryed on the machine screws on the back of the clutch drive plate, shaft doesnt seem frozen to the bushing on the back of the engine.

Should the front pressure plate be loose from the driving disc if the pedal is locked down? Guess that would be a place to start. the front plate seems pretty tight to the disc.

Thanks for your patience and advice. Dave

 

[teroberts]

I seem to have several spec number attached to the fan housing of my 105, k241. One number is on a sticker and the other is on an embossed plate. Which one is the correct number?
thanks,
tom

 

[mgonitzke]

David P.-

The friction disc should be able to wiggle around inside the pressure plates when the clutch is disengaged. Also, if the pilot bushing isn't lubed, or the engine isn't bolted in straight, the driveshaft will bind in the pilot bushing and keep spinning. With the engine off, you can put it in neutral and lock the clutch/brake down. You should be able to easily spin the driveshaft by hand. Dumb question, have you adjusted the clutch as per the manual?

 

[kmcconaughey]

David P., when you first mentioned your clutch problem your description sounded like the clutch plates were stuck together, what you describe now is that while the clutch plates are likely releasing, the pilot bushing is sticking causing the drive shaft to still spin as Matt described. Here's that cut away drawing again this time with some added info:

 

[dplogman]

Matt / Kraig- Thanks for the notes.

The rear plate is loose but I think the front plate is tight. Have to pull engine to lube that bearing, right?

I think I adjusted the clutch years ago, I've just been cutting with it all these years. This year (first time out of the shed for the season) it was really stuck. Seemed to work fine all last summer. I often had to "trick" it into shifting smoothly into 2nd by first going to Reverse. Seemed to stop the motion to allow a smooth shift into 2. It's never been this bad. Would you suggest tightening up that adjustment nut a little and trying it out. I'd rather not pull the engine out dress and lube the tip of that shaft. but I'm starting to think that is in the cards. If the engine is in there crooked, how do you get it aligned? Thanks!! Dave

 

[mgonitzke]

David P.-

You don't have to pull the engine completely out, you can just unbolt it and slide it forward a bit. The engine shouldn't be crooked unless the frame is twisted/bent or something, but what I typically do is keep the clutch disengaged while bolting the engine down, and make sure that the driveshaft rotates freely as I'm tightening the bolts. If it doesn't turn freely, I wiggle the engine around with all of the bolts loose and find a place where it does turn freely.

 

[dfrisk]

DAVID P. - Yes, the clutch plate closest to the engine is pinned solidly to the drive shaft. Only the rear most plate with the slots in the hub moves when you depress the pedal and the throw-out lever pulls the throw-out bearing back and releases the tension from the big pressure spring AND the teaser spring.

The frition disc should move between the two pressure plates when the clutch/brake pedal is locked down. Like KRAIG said, adjust the clutch and the brake both per the manual. The adjustments of both do not effect the other, but depending on how they're adjusted does effect the operation of the tractor. You don;t want the brake solidly applied before the clutch disengages. The tough little 4-1/2 inch dry disc clutch in these tractors is ideticle to a normal car/truck/tractor clutch except the big pressure spring is coaxial with the driveshaft and not integral with the pressure plate.

TOM R. - What do you actually need the spec number for? Reason I ask is that it's almost impossible to say which spec number is correct for an engine that's 40+ yrs old. WAY too many engines have been swapped, cannibalized for parts, and modified. There's enough interchangability between all spec number K241's that the number really isn't necessay in my opinion.

My guess, never having seen your engine is that someone replaced the blower housing that was damaged from a later vintage replacement engine with the sticker with a blower housing from an old engine with the riveted on plate and removed and reapplied the sticker from the damaged blower housing. But that's a guess. Until you start getting into things like replacing crankshafts which are "NLA" by the way, unless you use a Magnum series crank, just make sure you specify it's a "Cub Cadet Spec. engine" and/or get your parts from one of our sponsors.

 

[dplogman]

Dennis , Matt- OK, first I'll do the adjustment. Do I just need to obtain the 3/16" free travel on the pedal, or the .050" between the clutch release lever and the clutch release bearing. guess jockeying the engine around wouldn't be as involved as lifting the whole thing out. So sliding it all the way forward I can get enough access to clean and lube that shaft? Dave

 

[wshytle]

This may be a good question for Aatay or Hydro Harry. A fellow brought over a 169 yesterday for me to look at and to get a couple of parts. I noticed the serial tag was on the frame down by the brake pedal like I've seen on several quietlines. I wrote down the last part of the serial number which is 5(I think)14467. The first number (following the U) had been a little smashed but it appeared to be a 5. My records show this as a June, 1974 production tractor which could be correct but all of my 1x9 tractors have the serial plate on the lower left of the rearend. I guess my question is did they put the tag on 169s on the frame in '74? I told him there is a chance the frame had been changed at some point but now I'm just not sure. He said he had been watching this tractor sitting in some bushes for over two years then stopped one day and got it for a song. It's a little rough but the engine is tight with no smoke. I've already started hounding him about me buying it.

Anyone with the knowledge will be appreciated.

 

[wshytle]

I just checked Hydro Harrys profile and see that his 169 has the serial plate by the brake pedal. I guess this was when they went to that placement? 1974?