Archive through June 05, 2011

[rotoole]

Thanks, I had my concerns. I am guessing it is easy to find a original key switch? Thanks for the reply

 

[rotoole]

I answered my own question about the on/off key switch for my original. It appears CC specialties
sell them for $32. Not sure I cannot find on used somewhere cheap?

 

[jchamberlin]

Justin: For what its worth, Harry has a point. According to Parts Lookup there is not a ball bearing on the 149, but there is on the 1450. The part is listed with the following note:

Begin Parts Lookup Entry
PN 723-3022 Ball Bearing 5/8" Steel (Used only with shaft IH-61125-C4)
End Parts Lookup Entry

 

[dfrisk]

GARY S. - Grease is almost as touchy a subject as motor oil on most forums. We had a discussion here about a year ago. I used to use Mystic JT-6 grease years ago. And I had frequent spindle bearing issues. I switched to Lubriplate #1201 or 1202 hi-temp white lithium grease and I had one spindle I had to replace on my 50C deck last year due to the housing wearing around the bearing, but the bearing was still tight. My decks all seem to pull easier too.

I have started using Mobil 1 synthetic grease for wheel bearings. I used the Mystic grease there too years ago and had problems. The shop that rebuilt my Dana 44 frt axle in my '78 F150 got me started using Lubriplate.

 

[hydroharry]

Justin F - there just has to be something mis-aligned. I can't see the pump being off. You did remove it to install a new cork gasket but since it only fits one way it would seem the pump itself cannot be the issue. Maybe you even recall when you placed the new gasket on the pump it had a hole for the alignment pin. If you pump is not leaking then you must have aligned that pin correctly. From there you have the rag joint that would allow for a little mis-alignment. Since it sounds like you did have the rearend removed or split from the tractor something could be mis-aligned there. I would check all the mounting bolts - I believe there are only 6 - but I don't see how any could be mis-aligned. From here you need to go to the engine. If your 4 engine mounting bolts are good and tight then there must be something wrong with the "cup" bolted to the crankshaft. I don't know what it could be but it does have the pulley on it. With the drive shaft and coupler removed you should be able to view the pulley from the side with the engine running and tell if it's turning in an aligned position. I suspect there must be something wrong in this area. Something with the pulley cup, the way it's mounted to the crankshaft = maybe it's cracked in half since it's only aluminum = or maybe the bolt holes are cracked where the steel coupler gets mounted to it. Something just has to be wrong in this area.

The 149 is a wonderful tractor and one of the best built by IH. I'm hoping you'll find the problem. I wouldn't buy all the used parts just yet - but I would be looking for the aluminum cup and the steel coupler, and a new solid pin.
Good luck with it.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die

 

[rodsmith]

Where did spring run off too?

 

[wshytle]

Justin-

I've never heard of or seen a ball used in a 1x9 driveline. I also don't see how a ball, or absense of could be causing your problem. Have you checked the timing of the engine? I'd time it again by static timing. Matt G. has a good, easy to follow write up in his site. The torque these engines have could snap a bears leg. The coupler at the engine needs to be a fairly tight fit as well. Any play will add to the "snapability" by allowing it to hammer the dowel. The end of the driveshaft at the pump has a 5/16" dowel protruding into the coupler there for centering/holding purposes and this dowel wears as the flex disc wears. Also check to see if all four engine mounting bolts are there and secure.

This is just my .02 on the matter. Good luck with it.

 

[mgonitzke]

Justin F.-

If you are going to spend a bunch of money to try to fix it, I would upgrade to the QL/82 series flex couplings on both ends. This will eliminate your problem. You'll need everything new from front to back, but you can make the driveshaft yourself if you have a drill press.

You'll need:

(1) #39: 903-0204, ~$20
(4) #40: 722-3000, ~$14 each
(2) #41: 748-3001, ~$22 each
(1) #42: 919-3027, ~$50-60(OUCH...that part used to be $35 a couple years ago...) It might have gone NLA...I used the parts lookup for all of this and it said 'insufficient inventory to order this part' or something along those lines for the rear coupler

Like I mentioned previously, you'll need to make your own custom-length driveshaft. You'll also need some bolts and other hardware to put it all together.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Kirk L., good eye. Charlie's "70" also has a Quick Attach latch on the frame further evidence that it's actually a 72. Oh and it also has a wide frame front axle and spindles...

