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Archive through June 05, 2014
- Thread starter jbaker
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
Hydro, if you look in the lower left corner of the Order Form you'll see it listed. An Allis Chalmers C with a planter and cultivator. They only got a measly $291.00 for it!
Here's three screen captures from an old home movie of me riding shotgun with my dad on the Allis Chalmers C, circa 1966 or '67.
Jeff, yes indeed!
Jeff, yes indeed!
William S.
It's amazing what the search function brings up on just about any question.
CLICK HERE
Same with the manuals section,
http://www.ccmanuals.info/optional.html
CLICK HERE
It's amazing what the search function brings up on just about any question.
CLICK HERE
Same with the manuals section,
http://www.ccmanuals.info/optional.html
CLICK HERE
J
jclazar
Guest
Hydro Harry- Guess I'm not to sell IH parts on the open board. { about my identity, lets just say I don't mean to set snares for people } I guess I got carried away, and once again this week, I apologize. So, next time keep this under your hat computer,... you should not make an offer like that, or if you do, I'll know how to understand it. {I'm very punctual, and I go to work early enough to change two flat tires along the way and still be on time}. Most of the time, having manners and politeness is all you need to have, not saying you were not any of those. Anyhow, my light switch don't have the writing on the metal knob like Kraig's, though my yellow wire and fuse holder are in a lot better condition. No harm intended Kraig, yours is in excellent condition too. 1969? It would be 7 years before I would come along, lol!
Been thinking.....I have most of the noise makers under control on my International 1450 Cub Cadet. Has anyone tried to use something better than the long panel spring? I was looking at the engagement rod on my narrow frame, all-gear International 72 Cub Cadet. It has an engagement rod with a turn buckle in the middle used to adjust the air gap between the type A mechanical power take off unit's thrust button and the fiber button located on the fiber button lever {or so I'm trying to say}. I plan to try a similar set up in place of the panel spring, maybe?
The hood on my 1450 has a few dings and is bent in some corners, and I still need new rag joints, which I feel might help with unwanted vibration. Will doubling up on the rag joints provide less mechanical vibration? Anyways, I was too young to ever hear a bran new Quite Line to make a fair comparison to the noise level my 1450 has at the moment.
Yes, the seat pan will tend to vibrate and make noise when not seated on the Quiet Line garden tractor, or at least in my case..... I have no rattle at low idle, a nominal decibel level at W.O.T .
With the pot stirring, time to get on the model 72, and on to Charlie's FAQ's !
Been thinking.....I have most of the noise makers under control on my International 1450 Cub Cadet. Has anyone tried to use something better than the long panel spring? I was looking at the engagement rod on my narrow frame, all-gear International 72 Cub Cadet. It has an engagement rod with a turn buckle in the middle used to adjust the air gap between the type A mechanical power take off unit's thrust button and the fiber button located on the fiber button lever {or so I'm trying to say}. I plan to try a similar set up in place of the panel spring, maybe?
The hood on my 1450 has a few dings and is bent in some corners, and I still need new rag joints, which I feel might help with unwanted vibration. Will doubling up on the rag joints provide less mechanical vibration? Anyways, I was too young to ever hear a bran new Quite Line to make a fair comparison to the noise level my 1450 has at the moment.
Yes, the seat pan will tend to vibrate and make noise when not seated on the Quiet Line garden tractor, or at least in my case..... I have no rattle at low idle, a nominal decibel level at W.O.T .
With the pot stirring, time to get on the model 72, and on to Charlie's FAQ's !
John,
There's a fine line to keeping the side panel tight and bustin' off the ears. I wouldn't go with the "turnbuckle" thing, I've seen it done before and it usually doesn't end up well. I have atruck brake retun spring in mine and it has been woring well for years. A little bit of movement there can be a better thing than hard core tight.
There's a fine line to keeping the side panel tight and bustin' off the ears. I wouldn't go with the "turnbuckle" thing, I've seen it done before and it usually doesn't end up well. I have atruck brake retun spring in mine and it has been woring well for years. A little bit of movement there can be a better thing than hard core tight.
John L.
NO ONE! Sells or buys off the main forum board!
NO ONE! Sells or buys off the main forum board!
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,468
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Sorry Charlie - it was my fault for encouraging John to do that. I know the rules and shouldn't have done it.
John L - I hope I didn't get you in trouble by coaxin' ya along there. I know we can't buy/sell on the board here. I was just trying to say I think you got a deal.
Now, on your 1450 spring between the 2 side panels. On my 1st 1450 I didn't know for about 10 years that I didn't have the correct spring, but the one I had did work well. I don't think it was quite a truck brake spring as Tom mentions. It was basically just a small spring about 1/2" in diameter and 4" long. One end had a piece of stiff wire with a hook on each end (this wire is like you use to hold insulation up between the floor joists so it doesn't bend easily). It was cut off about 6" long if I recall. It had just enough tension to pull the side panels up against the dash pedestal on and grill housing and maybe just a little flex in the eye of the side panel pulling them together. You can cut the stiff wire off until you seem to get enough tension on the spring and the panels are held nice and snug. The panels shouldn't rattle once you have enough tension on them without bending the ears. Make sure it's not your muffler box that is rattling, which is notorious for rattles.