 

[jfrederick]

For the ball thing, I agree….I do not believe there was one, I just wanted to be sure. I also agree how could the absence of that cause the issue. As I said that coil pin looked original, the arm looked original and never removed…

Harry, yes the pin was aligned properly with the gasket on the hydro/rear-end, I was told by the guy I bought the gasket from to watch for that. You mention alignment. I have looked and re-looked many times at everything. My cadet is pretty tight in that fashion, no oblong holes, no loose fasteners. So to align the rear end….I really cannot do anything. I also remember there not being hardly any play when re-aligning the pump to reinstall it. With the engine bolts, those 4 bolts take me a while to put in because there is not a bit of wear on the bolts, or the holes in the frame the bolts go through. If you have all the bolts in, but not tight yet…you cannot move that engine at all, it is very snug. I will have to re-mount the engine to fire it up to check that aluminum pulley cup.

Matt, thank you for the idea….I will for sure keep that in mind if it comes down to the last option, but as said before if it is a different problem then we will be wrecking rag joints.

I will do some more checking. My boss mentioned we could hook dial indicators to the engine & hydro and see how far out of line it could be.

On another note too. Before I took this thing apart…I turned over the engine and watched the driveshaft (had the hydro cover removed) and that thing was wobbly as heck….almost like it had been welded wrong from the manufacturer.

As always thanks again for the input, much appreciated!!

 

[mgonitzke]

A bent driveshaft will do it...that's likely the problem.

 

[dfrisk]

MATT G. - You all done wih school now? I see your posting here a lot more.

To keep this On topic, I may MOW the lawn this afternoon or tomorrow, with a Cub Cadet!

 

[nbextermueller]

Ok, I have searched and searched... the no avail.

Kraig, do you have a photo of this:

Narrow frame sleave hitch, the connection of the bar that runs through the frame and connects to the lift arm.
A friend picked up a full sleeve hitch from a 127 and we can't figure out how to connect it to the lift arm... (and the parts lookup doesn't understand a model 100!)

 

[kmcconaughey]

Nic, the 1x6/7 series requires an addition part to install the rear lift.

Here's the part:

This might be good reading: 1x6/7 3 Point Installation

Under edit: I misread your post.

Never mind the part I posted sounds like you are beyond that. In any case the install manual should help...

 

[nhasson]

Justin F, I had the same problem with my 149. The front hub was worn badly but kept the 1/4" bolt the previous owner had in there. I fixed the hub, used the correct pin and then started having problems. I found 3 out of 4 engine mounts holes in the bottom of the pan were stripped out allowing engine movement/vibration. I put heli-coil inserts in, lock-tited the heck out of them and snugged them up. Then to eliminate any future problems, I went with the 2 rag joint setup as in the 1450's. Found someone parting their tractor out on ePay and picked everything up for under $25. I did replace the rag joints with new and have not had one problem since....best upgrade I have done on my 149 yet. Definitely recommended. And no, the 149 didn't have any balls..(in the driveshaft)...so to speak. Nick

 

[bperkins]

Justin,

Ten or more years ago I broke a drive pin and replaced it with a carter key that fit in the hole. Believe it or not that key is still in place, and has not even been bent. I am not recommending that you do as I have done, but it would allow you to trouble shoot the issue, and/or get her back home.

 

[bmwitmer]

i just recently recieved my pto clutch pulley and an additional basket to house it in. Everything is correct how it should be, except the pto clutch has the bearing in it that should be on the engine. I already also have the one on the engine and can't get either of them off. i have removed all the possible screws on the bearing which is attached to the engine. What else can i do??

 

[nbextermueller]

Great! thanks Kraig!

we didn't realize that the front clip bolted into the slot in the lift handle. we were looking for 2 holes. Can't wait to to get it on tonight.

Brandon: I usually just get a bigger 3 jaw plier... but that's probably not recommended.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Brandon, you need to remove the bearing from the PTO. There should be 2 setscrews in each of the 3 setscrew holes that are in the PTO housing, for a total of 6 setscrews. Make sure all six are out. If you look at the PTO from the bearing side you should be able to see if any are still in place. Look for the point(s) of the cone tip setscrews. Once all the setscrews are out the bearing should come out, might take some doing to remove it though as it is a tight fit into the PTO.

 

[nbextermueller]

Ok Kraig, last request for this month...

we also have a lift assit too. any photos of a 100 with a lift assist on it. It wasn't in the manual section.

Thanks again for all the great help!!