As for the seat support tray/pan, you need 2 good rubbers on it where it sets down on the fenders. You can still get the little rubber inserts that slip into the 2 holes but there was a later design using rectangular rubber blocks that works much better. Not sure if they were used on the 82 series or later units by CCC. If you have the late series 1450 the rectangular blocks were the same as IH used on the hood support rest mounted on the dash pedestal. If you can get pics of what you have and post them I can tell what you have. But even if you have good rubbers (which ever style) the seat will sometimes squeak or rattle because of wear on the hinge pins. The tray tends to slide over against the bracket that the pin fits in and vibrate making a squeak. Not awhole lot you can do there except maybe adjust he brackets a little and maybe put a very little/tiny washer on the pin to keep a little space between it and the hole in the bracket it slips in.
John L - I hope I didn't get you in trouble by coaxin' ya along there. I know we can't buy/sell on the board here. I was just trying to say I think you got a deal.
Now, on your 1450 spring between the 2 side panels. On my 1st 1450 I didn't know for about 10 years that I didn't have the correct spring, but the one I had did work well. I don't think it was quite a truck brake spring as Tom mentions. It was basically just a small spring about 1/2" in diameter and 4" long. One end had a piece of stiff wire with a hook on each end (this wire is like you use to hold insulation up between the floor joists so it doesn't bend easily). It was cut off about 6" long if I recall. It had just enough tension to pull the side panels up against the dash pedestal on and grill housing and maybe just a little flex in the eye of the side panel pulling them together. You can cut the stiff wire off until you seem to get enough tension on the spring and the panels are held nice and snug. The panels shouldn't rattle once you have enough tension on them without bending the ears. Make sure it's not your muffler box that is rattling, which is notorious for rattles.
As for the seat support tray/pan, you need 2 good rubbers on it where it sets down on the fenders. You can still get the little rubber inserts that slip into the 2 holes but there was a later design using rectangular rubber blocks that works much better. Not sure if they were used on the 82 series or later units by CCC. If you have the late series 1450 the rectangular blocks were the same as IH used on the hood support rest mounted on the dash pedestal. If you can get pics of what you have and post them I can tell what you have. But even if you have good rubbers (which ever style) the seat will sometimes squeak or rattle because of wear on the hinge pins. The tray tends to slide over against the bracket that the pin fits in and vibrate making a squeak. Not awhole lot you can do there except maybe adjust he brackets a little and maybe put a very little/tiny washer on the pin to keep a little space between it and the hole in the bracket it slips in.
Jeremiah, here are what the two cable clamps look like for your 122. The top one is for the throttle, the bottom one would be for the choke.
jchamberlin
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2010
- Messages
- 1,842
- Location
- Farmville, North Carolina
- displayname
- Jeremiah Chamberlin
Kraig: Thank you so much. The choke clamp is the same as the one on my 149. However, my next question is the same as Chris's, except I want the choke clamp.
Jeremiah, I would think that any dealer that sells Kohler parts could get one of the clips for the choke cable.
Chris, I would expect that the throttle clamps could be purchased from a dealer that sells Kohler parts or a cough, cough, John Deere dealer, part number: 2-M43100 they come in packs of 2. I bought these for use on my Original as it uses them for both the throttle and choke cables and I wanted spares.
Chris, I would expect that the throttle clamps could be purchased from a dealer that sells Kohler parts or a cough, cough, John Deere dealer, part number: 2-M43100 they come in packs of 2. I bought these for use on my Original as it uses them for both the throttle and choke cables and I wanted spares.
I should mention the reason I went with the JD cable clamps is because my brother is the parts manager at a local JD dealer. Can you say discount? Sure you can. BTW, I've known the two brothers that own the dealership since 1985 and I used to ride snowmobiles with them and some of their employees so yes, even the owners give me the discount.
Any auto parts store should have the springy bottom one in that picture. They are the same as heater control cable clamps on lots of cars. If Ya can't find one, send me an SASE and I'll give Ya one.
Better yet, just e-mail me your address....
Better yet, just e-mail me your address....
Shultzie, read my tag line...
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,468
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Kraig, Oh Great One Keeper of the Photos - "Lets be careful out there", especially when you're talking discount at one of THOSE places. I remember being in a real pinch one time for a Kohler carb kit. My local CC dealer where it cost about $12 was out of stock. I made a quick stop at a WH dealer and after wasting 20 minutes with him trying to look up a similar engine I left. I could hardly bring myself to stop a little farther down the road, but did at a JD dealer. Didn't take him long to find the kit but when he told me it was $19.60 I almost died. I told him I didn't need the JD version. A straight up Kohler kit would be fine without the JD logo. He told me that's all he carried. So Kraig, just a tidbit of advice when you're dealing with the green guys - try to avoid paying for the logo on the package.
Hydro, most of the parts I get there are actual Kohler parts. I assure you I get very good pricing.
HARRY - I use a LOT of JD parts on my 982. JD used a LOT of Onan engines, the parts guy at the local JD dealer doesn't laugh at me when I ask for parts for a B48G Onan. And the oil filters I used to pay over $20 for at my C/IH dealer are $7.50 plus tax. Yes, the C/IH dealer had cheaper filters that would work, but they were longer, couldn't run the side panel with that filter installed.
